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<*>                                                                        <*>
<*>                             Presenting...                              <*>
<*>                                                                        <*>
<*>                Toxic Waste's guide to getting even                     <*>
<*>                      ...explosively that is                            <*>
<*>                                                                        <*>
<*>               compiled by Toxic Waste with help from                   <*>
<*>                          Doctor Destructo                              <*>
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<*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*><*>

  Ever wanted to get back at that commie geek who crashed your board or that
looze who poisons you message base with his latest WAREZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!1!111!!!.
Well, here's a little something that might be useful...
  This article will show you, in some detail, how to build and successfully use
some pretty destructive bombs. The specific use is strictly up to you...

Part I - Explosive Formulas and Household Equivalents.

Most anarchists, like myself, have trouble finding those essential chemicals. Here's a list that might help...                                 


Name                                    Equivalent
----                                    ----------
Acetic Acid.............................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..........................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulfate..............Alum
Aluminum Sulfate........................Alum
Ammonium Hydroxide......................Ammonia
Carbon Carbonate........................Chalk
Carbon Tetrachloride....................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride....................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide...........................Lime
Calcium Sulfate.........................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid...........................Seltzer
Ethylene Dichloride.....................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide............................Iron Rust
Glucose.................................Corn Syrup
Graphite................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid.......................Muriatic Acid (Pools)
Hydrogen Peroxide.......................Peroxide
Lead Acetate............................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tetroxide..........................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate......................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................Epsom Salts
Naphthalene.............................Mothballs
Phenol..................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate...................Cream of Tartar
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............Chrome Alum
Potassium Nitrate.......................Saltpeter
Potassium Permanganate..................Snake Bite Kit Fluid
Sodium Dioxide..........................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate......................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate...........................Borax
Sodium Carbonate........................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride.........................Salt
Sodium Hrdroxide........................Lye
Sodium Silicate.........................Water Glass
Sodium Sulfate..........................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate......................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid...........................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride...........................Tinner's Fluid

Part II - Bombs from A-Z

[(A)]  Atomic Bomb. Probably the most desperate. Use with extreme care.

Materials:

1- 20 kilo's of weapons grade plutonium
2- TNT or C4
3- Wire
4- Blasting Caps (20-30)
5- Timing Device
6- Radio controlled detonater (toy RC systems will do)
7- Container

Construction:
Note: since you will be working with plutonium, wear adequate protection from         the radioactive material.

1- Take the ball of plutonium and place it on a support so you can get at it       from all sides. Next, take golf-ball size chunks of TNT or C4 and press them
   on to the ball of plutonium in an even pattern all around. Place a blasting     cap in each charge.
2- Run the wires from the charges to the detonator, making sure that the           charges stay in place on the plutonium. The detonator can be made from an
   ordinary clock and car battery. Set the detonator to the time you wish to
   blow. Note to radio control users: make sure you set the transmitter to a 
   quiet frequency, or else the bomb might go off in your lap!
3- Take the bomb to the geek's house (make sure none of YOUR pals are around)
   Get at least 5-10 miles away.

[(B)] Bottle bomb

Materials:

1- 16oz Coke Bottle
2- Matches (shit loads)
3- Fuse

Construction:

1- Go to your local 7-11, buy a coke, drink it, and wash and dry out the           interior of the bottle.
2- Go to Walgreen's (24 hour) and but about 10-20 of their boxes of matches.
   Each box is 'bout $.50 and sometimes 3/$1.00. 1000 matches per box.
3- Rip open the boxes, get a good pair of wire cutters and cut off the match       heads. Store them CAREFULLY in a metal can. 
4- Get a big mixing bowl and fill it with water. Pour all the match heads into     water. After a day or two, the red stuff will go into solution while the
   paper will float on top. Scoop off the paper and place the bowl somewhere
   where it can evaporate.
5- After evaporation, the pure match stuff will be left. Scrape out and stuff      into the bottle.
6- Insert the fuse, light, and run like shit!

Makes nice holes in houses.

[(C)] Can bomb

Materials:

1- Coke can (or beer, whatever)
2- M80 or other firecracker
3- Acid or Glycerine
4- Straw

Construction:

The bottom of the can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts, bolts, and/or rocks. The fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in the straw. After making sure that no children are nearby, the acid or glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you 3-5 minutes. It will have a shattering effect on a passerby (who, if lucky, will be the target).

                 
           / /
          / /     <=- chemical ignitor
         / /
 ------------------
 |     / /        |
 |   ==========   |
 |   |        |   |
 |   |        |   |
 |   |        |   |  <=- Mofo firecracker
 |   |        |   | 
 |   |        |   |
 |   ==========   | 
 |     (**^^      |
 |     (*^$^&$    |  <=- nuts & bolts
 |    (*&^&&**(   |
 ------------------ 

Primarily used for milling large crowds

<Chemical bottle bomb>

Materials:

1- Sulphuric Acid
2- Gasoline
3- Potassium Chlorate
4- Sugar
5- Glass bottle w/ stopper (1 quart size)
6- Small bottle or jar w/ lid
7- rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newspaper)
8- String or rubber bands

Construction:

Since the sulphuric acid must be concentrated, boil it until dense white fumes are given off. Container used should be of enamelware or oven glass.

Caution: Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with large quantities of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.

Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool at room temperature. Pour gasoline into the large one quart bottle until it is approximately 2/3 full. Slowly add the concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline until the bottle  is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place the stopper on the bottle. Thoroughly wash the outside of the bottle with clear water.

Caution: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use.

Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands. Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup of sugar in one cup of boiling water. Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle, and cap tightly. The cooled solution should be approximately 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more liquid than this, pour off the excess before using.

Caution: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle

How to use: Shake the small bottle to mix the contents and pour onto the cloth or paper around the large bottle. The bottle can be used wet or after the sloution has dried; however, when dry, the sugar-potassium chlorate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should be handled accordingly. Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target), the fuel will ignite.

[(D)] Dust Bomb

An intiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.

Materials:

1- A flat can, 3 inches in diameter and 1-1/2 inches high. A 6-1/2 tuna can
   serves the purpose quite well.
2- Blasting cap
3- Explosive - Note: Plastic explosives are better than cast ones
4- Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can, or powder)
5- Large nail, 4 inches long
6- Wooden rod 1/4 inch diameter
7- Flour, gasoline and powder, or chipped aluminum

Construction:
  
Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the tuna can 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accomodate the blasting cap. Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the center of the can. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 inch from the top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod. Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod. The intiator is now ready for use.

How to use:

This particular unit works quite well to intiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2 gallon of gasoline, or two pounds of flake painter's aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic-coated paper milk cartons, plastic, or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the intiator and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the type of cap employed. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic foot enclosure with ease. For larger enclosures, use proportionately larger intiators and charges.

<Draino Bomb>

I am not too sure on how this works, but I am pretty sure you can make a really powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with clorox. I think that these two compounds will spontaniously explode so don't just pour them together. What you do is put the draino in a cardboard box and put in a bucket of clorox. They will eat the box causing them to mix. You may have to test to determine the exact time it will take to eat the box. You don't want to be caught on a fiery explosion.

[(F)] Flashlight bomb

The flashlight bomb has become a popular method of revenge because of its ease in manufacture and of its impossibility to detect. What you do is get a flashlight of any size, shape, or creed, and the batteries that go with it. Now, decide what kind of explosive to us...

[1] Mercuric Chloride - Gas bomb
[2] Pure Sodium+Water - Flame bomb
[3] Sulfuric Nitrate  - Acid bomb
[4] Gunpowder (TNT)   - BOOOOOOOOM!

Now, taking the material for the type of bomb you would like to make, proceed to put rocks, bb's, glass, pellets, etc... in the bottom of the hollowed out batteries, unless you are making a flame bomb, in which case read on. Then line a magnesium strip along the side of the flashlight appearing on top of the flashlight so you may light it. Next, make sure you have plenty of the explosive you chose in the batteries. Lightly pack it in and for God's sake, don't hit it! Lastly, secure the top, leaving room to insert the magnesium strip. It should look like this...

      ____________________
      \                  /
       \                /
        \              /
         --------------
         |            |    
         |  BBBMMBBB  |     [B]attery
         |  BBBMMBBB  |     [M]agnesium
         |  BBBMMBBB  |     Also inside should be the ammo and the explosive
         |  BBBMMBBB  |
         |  BBBBBBBB  |
         |            |
         |____________|

Now for the flame bomb. The sodium should be on top, and the water in a babyfood jar. The sodium used is not table salt! You won't need the magnesium strip because all that is necessary to ingite it is a good, firm hit against something hard, like the geek's window.

[(J)] Jug bomb

This one is short and sweet. Get ahold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline, and cap the top. Turn the jug around to coat the inside surfaces and evaporate. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate. The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling against a solid object. When this sucker goes off, it's the same as a half stick of dynamite.

[(K)] Kitchen explosives (plastique)

This explosive is a potassium chlorate exlosive. This and other explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main ingredient in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds used by French, German, and other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to make. By relatively safe, I mean just that! Don't screw around with this shit, either make it or don't. I'd hate to hear of some phreak buying it because he was fucking with some chemicals and they blew in his face. Take special care in the following steps...

One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur, sulfides, and pictric acid. The presence of these compounds results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possible decompose explosively while in storage. One should never store home made exlosives, just make enough for what you need at the time. You never know how stable it is until it blows. One method of obtaining sulfur, sulfide free potassium chlorate is to get it from ordinary bleach. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source (hot-plate, stove, etc.), a battery hydrometer, a large Pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until the hydrometer has a reading of 1.3 (if battery hydrometer is used, it should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees celsius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to remove all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool, dry place. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. Use a #3 cap to detonate. These block charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.

[(L)] Letter bomb

Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making sure they will detonate properly and that it is not obvious it is a bomb. Mixtures: about 75% aluminum with 25% iron powder is best. This is a light version of thermite. Since it is in an enclosed space (the envelope, as described below), mix the above well. The idea is this: iron can burn, at a very high temperature, but it needs a little help. This is what the aluminum is for. Aluminum burns at a relatively low temperature, so it is used as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite the aluminum, which then burns the oron, at a suitable temperature. Since this is going off in an enclosed, it will burn much hotter and slower and with more violence than a normal mix. I advise you to play with this for a while, learning your mixture. Now, get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered. Separate the layers. In the inner layer goes the wonderful mixture, one you are satisfied with. Keep this section separate, but it might be handy to top it off with some magnesium. The outer layer can be either magnesium, for a flash bomb, or possibly a material of your own choice. The fuse is the difficult part. We can make a fuse from another set of chemicals: iodine crystals and ammonium hydroxide (liquid form). Mix these together, in equal amounts. Use a heavy amount of iodine if pressed for time. These form a new crystalline structure, about an inch long. These are highly volatile and I advise keeping them protected. They have about the impact power of am M100 per teaspoon. Put this in a protective cardboard lining, and put them at the top of the envelope. Rig this so it puts pressure on the crystals when the package is opened, but not from just squeezing the envelope. This is tricky, and I can't explain here. Seal this up, and you have a working letter bomb. By the way, since the bulk of letter bombs are easily recognizable, they rarely make it past the post office. I frown upon the use of letter bombs as a means of getting even because you never know who it is going to detonate around, or that it will even be them. There are simpler ways are getting even, so take one of them. It is also a federal offence to make and send one. Proceed at your own risk.

[(P)] Pipe bombs

Yes, the part you were all waiting for... pipe bombs. There are many forms of pipe bombs used today. This file will cover these...

[1] C02 canisters
[2] "pipe" bombs
[3] PVC pipe bombs
[4] Steel cased pipe bombs

in addition to: timers, various igniting techniques, and launching.

C02 Canisters
--- ---------

C

"Pipe" Bombs
------ -----

Ok, here's how to make your standard pipe bomb. Go to your local junk yard or anywhere for that matter and get a piece of pipe (any size). Thread each end (on outside). Cap one end. Drill a hole in the middle of the pipe the size of your fuse. Fill with one of the ingredients listed earlier. OIL the open end of the pipe and cap it VERY CAREFULLY. If you don't oil the ends it could spark. Your bomb is now fully operational and ready for implantation in the geek's house or car. Stick a LONG fuse in the hole, light, and, you guessed it, RUN!

PVC Pipe Bombs
--- ---- -----

PVC pipes are those ones made of plastic that are glued together. For these you should follow the same procedure as for pipe bombs, but instead of screwing the ends on, you simply glue them with PVC type glue. This is much safer then using metal 'cuz it doesn't spark. Plus, the glue is so strong that the ends won't blow off (which sometimes happens). If you are trying to be especially destructive, put small pieces of metal in with the gunpowder.

Steel Casings
----- -------

Ok, this is by far the most deadly of the pipe bombs. Take a steel rod of any thickness (probably at least 1/2") and bore out the center by drilling in from one end. Don't drill all the way through, though. Then drill a hole in the side for the fuse. Follow the same method for capping the open end as is done with regular pipe bombs. The nice thing about steel is its strength. The thicker you make the walls of the bomb, the bigger the bang. Size helps, also. There's only one problem with it though - the cap at one end tends to blow off if its too powerful, or if the cap holds, then all the fuel shoots through the fuse hole. There is a solution to each. To keep the cap on, make a clamp out of steel that wraps around the bomb from end to end. This should hold it in place. For the fuse hole, drill a very tiny hole. Then use an ignitor (preferably home made) with insulated wires. Then take another thin steel casing and fit the bomb inside it and run the leads out one end. Use your standard ignition switch for any ignitor and set it off. It would probably be safer to use a timer...

Timers:

The best form of timer that I have found so far is the simple egg timer. All you have to do is wire a connection around the egg timer so that when the timer reaches "0", the two wire leads are touching. Fairly simple.

Igniting:

Basically there are two ways to ignite your bomb. The first is by fuse. The second is by electricity. The best way to ignite a bomb by electricity is to use the Estes ignitors used commonly for model rockets. These work quite well. Of course, for the method I outlined for the steel bomb, you would have to use insulated wires because they would be touching in such a small hole.

Launching:

Well, it's always fun to be able to watch your bomb blow up without risking shrapnel, especially at night. So, assuming your bomb isn't too heavy, you can launch it in an Estes rocket. The best one's for these are the CO2's. What you do is scrape the ejection charge out of your rocket engine and tape the nozzle of the CO2 to the back of your rocket engine. Then wipe the outside of them both with a damp cloth (I failed to do this last New Year and the rocket blew up on the pad). Then slide the whole contraption into your rocket. You'll probably have to do this from the front of the rocket because the CO2 is slightly larger than the rocket engine. I recommend glueing these in. Then launch it. For the other bombs, though, I would use separate fuses: one for the bomb and an electrical one for the rocket motor. Cut a hole in the side of the rocket for the bomb fuse. Put a very long fuse in. Then have someone light it and run. When the flame on the fuse gets close to the rocket, ignite the engines with your ignitor switch. The only reason you should be in a safe spot is if the ignitor doesn't work.

[(R)] Rocket bomb

First you must have some experience in model rocketry. Go to your hobby shop and buy a "D" or "E" powered rocket. These will probably cost over 20$ for a good one with plywood fins. If you thought a "D" was the largest available motor, you are wrong. They now go up to an "M" which is 1000$ a shot. Anyway, assemble the rocket with epoxy for maximum durability in flight. Fill the nose cone with flash powder, run a fuse into it, and seal the opening in the nose cone with model cement. Make sure the fuse is long enough to touch the motor's ejection charge. Ignite and launch this baby with an "E" motor at about a 45 degree angle towards the jerk's house. It may take several tries to hit.

[(S)] Shotgun Shell bomb

Materials:

1- Shotgun shell
2- Cork
3- Roofing nail
4- Glue
5- Medium to heavy paper (construction paper, paper bags, etc.)

Take the cork and drill a hole for the roofing nail to fit in, from the smaller end to the larger end. Glue the cork to the firing end with the hole over the primer. Cut some paper and make a tube that fits the shell, about three times longer than the shell. Tape or glue the tube to the shell. Crimp the rest of the tube and flatten it out. Tape the end. You might want to stick a piece of clothes hanger wire to rig the bomb for a slingshot. The bomb needs to come straight down so it will be sure to detonate. Strapping tape can be used to strap everything securely.

<Smoke Bomb>  

Get some potassium nitrate, mix it 50% with sugar, and put it in a tin can with the top sawed off. Mix it well then throw a lighted match in it while it's still flaring. Get back as it will get very hot and make a lot a smoke. It will melt the can to the ground. Fills a city block with white, dense smoke. Just imagine what it will do in ENCLOSED areas.

<Soda Bomb>

Materials:

1- Granulated pool chlorine (at least 75% calcium hypochlorite)
2- Sugar
3- Water
4- 2-liter soda bottle

Take a quarter of chlorine and place it an empty and DRY 2-liter bottle. Put in an equal quantity of sugar. Add enough water to make the mixture soupy. Put the cap on and throw! It splatters all kinds of blinding and noxious chemicals when it goes off. As the sugar and chlorine dissolve in the water, they will react with each other. The bomb is as loud as an M80. The bomb will take anywhere from 30 seconds to 5 minutes to go off so be careful if it doesn't go off the first time. Leave it there until the next day. Keep trying until you get an optimum sugar-chlorine content for the maximum boom.

<Sulfur Bomb>

Here's an easy one to make. Go to your local Walgreen's and buy about 20 boxes of their matches. Each box has about 1000 matches and they go for $.50 each. Next cut off all of the match heads and tightly pack them in a 2 liter coke bottle. Careful! This may take the rest of your natural life, but who cares. Take an M80 type wick (or Thermalite) and run it into the bottle. Give yourself about 30 seconds to get away (a LONG wick). Place wherever and light. Will not explode outright but will sure flame up.

[(T)] Tennis Bomb

As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the world. In tennis you use these hollow round green balls known as Tennis balls. What people do not know is that thses wonderful little balls can be used for other things (no, not to jack off with). They can be used as a handy explosive or noisemaker. You will need the following:

[1] Tennis ball (new if possible)
[2] Knife
[3] Box of matches (the kind that strike on anything)
[4] tape (strong)

First you take the knife and cut a small round hole in the tennis ball. Slowly fill the ball with match heads until it is full of them. Make sure you don't drop the ball because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Tape the hole up very well so that it is air tight. Make a few of these so that when one day a geek is walking by, you get a big bang or attention. It's not too fun to be where the bomb lands. To make the explosion more powerful, mix in some gunpowder.

[(U)] Urine Bomb

Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive munition. It is easy to prepare from nitric acid and urine. It can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials:

1- Nitric acid (90% concentration, 1.48 specific gravity)
2- Urine
3- 2 one gallon heat and acid resistant containers (glass, clay, etc.)
4- Filtering material
5- Aluminum powder (optional)
6- Heat source
7- Measuring containers (cup and spoon)
8- Water
9- Tape
10- Blasting cap
11- Steel pipe and end cap(s)

Note: Prepare mixture just before use

Boil a large quantity of urine (10 cups) to approximately 1/10 its volume (1 cup) in one of the containers over the heat source. Filter the urine into the other container to remove impurities (this is gonna smell like piss heaven). Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the filtered urine, and let mixture stand for one hour.

Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it
         away with a large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.

Filter mixture again. Urea nitate crystals will collect on the paper. Wash the urea nitrate by pouring water over it. Next, allow crystals to dry for 16 hours. Note: Drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used. Spoon the urea nitrate crystals into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the crystals. Note: This explosive can be made more effective by mixing in aluminum powder in the ratio of 4:1. Confining the open end of the container will also add to the effectiveness of the explosive.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------snd that's it. Look for more files on such diverse things as TnT, C4, and nitroglycerine. Remember, exert caution at all times when making these bombs and don't come crying to me if your arm gets blown off...

Toxic Waste <>

