
           PYRO1.TXT        Preparation of Contact Explosives

This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious 
stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you 
kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your 
body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't
treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.                 
                                                                              
Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read
'em and MEMORIZE 'em!!  At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules 
that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about 
the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
before starting anything.                                                      
                                                                               
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable, 
and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear 
understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of 
ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided. 
Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:           
                                                                               
         1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at 
            most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for 
            bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
            every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
                                                                              
         2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale 
            pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of 
            water before weighing the next ingredient.                         
                                                                               
         3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the 
            workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open 
            containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage 
            or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and 
            replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.        
                                                                               
         4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER 
            TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding 
            another ingredient.                                                
                                                                               
         5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable 
            structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should 
            also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass 
            also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an 
            accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the 
            top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some 
            mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in 
            a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. 
            In all cases, point the open end of the container away from 
            yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any 
            stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid 
            sparks or static.                                                 
                                                                               
            Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on 
            a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them 
            across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.  
                                                                               
         6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the 
            material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the 
            contents down.                                                    
                                                                               
         7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire 
            hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be 
            stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an 
            accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, 
            they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably 
            locked away.                                                       
                                                                               
         8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly 
            cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber 
            or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture 
            caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the 
            friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any 
            procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.                             
                                                                               
         9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. 
            Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure 
            lenses and frames are not flammable.                               
                                                                               
        10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust 
            form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. 
            They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.                
                                                                               
        11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.                    
                                                                               
        12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.                                
                                                                               
        13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.          
                                                                               
        14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.                   
                                                                               
        15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they 
            produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot 
            lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode 
            dust floating in the air.                                          
                                                                               
        16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one. 
                                                                               
        17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, 
            hose, etc.)                                                       
                                                                               
        18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or 
            put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle 
            than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. 
            This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have 
            been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, 
            please do not use metal in any circumstance.                       
                                                                               
        19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. 
            Some information will be included in each file, but look for 
            whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once 
            thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.   
                                                                               
        20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't 
            forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.                            
                                                                               
        21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a 
            half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload 
            or reuse any dud.                                                 
                                                                               
        22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are 
            doing and leave until it settles.                                  
                                                                               
        23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.                 
                                                                               
        24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, 
            Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't 
            drop them, or even handle them roughly.                            
                                                                               
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one 
example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the 
good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got 
out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the 
green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man 
got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor 
we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these 
chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable 
of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take 
this stuff lightly.                                                            
                                                                              

The contact explosives we will be describing use only a few chemicals. Some do 
need extra caution to keep from causing trouble.
                                                                               
Iodine Crystals                                                                
                                                                               
Though most people don't realize it, Iodine is not a brown liquid, but a 
steel-grey solid. The tincture of iodine you buy at the drugstore actually 
contains just a tiny bit of iodine dissolved in a jarful of inexpensive 
alcohol, and resold at a huge mark up. We'll be using iodine in the crystalline 
form. On contact with your skin, it will produce a dark stain that won't wash 
off with soap and water. We'll talk about removing these stains later. If it 
gets hot, it vaporizes into a purple cloud, that smells like the chlorine in a 
swimming pool. This cloud is dangerous to inhale, since it will condense in 
your lungs, and is corrosive. Since we won't need to heat this stuff, it is not 
a problem, but you should make sure that you don't let any iodine crystals 
spill onto a hot surface. If you don't touch it and keep it away from your 
face, you shouldn't have any troubles.                                         
                                                                               
Ammonium Hydroxide                                                             
                                                                               
This is just good old household ammonia. Be sure to get the clear kind. The 
sudsy stuff won't be too useful. It is made from ammonia gas dissolved in 
water, and every time you open the bottle, it loses some of its strength, so be 
sure to use fresh stuff. We need it to be as strong as possible. Some of the 
formulas given here use lab grade concentrated ammonium hydroxide. It is much 
stronger than the supermarket kind, and is very unkind to skin or especially 
the eyes. It is a good idea to wear eye protection with even the supermarket 
grade. Though we don't usually worry about this when using household ammonia 
for cleaning, we usually dilute it for that. Here we'll be using it straight 
out of the bottle, and it is much more corrosive in that form. Never use this 
material if you don't have real good ventilation, as the ammonia vapors can be 
overpowering.
                                                                               
Potassium Iodide                                                               
                                                                               
This is a reasonably safe chemical. You get Potassium ions in some of the fruit 
you eat, and Iodide ions (usually as Sodium Iodide) are added to the table salt 
you buy at the store. So, while you don't directly eat this chemical, you do 
eat the components that make it up. Don't be scared of this stuff.

                                                                               
Sodium Thiosulfate                                                             
                                                                               
Otherwise known as photographic hypo. When dissolved in water, this will remove 
the iodine stains left by touching iodine crystals, and exploding contact 
explosive. Not particularly nasty stuff, but make sure to wash it off after 
cleaning yourself with it.                                                     
                                                                               
                           General Information

This is a powerful and highly sensitive explosive. A dust sized particle will 
make a sharp crack or popping sound. A piece the size of a pencil lead will 
produce an explosion as loud as any of the largest firecrackers or cherry 
bombs.  It cannot be exploded by any means when wet, and therefore can be 
handled and applied with safety. When dry, it will explode with the touch of a 
feather, or a breath of air.

The strength of the ammonia water you use will have a direct effect on the 
strength of the final product. If you use supermarket ammonia, the explosive 
will work, but not as spectacularly as if you use a 15% or higher (10 to 15 
molar) solution. The stronger it is, the better. You'll also need filter paper, 
and a funnel. A properly folded coffee filter will do nicely if you don't have 
the filter paper. If you're not sure how to fold filter paper, check an 
elementary chemistry textbook.

                          Methods of Preparation

1.) Granular Explosive. This is the easiest kind, and the only kind that will 
work reasonably well with supermarket ammonia. Crush enough iodine crystals to 
make a pile of powder equal to the volume of a pencil eraser. Do not grind into 
a fine powder. Put about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of strong ammonia water 
into a small container with the iodine, and seal it for about 5 to 10 minutes, 
shaking frequently. While the mixture is reacting, get your filter paper ready. 
While it is best to consult a book that shows how to do this, you take the 
circle of filter paper, fold it in half, fold it again at right angles to the 
first fold, and then open it to form a cone. Open or close it as needed to make 
it conform to the angle of the funnel, and moisten it a little to make it stick 
in place. Place the funnel over a container that will catch the waste liquid.
Let the mixture settle long enough for the sediment to settle, and pour off as 
much of the clear liquid as possible before filtering the sediment. Pour the 
remaining liquid and sediment into the filter. The sediment (and the filter 
paper covered with it!!!) is your explosive. The small amount you have made 
will go a lot farther than you realize. Particularly if you used good strong 
ammonia. Place the explosive in an airtight leakproof pill bottle. As this 
explosive is unstable by nature, fresh amounts give better results than stale 
ones that have been sitting around for a day or so. Best results are obtained 
with small fresh batches. But as you'll see, there are a few tricks you can do 
with this material that do require it to sit for a day or more.

The explosive should be stored and applied while wet.

2.) Paint type explosive. This will use up a lot of iodine crystals. Make up a 
strong tincture of iodine using about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of rubbing 
alcohol, denatured alcohol, or wood alcohol.  Wood alcohol is preferable. Add 
iodine crystals and shake thoroughly until no more will dissolve.  Pour the 
liquid into a fruit jar. Add the ammonium hydroxide and stir the mixture until 
the mixture is a chocolate brown and shows a little of the original color of 
the iodine. The amount of ammonia necessary will depend on its strength. An 
equal volume of ammonia is usually sufficient for a 15% or higher solution. The 
solution should be filtered at once, and shouldn't ever wait more than 10 or 15 
minutes, because it starts to dissolve again.

The explosive again should be stored and applied while wet. This material is 
chemically the same as the granular explosive, but because it was precipitated 
from a solution, it is much more finely divided, and the reaction happens 
almost simultaneously, so you can get it out before it all vanishes back into 
the solution.

3.) Paint type #2. Dissolve 1 gram of potassium iodide in about 90cc of 
18%-22% ammonium hydroxide. Add 4 grams of pulverized iodine. A deep black 
sediment should start forming. Let stand, and stir frequently for five minutes.
Then, filter as usual. While the potassium iodide is not an integral part of 
the chemical reaction, the dissolved potassium iodide will allow the iodine 
crystals in turn to dissolve, and its common ion effect will cause less iodine 
crystals to be wasted. Since the iodine is by far the most expensive 
ingredient, you'll save money in the long run by using it.

                       Care in Handling And Storage

Because this material is so unstable it deteriorates quickly. Don't make any 
more than you need to use in the next 24 hours. If you can't use it all 
immediately, the container you keep it in should be recapped tightly after use 
and the mouth wiped clean. The explosive can cause dark stain damage to things 
as rugs, clothing, chair seats, wallpaper, and light or clear plastics. A 
strong solution of sodium thiosulfate is effective for removing stains from 
hands and clothing before they set. Never leave the container of explosive in 
direct sunlight for more than a few minutes, as it will weaken the strength. Do 
NOT attempt to make a large explosion as it is dangerous and can cause 
deafness.  All equipment used should be thoroughly washed and the used filter 
paper flushed down the toilet. Under no circumstances attempt to handle the 
dried material which is extremely explosive and hazardous. If you can avoid 
storing the material in a container at all, there will be no chance that a 
loose stopper will let the material dry out and become a potential bomb. Tiny 
bits of this can be great fun, but it has to be handled with care.

                                 Application

Although largely a scientific curiosity, this explosive finds itself well 
suited for practical jokes. It may easily be painted on the bottom side of 
light switches, sprinkled on floors, painted in keyholes, pencil sharpeners, 
doorknobs and in hundreds of other unsuspected places. It is also ideal for 
catching locker thieves and desk prowlers. It will leave a dark stain on his 
hands when it explodes, and only you will know how to remove it.

                              Reaction Equations

                                    Ammonium
          Ammonium      Ammonium    Nitrogen 
Iodine   Hydroxide       Iodide    Tri Iodide  Water

3I     +   5NH OH   ---> 3NH I  +   NH NI    +  5H O
  2           4             4         3  3        2

The theoretical yield of explosive from pure iodine is 54.1% by weight. The 
remainder of the iodine may be recovered for reuse from the ammonium iodide 
waste product by evaporating the waste liquid and treating with chlorine if a 
chemistry lab is available. The contact explosive is Ammonium Nitrogen 
Tri-Iodide, which explodes into iodine, nitrogen, and ammonia.

 Ammonium
 Nitrigen
Tri-Iodide     Iodine  Nitrogen Ammonia
          
2NH NI    --->  3I   +    N    +  2NH
   3  3           2        2         3

                      Some Clever Uses For This Material

1.) Contact Explosive Torpedos. Get some gelatin capsules, the kind pills are 
made of. Fill the small half with uncooked dry tapioca until it is half full. 
Then place a wet blob of contact explosive about 4 times the size of a straight 
pin head on top of it. Either the granular or paint type explosive will work. 
The capsule is then filled the rest of the way up with tapioca until, when the 
capsule is put together, the grains of tapioca are packed tightly, and none are 
loose. If this is not done properly, the torpedos could go off prematurely, and 
the joke would be on you. The torpedos are then moistened at the joints to seal 
them and stored until the next day. They are not sensitive enough until the 
next day and too sensitive the day after, so plan your activities accordingly. 
These torpedos are the most fiendish devices made. You can lay one on top of a 
door, where it will roll off when the door is opened, and it will explode on 
contact with the floor. If you toss one some distance away it will appear as if 
someone else was responsible for the explosion. These torpedos are ideal as 
booby traps or for pulling practical jokes with. They may be carried in a small 
box filled with cotton until needed. Just treat the box gently, and all will be 
well.                                                                          

2.Contact Explosive Booby Traps. Prepare a small amount of contact explosive. 
Cut strips of newspaper 1 1/2 inches wide and 1 foot long. Cut a piece of 
string 1 foot long. Put a small amount of wet contact explosive on the strip of 
paper 1 inch from the end. Double the string. Now pull one end of the string 
back until there is a double loop in the string about 1 inch long. Do not tie. 
Lay this double loop across the wet contact explosive and tightly roll the 
paper and glue the end. Put away for a few days until thoroughly dry. When dry, 
pull the ends of the string and the booby trap will explode. The strings, when 
pulled, rub against the dry contact explosive, and make it explode.


                           Getting The Materials

There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail order the 
materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over 21 and 
won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here. Note that 
the people who run these supply houses know what Iodine Crystals and Ammonium 
Hydroxide can do when mixed together, and if you order both from the same 
place, or in the same order, it may arouse some suspicion. 

Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Science for the 
current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Not all sell 
every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you can break the 
orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses are used to selling 
to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ounce lots, while others 
prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell their wares in 1 or 5 pound 
jugs. Split up your orders according to the quantities of each item you think 
you will be needing. An ounce of Iodine Crystals will cost three or four 
dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a 
long way. If you had to buy that by the pound, you might just want to forget 
the whole thing.


  
---> PYRO2.TXT  Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives <--

                                                                              
We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite 
dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.


Sodium Azide - NaN                                                      
                  3                                                     
This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it 
gently.                                                                        
                                                                               
Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )                                                  
                    3 2                                                      
This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will 
absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints 
and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in 
your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless 
with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one 
afternoon.         
                                                                               
Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO                                                       
                     4  3                                                      
Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large 
quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this 
material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it 
decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use 
it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off 
with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.                 
                                                                               
Potassium Nitrate - KNO
                       3                                                       
Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals. 
It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is, 
when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture 
burn.

Potassium   Potassium
 Nitrate     Nitrite   Oxygen

 2KNO   --->  2KNO    +  O
     3            2       2



Potassium Chlorate - KClO
                         3                                                     
A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only 
yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic 
mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn 
more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be 
useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like. 
Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium 
Chlorate is also poisonous.

Potassium     Potassium
 Chlorate      Chloride   Oxygen

  2KClO   --->   2KCl   +   3O
       3                      2
                                                                               

Aluminum Dust

Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a 
solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can 
seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any 
clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an 
open flame.
                                                                               
Zinc Dust                                                                      
                                                                               
Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still 
worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.

Lampblack                                                                      
                                                                               
This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other 
manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures 
than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they 
stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you 
should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using 
this.                                                                          
                                                                               
Sulfur                                                                         
                                                                               
A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy 
this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these 
will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.                 
                                                                               
Potassium Permanganate                                                         
                                                                               
An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here. 
Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less 
effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just 
the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine. 
If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up 
with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be 
thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!                                       
                                                                               
Gum Arabic                                                                     
                                                                               
A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful 
for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.       
                                                                               
Sodium Peroxide                                                                
                                                                               
A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it 
touch your skin.                                                               
                                                                               
Glycerine                                                                      
                                                                               
A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get 
burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.
                                                                               
Iodine Crystals                                                                
                                                                               
Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses 
poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches 
and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and 
notice the odor, you should leave the area.                                    
                                                                               


                                Touch Paper                                    
                                                                               
This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is 
ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by 
soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated 
solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have 
dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up 
to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a 
small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary 
paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite 
gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else.                       
                                                                               
Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to 
make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the 
fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained 
from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere. 


                           Self Igniting Mixtures                              
                                                                               
Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an 
asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall 
onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then 
flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is 
oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated. 
Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to 
catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off 
some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE 
MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I 
know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done. 
Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn.                                     
                                                                               
This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of 
poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine 
crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound 
and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into 
flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is
very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off 
by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately 
before you plan to use it.                                                     
                                                                               
Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium 
peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep 
Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your 
skin, for example.)                                                            
                                                                               
Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these 
SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of 
water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the 
quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc.
Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this 
mixture.                                                                       
                                                                               
                                                                               
                           Percussion Explosives                               
                                                                               
This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting 
possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing 
Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT 
more sensitive than the ones shown here.                                       

                                                                               
Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be 
ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any 
pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one 
gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a 
loud report.                                                                   
                                                                               
Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above,
                                                                               
                Potassium Chlorate 6
                Lampblack          4
                Sulfur             1                                           
                                                                               
Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only.



                             Lead Azide  Pb(N )
                                             3 2

Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and 
others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in 
open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny 
dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The 
same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In 
larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it 
off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already 
mentioned. It is very easy to make.                                            
                                                                               
Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not 
to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about 
3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it 
to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead 
Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while 
stirring, until no more Lead  Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use 
it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you 
have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You 
need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms.
                                                                               
The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water. 
It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this 
way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it 
in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of 
an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the 
mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the 
shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged 
between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed 
the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make 
the filter paper explosive. 
                                                                               
Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a 
couple of grams at one time.                                            

            Reaction Equations                             
                                                                               
Lead        Sodium        Lead     Sodium
Nitrate      Azide       Azide    Nitrate

Pb(NO )   +  2NaN   ---> Pb(N )  + 2NaNO
     3 2         3           3 2        3

Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the 
water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and 
this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff. 
Dump it out.                                                                   

To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of 
touch paper in the following shape



-----------------------------
!                            !
!                            !
!                             ---------------
!                                            !
!                             ---------------
!                            !
!                            !
-----------------------------

Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and 
the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet 
Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry 
thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the 
very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will 
produce a fairly loud explosion.


                          A Lead Azide Booby Trap                              
                                                                               
Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A 
couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece 
depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the 
center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z" 
should be about one inch long.


-------------------------------------.
                             .
                   .
           .
       --------------------------------------------------

                  Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z

Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it 
unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely 
together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2 
tries to show what this will look like. 
 

-------------//////////////////-----------------

                  Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly                        
                                                                               
Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The 
Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut 
out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted 
portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two 
inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure 
3.                                                                             
                                                                               
          -------------------------
          !                       !
----------!                       !-------------------
          !                       !
          -------------------------
                                                                               
                  Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap                           
                                                                               
You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the 
Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by 
heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in 
the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be 
attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation 
that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much 
Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting 
soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope, 
and set it off from a distance.                                               
                                                                               
The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead 
Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get 
set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so 
store these separately and keep them padded well.                              
                                                                               
                                                                               
                          Getting The Chemicals                                
                                                                               
As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab 
supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when 
mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates, 
nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind, 
and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply 
houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the 
things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the 
multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs 
to cover your tracks. DO it!




=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-  HOW TO MAKE HOME EXPLOSIVES  -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-  Complied by: The Outlaw   =-=-=-=  Received from: The Beta Pirate  -=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

      Files in this File
 ------------------------------
 T 081 IMPROVISED MUNITIONS
 T 021 PIPE BOMBS
 T 008 SOFTDRINK BOMBS
 T 012 HOW TO MAKE A STINK BOMB
 T 014 HOW TO MAKE TNT
 T 007 SPLATTER BOMB
 T 008 PRYO FUN
 T 016 CHEM CLASS...HEH HEH


(>View: SPLATTER BOMB
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ \
            WEEKLY EXPLOSIVE              \     __     __   _  ____ __
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+    \   /_  /\ /_//\///\ // /_ /\
           HOW TO MAKE A MINE               \ /    \// \/  // /// /_ /_/
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+     /  ___    __ __  _  _     __
          CREATED AND TYPED BY             /    //\  /_// / /  / \\  <__
             THE MAD BOMBER               /    / \/ /_//_/  \_ \_/ \_ __>
                  AND                    /
               THE ARCHER               /         By WHITE CHINA
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
  Ok, here is a simple, but effective mines to do on your enemy:

1. Get a pie tin.
2. Put some kind of explosive powder on the bottom of it.
3. Put a hole near the very bottom, and stick a model rocket igniter in it,
   so it touches the powder.
4. Next, put a round piece of cardboard over the powder.
5. Put a layer of BB's or Buckshot on top of the cardboard.
6. Finally, cover the pie tin with a piece of aluminum foil.

HERE'S A DRAWING(KINDA):

\------------------------------/ <-FOIL
 \oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo/ <-BB'S
  \_________________________/<-CARDBOARD
   \***********************/<-EXPLOSIVE
    \_____________________== <-IGNITER


Hook two wires to the igniter and run the wire back to safety
When somebody get near to it, touch the two wires to a 9-volt
battery, and... BOOM... BB'S fly everywhere! Possibly (probably)
getting where it hurts the most.........

*Be sure you are a good distance away

  THE PHREAK SHOW.....(303) 979-7992

    ==> UPLOADED BY THE RAT <==


(>READ: PRYO FUN
    _________________________________
   [                                 ]
   [         HOME EXPLOSIVES         ]
   [                                 ]
   [           FROM: INGY            ]
   [        <THE COMMANDERS>         ]
   [_________________________________]


  P.S.  DON'T KILL YOURSELF...

.......................................

        ->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<-
          ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^


1)  MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA

2)  WAIT OVERNIGHT

3)  POUR OFF THE LIQUID

4)  DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CONCRETE)

5)  THROW SOMETHING AT IT!

          ->SMOKE BOMBS<-
            ^^^^^ ^^^^^


1)  MIX:     3 PARTS SUGAR
         ---------------------
          6 PARTS SALTPETER

2)  PUT IN TIN CAN, ONTO LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER)

3)  LET GEL & HARDEN

4)  PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE.

5)  LIGHT IT & RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK...


      ->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<-
        ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^

1)  MIX:  7 PARTS POTASIUM CHLORIDE
         ---------------------------
              1 PART VASELINE

2)  TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE.


         ->CAR BOMB<-
           ^^^ ^^^^

1)  PUT LIQUID DRAINO INTO A PILL BOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON
    A PRESCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK)

2)  CLOSE THE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK.

3)  WAIT 5 MIN.

4)  RUN


    ->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES<-
      ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^

1)  MIX:   2 PARTS VASELINE
          ------------------
            1 PART GASOLINE

2)  IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE.


(>View: CHEM CLASS...HEH HEH

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=->   WELCOME TO THE DR. MAD  <-=-=
-=-=->      CHEMISTRY CLASS      <-=-=
-=-=-> EACH WEEK I WILL POST NEW <-=-=
-=-=-> FORMULAS AND INSTRUCTIONS <-=-=
-=-=-> ON TERRORIST DEVICES AND  <-=-=
-=-=->         EXPLOSIVES        <-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=->  FORMATTED FOR 80 COLUMNS <-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=->      THE AUTHOR TAKES     <-=-=
-=-=->       ABSOLUTELY NO       <-=-=
-=-=->   RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE  <-=-=
-=-=->    USE OF THIS MATERIAL   <-=-=
-=-=->    IT IS ALL CONSIDERED   <-=-=
-=-=->    EXTREMELY DANGEROUS    <-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-> READ ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE<-=-=
-=-=->           STARTING        <-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


MATERIALS: CALCIUM CARBIDE, A TIN COKE CAN, RUBBER CEMENT, WATER, MEDIUM
           SIZED TEST TUBE THAT WILL FIT COMFORTABLY WITHIN THE TIN CAN, A
           CORK WIDER THAN THE MOUTHPIECE OF THE TIN CAN AND A KNIFE

LOCATION OF CONSTRUCTION: OUTDOORS

SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS: DON'T LET ANY HUMIDITY OF WATER CONTACT THE CALCIUM
                     CARBIDE


THIS WEEK WE'LL START WITH AN UPGRADED VERSION OF THE CARBIDE BOMB


WELL A CARBIDE BOMB CONSISTS OF A BASIC CHEMICAL REACTION BETWEEN CALCIUM
CARBIDE AND H2O. WELL FIRST GO TO ANY HARDWARE STORE AND BUY CALCIUM CARBIDE.
THEY SHOULD HAVE IT BECAUSE CARBIDE CAMPING LAMPS USE THE STUFF. THE STUFF
SHOULD LOOK LIKE SMALL PIECE
                                                BOOM!



FIG. 1
TOP VIEW OF THE CAN

 ---------------
-              -
- !-----!------- PLACE CORK IN OPENING
- !-----!      - PUT GLUE AROUND CRACKS
-              -
 ---------------

FIG.2
CORK WEDGE


----------
\ ______ /
 \      /-------  WEDGE IT WITH A KNIFE RIGHT HERE
  ------

FIG. 3

COKE CAN GRENADE OVER VIEW
       _
      \ /---- CORK
-----------
!     _   !
!    ( )  !
!    ( )------ TEST TUBE WITH WATER
!    ( )  !
!****( )**------ CALCIUM CARBIDE
!*********!
-----------


THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF THIS SYSTEM DIDN'T WORK AS WELL AS THIS. IT'S UP TO YOU 
TO JUDGE FOR YOURSELF.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=->  WELL THAT'S THIS WEEKS  <=-=-=
-=-=->     CHEMISTRY CLASS      <=-=-=
-=-=->    DO YOUR HOMEWORK      <=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


NOW WE'LL WARP YOU BACK TO THE MATERIALISTIC WORLD OF NIHILISTIC VALUES...


(>View: IMPROVISED MUNITIONS

 _______________________________________
 !                                     !
 !          The Beta Pirate            !
 !              Presents               !
 !                                     !
 !    Improvised Munitions Handbook    !
 !  ---------------------------------  !
 !  (Army Technical Manual TM 31-210)  !
 !_____________________________________!



          INTRODUCTION
          ------------

     "In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible to use
conventional military munitions... It may be necessary instead to
fabricate the required munitions from locally available materials...
The purpose of this Manual is to increase the potential of Special
Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail the manufacture of
munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available materials."

     "Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to
assure saftey and reliability... Saftey warnings are prominently
inserted in the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that
SAFETEY IS A MATTER OF ATTITUDE."


----------------------------------------------------------------------
                       SECTION I:  EXPLOSIVES
----------------------------------------------------------------------

PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER -- This explosive can be detonated with
                            commercial #8 blasting cap.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Potassium Chloride
 Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline)
 Round stick or rolling pin
 Container for mixing ingredients

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Spread Potassium Chloride crystals on a hard surface. Roll round
    stick over crystals to crush into find powder until it looks
    roughly like wheat flower.

2)  Place 9 parts powdered potassium chloride and 1 part petroleum
    jelly in mixing container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead)
    until a uniform paste is obtained.

Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

POTASSIUM NITRATE -- Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many
                     natural sources and can be used to make nitric
                     acid, black powder, and other pyrotechnics.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Nitrate bearing earth ( fertile soil containing decayed matter, dirt
  from burial grounds, etc..), about 3-1/2 gallons.
 Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup
 Bucket, 5 gallon or so
 2 pieces cloth larger than bottom of bucket
 Shallow pan at least as large as bottom of bucket
 Shallow heat resistant container
 Water, 1-3/4 gallons
 Awl or screwdriver
 1 gallon alcohol (rubbing alcohol is ok)
 Heat source, Paper, Tape


PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over
    holes inside of bucket.

2)  Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the
    thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of the
    ashes.

3)  Place dirt in bucket.

4)  Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on
    sticks.

5)  Boil water and pour it over dirt in bucket a little at a time.
    Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container.
    Be sure water goes through ALL of the dirt. Allow drained liquid
    to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours.

6)  Drain liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any sludge in
    bottom of container.

7)  Boil mixture over fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt
    will begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they
    form, using any type of improvised strainer (paper, etc.).

8)  When liquid has boiled down to half its original volume, remove
    from fire and let sit. After half an hour add an equal volume of
    alcohol. When mixture is poured through paper, small white
    crystals (potassium nitrate) will collect on top of it.

9)  To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in
    the smallest possible amount of water. Remove any salt crystals
    that appear (step 7); pour through filter and evaporate or gently
    heat the concentrated solution to dryness.

10)  Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The crystals
     are now ready for use.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

IMPROVISED BLACK POWDER -- Black powder can be made in a simple, safe
                           manner. It can be used as blasting or gun
                           powder.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Potassium Nitrate, Granulated, 3 Cups (see above)
 Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
 Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
 Alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc)
 Water, 3 cups
 Heat source
 2 buckets, 2 gallons each, one of which is heat resistant
 Flat window screening, 1 foot square
 Large wooden stick
 Cloth, 2 feet square

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Place alcohol in one of the buckets

2)  Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat
    resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water & mix thoroughly with stick
    until all ingredients are dissolved.

3)  Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat
    source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.

CAUTION: Don't boil mixture. Be sure ALL mixture stays wet. If any is
         dry it may ignite!!

4)  Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while
    stirring vigorously.

5)  Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through
    cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around
    black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.

6)  Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp
    powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen.

NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change
      shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6.

7)  Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer
    about 1/2 inch is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator or direct
    sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably
    in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective
    the black powder.

CAUTION: Remove from heat AS SOON AS granules are dry. Black powder
         is now ready for use.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

NITRIC ACID -- Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives,
               incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers.

MATERIALS:
----------
 2 parts Potassium Nitrate, see above for improvised P.N.
 1 part CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid (from car battery)
 2 bottles or ceramic jugs, narrow necks are preferable
 Frying pan
 Heat source
 Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc..but not cellophane!)
 Paper or rags

IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from car battery, concentrate
           it by boiling until white fumes appear. Don't inhale
           the fumes!!

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid.
    Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste if formed.

CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. Fumes are
         also dangerous and shouldn't be inhaled.

2)  Wrap paper or rags around the necks of two bottles. Securely tape
    necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against
    each other and that there are no air spaces.

3)  Support bottles on rocks or cans so that the empty bottle is
    SLIGHTLY lower than the bottle containing plaster so that the
    nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not flow into
    other bottle.

4)  Build fire in frying pan.

5)  Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire back and
    forth underneath the bottle. As red fumes appear periodically
    pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will
    begin to form in the receiving bottle.

CAUTION: Don't overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may
         shatter. As an added precaution place the bottle to be
         heated in a can filled with sand or gravel. Heat the outer
         container to make nitric acid.

6)  Continue above process until no more red fumes are formed. If
    the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is cloudy pour
    it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6.

CAUTION: Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and
         should be kept in a sealed ceramic or glass container.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

FERTILIZER EXPLOSIVE -- An explosive can be made from fertilizer grade
                        ammonium nitrate and either fuel or motor oil
                        and gasoline.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen)
 Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1 ratio)
 Two flat boards
 Bucket
 Iron or steel pipe
 Blasting cap
 Wooden rod, 1/4 inch diameter
 Spoon


PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat board
    and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles
    are crushed into very fine powder that looks like flour (around
    10 min.)

2)  Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc..) of fuel oil with 16
    measures of the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry bucket
    and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil isn't available, use
    one half measure gasoline and one half measure motor oil. Store
    in waterproof container until ready to use.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

CARBON TET EXPLOSIVE -- A moist explosive mixture cab be made from
                        fine aluminum powder and carbon tetrachloride.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Fine aluminum bronzing powder (from paint store)
 Carbon Tetrachloride
 Stirring rod, mixing container, measuring container (cup, tablespoon,
etc..), storage container

NOTE: If you can't find carbon tet, look in your schools chemistry or
      biology rooms and "borrow" some.

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Measure two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tet liquid
    into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring
    with the wooden rod.

2)  Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.

CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be
         inhaled.

3)  Store explosive in jar or other waterproof container until ready
    to use.  The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not
    confined.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

FERTILIZER AN-AL EXPLOSIVE -- A dry explosive mixture can be made from
                              ammonium nitrate fertilizer and fine
                              aluminum powder.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than 32% nitrogen)
 Fine aluminum bronzing powder
 Measuring container, mixing container, two flat boards, storage
container


PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  METHOD 1 - To obtain a low velocity explosive

  a.  Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to
      one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container.
      (ie. 4 cups fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder)

  b.  Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod.

2)  METHOD 2 - To obtain much higher velocity explosive

  a.  Spread a handful at a time of fertilizer on the large flat
      board and rub vigorously with the other board until the
      large particles are crushed into very fine powder that looks
      like flour (10 minutes per handful.)

NOTE: Proceed with step B below as soon as possible since the powder
      may take moisture from the air and become spoiled.

  b.  Follow steps A and B of method one (above.)

3)  Store the explosive in a waterproof container.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

NITRIC ACID / NITROBENZENE -- A simple explosive can be made from
                              mononitrobenezene and nitric acid.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Nitric acid
 Mononitrobenzene (also known as nitrobenzene)
 Acid resistant measuring container and mixing rod

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc..) mononitrobenzene to 2 volumes
    nitric acid in a bottle or jar.

2)  Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.

CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn and destroy clothing; don't inhale
         it's fumes.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

CELLULOSE / ACID EXPLOSIVE -- An acid type explosive can be made from
                              nitric acid and white paper of cloth.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Nitric acid
 White unprinted, unsized paper or clean white cotton cloth
 Acid resistant container, aluminum foil, protective gloves


PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Put on gloves.

2)  Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and
    sprinkle with nitric acid until thoroughly soaked.

3)  Place another layer of paper of cloth on top of the acid-soaked
    sheet and repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary.

4)  Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and
    insert the roll into acid resistant container.

5)  Now use a blasting cap (put inside the can) to detonate the
    sheets.


----------------------------------------------------------------------
                   SECTION II:  INCENDIARY DEVICES
----------------------------------------------------------------------

CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE -- This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on
                        target impact.


MATERIALS:
----------
 Sulfuric acid
 Gasoline
 Potassium chloride
 Sugar
 Glass bottle (1 quart), Rag or absorbent paper, string

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Sulfuric acid must be concentrated!!!  If battery acid or other
    dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until den_³H­Zºe
    fumes are given off. Container used should be enamel-ware or
    oven glass.

CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn! Be careful...

2)  Remove acid from heat and allow to cool.

3)  Pour gasoline into large bottle until it is approximately 2/3
    full.

4)  Add concentrated sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the
    bottle is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place stopper on
    the bottle.

5)  Wash outside of bottle thoroughly.

CAUTION: If this is not done the fire bottle may be dangerous to
         handle during use.

6)  Wrap clean cloth around outside of bottle. Tie with string.

7)  Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chloride and 1/2 cup of sugar in
    one cup of boiling water.

8)  Allow solution to cool, pour into a small bottle and cap tightly.
    The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid.
    If there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using.

CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.

TO USE:
-------

1)  Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth
    around the large bottle.

Bottle can be used wet of after solution has dried. However, when dry
the sugar - potassium chloride mixture is sensitive to spark or flame.

2)  Throw or launch bottle. When bottle breaks against hard surface,
    the fuel will ignite.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

GELLED FLAME FUELS -- The white of any egg can be used to gel gasoline
                      for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to
                      target surface.

MATERIALS:
----------

Parts by
volume    Ingredient
--------  ----------
   85     Gasoline
   14     Egg white

Any one of the following:

    1    Table salt
    2    Sugar
    1    Epson salt
 1 1/2   Baking soda


PROCEDURE:
----------

CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when
         mixing flame fuels.

1)  Separate egg white from yolk.  This can be done by breaking
    the egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.

NOTE: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white.

2)  Pour egg white into jar and add gasoline.

3)  Add salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally
    until gel forms (5-10 minutes).

Gasoline is now gelled and can be used in a fire bottle (above). It
will now adhere to the target.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

WHITE FLARE -- A white flare can be made from potassium nitrate,
               aluminum powder and shellac. It has a duration of
               approx. 2 minutes.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Potassium nitrate
 Aluminum powder (bronzing)
 Shellac
 Quart jar w/lid, fuse, wooden rod, tin can, flat window screen,
 wooden block

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Place potassium nitrate crystals on screen. Rub material back
    and forth against screen mesh with wooden block until the nitrate
    is granulated into a powder.

2)  Measure 21 tablespoons of the powdered nitrate into quart jar.
    Add 21 tablespoons of aluminum powder to the nitrate.

3)  Place the lid on the jar and shake ingredients vigorously until
    well mixed.

4)  Add 12 tablespoons of shellac to the mixture and stir with the
    wooden rod. Store mixture until ready for step 7.

5)  Knot one end of the fuse.

6)  Wrap the knotted end of the fuse once around the inside bottom
    of the can with the knot at the center. Then run the rest of the
    fuse out the center top of the can.

7)  Pour the mixture into the can and around the fuse.

8)  Store mixture away from heat and flame until ready for use, but
    not longer than 3 weeks.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
                  SECTION III:  EXPLOSIVE CHARGES
----------------------------------------------------------------------

COKE BOTTLE SHAPED CHARGE -- This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in.
                             of armor.

MATERIALS:
----------
 Glass Coke bottle, 6 1/2 ounce size
 Plastic explosive
 Blasting cap
 Metal cylinder, open at both ends, 6 in. long & 2 in. inside
   diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for best results.
 Plug to fit mouth of Coke bottle
 Non-metal rod, 1/4 inch diameter, 8 inches or more long
 Tape or string

PROCEDURE:
----------

1)  Place plug in mouth of bottle.

2)  Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests
    on widest part of bottle (a little below the neck). Tape the
    cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of
    bottle.

3)  Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with
    rod until cylinder is full.

4)  Press the rod about 1/2 inch into the middle of the top of the
    explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.

HOW TO USE:
-----------

1)  Place blasting cap in hole in top of the explosive.

2)  Place bottom of Coke bottle flush against the target.

3)  Light fuse or use an electrical igniter when ready to fire.


   _______________________________________
   !      This article presented by:     !
   !           The Beta Pirate           !
   ---------------------------------------

     Formatted to 80 Cols by WHITE CHINA

(>View: PIPE BOMBS

The following file is for all you pyromaniacs.

              PIPE BOMBS

    There are many forms of pipe bombs used today.  This file will cover
    these types:

      CO2 canisters
      "Pipe" bombs
      PVC pipe bombs
      Steel cased pipe bombs

      in addition to: timers, various igniting techniques, launching

CO2 canisters:

  CO2 canisters are among the simplest and safest forms of pipe bombs.  They
can be purchased in any Sporting Goods store for about $2 for 5.  Simply let
out the CO2 inside, and fill with gunpowder.  If you are not yet old enough
to buy gunpowder, then you can use powdered sulfur and zinc (60% zinc, 40%
sulfur--> by volume-not weight).  If you really want to use gunpowder, then
try this:

    1) obtain a letter
    1) obtain a letterhead from any official sounding organization (or make
       your own).
    2) Use it to mail a letter to some large chemical company saying you are
       a researcher or teacher for some school or business and you need so
       many parts of this and that.

This usually works.  If you are really desperate, you can scrape the fuel out
of rocket engines (Estes) and use that. It usually takes about 2 C engines to
do that.
   Anyway, fill your CO2 with whatever materials you are using.  Then plug the
end with a piece of fuse  (1/16" of an inch I think). Then put your bomb in a
hole or something, light it and run.
   There's usually only one piece of shrapnel about the size of your fist.
CAUTION:  Make sure the outside of your "bomb" is very clean and has no
          gunpowder on it.  Otherwise you may have only 2 sec. to run instead
          of 10.

"Pipe" bombs:

OK, heres how to make your standard pipe bomb.  Go to your local junk yard or
any where for that matter and get a piece of pipe (any size).   Thread each
end. (on the outside).  Cap one end.   Drill a hole in the middle of the pipe
the size of your fuse.  fill with one of the ingredients listed earlier.  OIL
the open end of the pipe and cap it VERY CAREFULLY.   If you don't oil the
ends it could spark... Just last week some guy was making one in a garage and
it sparked.  There was only one thing to be heard afterwards: drip, drip, drip
... so OIL it before you cap this end. Then put it in a hole with a LONG fuse,
light it and run like hell! I'm not sure how this compares to dynamite, but
I'll post what happens when I light off a 3" dia. by 12" long pipe bomb I just
recently made....

PVC pipe bombs:

   PVC pipes are those one made of plastic that are glued together.  For
these you should follow the same procedure as for pipe bombs, but instead
of screwing on caps, you glue them on with the glue used with PVC pipes.  This
is much safer then using metal cause it doesn't spark.  Plus, the glue is so
strong that it the ends wont blow off (which sometimes happens).

***IF YOU ARE TRYING TO BE ESPECIALLY DESTRUCTIVE, PUT SMALL PIECES OF METAL
   IN WITH THE GUN POWDER...

Steel Casings:

 Ok, this is by far the most deadly of the pipe bombs.  Take a steel rod of
any thickness (probably at least 1/2") and bore out the center by drilling in
from one end.  Don't drill all the way through though.  Then drill a hole in
the side for the fuse. Follow the same method for capping the open end as is
done with regular pipe bombs. The nice thing about steel is its strength.
The thicker you make the walls of the bomb, the bigger the bang. Size helps
also.  There's only one problem with it though- The cap at one end tends to
blow off if its too powerful, or if the cap holds, then all the fuel shoots
out through th fuse hole. There is a solution for each.
 To keep the cap on, make a clamp out of steel that wraps around the bomb
from end to end.  This should hold it in place.
 For the fuse hole:  Drill a very tiny hole.  Then use an ignitor (prefer-
ably home made) with insulated wires. Then take another thin steel casing and
fit the bomb inside it- only this steel casing doesn't have a fuse hole- just
run the leads out one end.  Use your standard ignition switch for any
ignitor and set it off.  It would probably be safer to use a timer.  (see
below).

Timers:

The best form of timer that I have found so far is the simple egg timer.
All you have to do is wire a connection around the egg time so that when
the timer reaches 0 the two wire leads are touching.   Fairly simple.

Igniting:

Basically there are two ways to ignite your bomb.  The first is by fuse.  The
second is by electricity. The best way to ignite a bomb by electricity is to
use the Estes ignitors used commonly for model rockets. These work quite well.
Of course, for the method I outlined for the steel bomb, you would have to use
insulated wires because they would be touching in such a small hole.

Launching:

Well, its always fun to be able to watch your bomb blow up without risking
shrapnel, and especially at night. So, assuming your bomb isn't to heavy,
you can launch it in an Estes rocket.


(>View: SOFTDRINK BOMBS

                        SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB FROM THE
                       BOOK THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND
                     BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN

THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A SOFT
DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER
EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS
THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW.

AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR GLYCERINE IS
PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT
BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN
HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY.

IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S
SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM YOUR BOMB
HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST!

                         !!
                         !!
                         !! <- CHEMICAL IGNITER
                     ---------
                     !  !1!  !
                     ! ===== !
                     !*!   !"!
                     ! !   ! !
                     ! !   ! ! <- BIG FIRECRACKER
                     ! !   !%!
                     ! ====  !
                     !       !
                     !   #   !
                     ! ---   !
                     !  !    ! <- NUTS & BOLTS
                     !  /    !
                     !       !
                     ---------


(>View: HOW TO MAKE A STINK BOMB

STINKUM: FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN

IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND
JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS
TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT
HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION.

TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFUR WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME
IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND
STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFUR HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A
BUCKET.

TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFIDE
OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH
PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID
SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE
YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE
LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON.

A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFIDE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN
STORE AND GARDEN SULFUR IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT
HAS 10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR-
ING SULFUR. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10
A POUND.

STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A
BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE
FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS
USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE
CAN BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS
BOUGHT AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION.
TO KEEP THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO
MELTED WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN
THE FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS
POSSIBLE BEFORE USING.

IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR
CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE
SOMEONE.

      ! <- FUSE
     ---
     ! ! <- BRASS TUBE
     ! !
     ! !
     (^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE
   -------
   ! !1! !
   !  /  !
   !  /  !
   !-----! <- WAX
   !  1  !
   !  1  !
   ! === !
   ! ! ! !
   ! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER
   ! ! ! !
   ! ! ! !
   ! === !
   !-----!


(>View: HOW TO MAKE TNT

                                   HOW TO MAKE TNT
                               THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK

PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT EXPLOSIVE COMPOUND IN USE TODAY IS TNT (TRINITRO-
TOLENE).  THIS AND OTHER VERY SIMILAR TYPES OF HIGH EXPLOSIVES ARE ALL USED BY
THE MILITARY, BECAUSE OF THEIR FANTASTIC POWER - ABOUT 2.25 MILLION POUNDS PER
SQUARE INCH, AND THEIR GREAT STABILITY.  TNT ALSO HAS THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF
BEING ABLE TO BE MELTED AT 82 DEGREES F.,SO THAT IT CAN BE POURED INTO SHELLS,
MORTARS, OR ANY OTHER PROJECTILES.  MILITARY TNT COMES IN CONTAINERS WHICH
RESEMBLE DRY CELL BATTERIES, AND ARE USUALLY IGNITED BY AN ELECTRICAL CHARGE,
COUPLED WITH AN ELECTRICAL BLASTING CAP, ALTHOUGH THERE ARE OTHER METHODS.

PREPARATION OF TNT-

1 TAKE TWO BEAKERS. IN THE FIRST, PREP ARE A SOLUTION OF 76% SULFURIC ACID,
  23% NITRIC ACID, AND 1% WATER.IN THE OTHER BEAKER, PREPARE ANOTHER SOLUTION
  OF 57% NITRIC ACID AND 43% SULFURIC ACID (%'S ARE ON A WEIGHT RATIO RATHER
  THAN VOLUME ).

2 TEN GRAMS OF THE FIRST SOLUTION ARE POURED INTO AN EMPTY BEAKER AND PLACED
  IN AN ICE BATH.

3 ADD TEN GRAMS OF TOLUENE, AND STIR FOR SEVERAL MINUTES.

4 REMOVE THIS BEAKER FROM THE ICE BATH AND GENTLY HEAT UNTIL IT REACHES
  50 DEGREES C. THE SOLUTION IS STIRRED CONSTANTLY WHILE BEING HEATED.

5 FIFTY ADDITIONAL GRAMS OF THE ACID, FROM THE FIRST BEAKER, ARE ADDED AND THE
  TEMPERATURE IS ALLOWED TO RISE TO 55 DEGREES C. THIS TEMPERATURE IS HELD FOR
  THE NEXT TEN MINUTES, AND AN OILY LIQUID WILL BEGIN TO FORM ON THE TOP OF
  THE ACID.

6 ABOUT 10 OR 12 MINUTES, THE ACID SOLUTION IS RETURNED TO THE ICE BATH, AND
  COOLED TO 45 DEGREES C. WHEN REACHING THIS TEMPERATURE, THE OILY LIQUID
  WILL SINK AND COLLECT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAKER. AT THIS POINT, THE
  REMAINING ACID SOLUTION SHOULD BE DRAWN OFF, BY USING A SYRINGE.

7 FIFTY MORE GRAMS OF THE FIRST ACID SOLUTION ARE ADDED TO THE OILY LIQUID
  WHILE THE TEMPERATURE IS SLOWLY BEING RAISED TO 83 DEGREES C. AFTER THIS
  TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, IT IS MAINTAINED FOR A FULL HALF HOUR.

8 AT THE END OF THIS PERIOD, THE SOLUTION IS ALLOWED TO COOL TO 60 DEGREES C.,
  AND IS HELD AT THIS TEMPERATURE FOR ANOTHER FULL HALF HOUR. AFTER THIS, THE
  ACID IS AGAIN DRAWN OFF, LEAVING ONCE MORE ONLY THE OILY LIQUID AT THE
  BOTTOM.

9 THIRTY GRAMS OF SULFURIC ACID ARE ADDED, WHILE THE OILY LIQUID IS GENTLY
  HEATED TO 80 DEGREES C. ALL TEMPERATURE INCREASES MUST BE ACCOMPLISHED
  SLOWLY AND GENTLY.

10 ONCE THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, 30 GRAMS OF THE SECOND ACID
   SOLUTION ARE ADDED, AND THE TEMPERATURE IS RAISED FROM 80 DEGREES C. TO
   104 DEGREES C., AND IS HELD FOR THREE HOURS.

11 AFTER THIS THREE-HOUR PERIOD, THE MIXTURE IS LOWERED TO 100 DEGREES C. AND
   IS HELD THERE FOR A HALF HOUR. 12. AFTER THIS HALF HOUR, THE OIL IS REMOVED
   FROM THE ACID AND WASHED WITH BOILING WATER.

13 AFTER THE WASHING WITH BOILING WATER, WHILE BEING STIRRED CONSTANTLY, THE
   TNT WILL BEGIN TO SOLIDIFY.

14 WHEN THE SOLIDIFICATION HAS STARTED, COLD WATER IS ADDED TO THE BEAKER, SO
   THAT THE TNT WILL FORM INTO PELLETS. ONCE THIS IS DONE, YOU HAVE A GOOD
   QUALITY TNT.


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FLASH POWDER
------------

FLASH POWDER IS A CHEMICAL MIXTURE THAT BURNS SO FAST THAT IT APPEARS TO BURN
INSTANTLY, PRODUCING A BRIGHT FLASH OF LIGHT.

FLASH POWDER WILL PRODUCE AN EXTREMELY LOUD EXPLOSION IN AMOUNTS LARGER THAN 4
OUNCES EVEN WHEN IT IS NOT CONTAINED VERY SMALL AMOUNTS OF FLASH POWDER WILL 
PRODUCE A VERY LOUD EXPLOSION WHEN CONTAINED, EVEN IN A CONTAINER MADE OF A FEW
LAYERS OF PAPER.

FLASH POWDER IS USUALLY MADE FROM A VERY FINE POWDERED METAL THAT WILL BURN AND
AN OXIDIZER.  POWDERED ALUMINUM IS USED THE MOST BECAUSE IT IS CHEAPER. 
POWDERED MAGNESIUM AND ZINC WILL ALSO WORK.  THE OXIDIZER CAN BE BARIUM 
NITRATE, AMMONIUM PERCHLORATE, BARIUM PEROXIDE, STRONTIUM NITRATE, POTASSIUM 
CHLORATE, POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE, SODIUM CHLORATE, POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE,
OTHERS, AND ANY COMBINATION OF THESE. ALL THE CHLORATE ARE FRICTION AND IMPACT
SENSITIVE, AND ALSO THE PERMAN GANATE.  POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE IS THE LEAST
SENSITIVE OF THE CHLORATES.

ALL THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE CRUSHED INTO A VERY FINE POWDER, ABOUT 400 MESH
OR SMALLER.  400 MESH IS ABOUT LIKE KITCHEN TYPE FLOUR.

BLACK GERMAN ALUMINUM IS A BRAND NAME FOR ALUMINUM POWDER. IT HAS A PARTICAL 
SIZE OF 600 MESH FOR 98% OF THE ALUMINUM MATERIAL. THE OTHER 2% OF THE MATERIAL
IS LARGER THAN 600 MESH. THERE ARE OTHER ALUMINUM POWDERS MADE BY OTHER
COMPANIES THAT ARE EQUAL TO OR BETTER THAN BLACK GERMAN ALUMINUM.

ALUMINUM PYRO POWDER IS ALSO A BRAND NAME.  THE PARTICAL SIZE IS (98%-400) OR
98% OF THE MATERIAL IS SMALLER THAN 400 MESH. THE OTHER 2% IS LARGER THAN 400 
MESH.


FLASH POWDER FORMULAS 
1. IT IS NOT MOISTURE ABSORBENT. NOT VERY SENSITIVE TO IMPACT OR FRICTION.
   SODIUM CHLORATE OR POTASSIUM CHLORATE CAN BE USED INSTEAD OF POTASSIUM
   PERCHLORATE BUT IT THEN BECOMES VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND IMPACT.  4
   OUNCES OF THIS MIXTURE WILL PRODUCE AN EXPLOSION EQUAL TO ONE STICK OF
   DYNAMITE!

POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE           2 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER 600 MESH        1 OZ.

2. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES AND EXTREMELY LOUD EXPLOSION, ALMOST AS GOOD AS 
   FORMULA #1. THIS IS WHAT MOST FIRECRACKERS, M-80'S AND OTHER FIREWORKS ARE
   MADE WITH.

POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE           2 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH        1 OZ.

3. THIS FORMULA IS EQUAL TO FORMULA #2 IT IS NOT SENSITIVE TO FRICTION OR 
   IMPACT.

BARIUM PEROXIDE                 9 OZ.
50%/50% MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM
POWDER 200 MESH                 1 OZ.

4. THIS FORMULA WORKS AS GOOD AS FORMULA #2 BUT IT PRODUCES A VERY BRIGHT 
   FLASH. THIS FORMULA IS WHAT USE TO BE USED FOR THE PHOTO FLASH FOR THE OLD
   BOX TYPE CAMERAS ABOUT 100 YEARS AGO

BARIUM NITRATE                  3 OZ.
POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE           3 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH        4 OZ.

5. THIS FORMULA WORKS VERY GOOD. IT IS NOT VERY IMPACT OR FRICTION SENSITIVE. 
   IT PRODUCES A VERY, VERY LOUD EXPLOSION.  POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE CONTAINS
   46.1914% OXYGEN. HALF AS POWERFUL AS #2.

POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE           2 OZ.
SULFUR                          1 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH        1 OZ.

6. THIS FORMULA WORKS AS GOOD AS #5 BUT IT HAS A DISADVANTAGE OF BEING MOISTURE
   ABSORBENT AND IT IS VERY IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE. SODIUM CHLORATE 
   CONTAINS 45.0937% OXYGEN. PRODUCES A VERY, VERY LOUD EXPLOSION, EQUAL TO #5.

SODIUM CHLORATE                 2 OZ.
SULFUR                          1 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH        1 OZ.

7. THIS FORMULA IS VERY DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT IS VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND
   IMPACT AND COULD EXPLODE DURING THE CONSTRUCTION OF ANY EXPLOSIVE DEVICE.
   POTASSIUM CHLORATE CONTAINS 39.1664% OXYGEN. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES AN
   EXPLOSION ALMOST EQUAL TO #5 OR #6. USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TOY CAP 
   PISTOL CAPS.

POTASSIUM CHLORATE              2 OZ.
SULFUR                          1 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER                 1 OZ.

8. THIS FORMULA IS VERY, VERY VERY SENSITIVE TO IMPACT, FRICTION AND STATIC 
   ELECTRICITY, EVEN MORE SENSITIVE THAN #7. EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! WILL IGNITE
   EVEN WHEN WET.

POTASSIUM CHLORATE              6.7 OZ.
RED PHOSPHORUS                  2.7 OZ.
SULFUR                          0.3 OZ.
CALCIUM CARBONATE               0.3 OZ.

9. THIS FORMULA HAS SLIGHTLY LESS EXPLOSIVE POWER THAN #7. IT IS SLIGHTLY
   FRICTION AND IMPACT SENSITIVE. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE CONTAINS 40.4961%
   OXYGEN. THIS FORMULA WILL IGNITE ITSELF IF IT GETS WET. VERY LOUD EXPLOSION.

POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE          2 OZ.
SULFUR                          1 OZ.
ALUMINUM POWDER                 1 OZ.

10. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES A VERY SMALL EXPLOSION WHEN IGNITED IN A PAPER TUBE.
    A MUCH LOUDER EXPLOSION IS PRODUCED WHEN IT IS IGNITED IN A VERY STRONG 
    CONTAINER. IT IS IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE.

POTASSIUM CHLORATE              7.5 OZ.
CHARCOAL DUST                   1.5 OZ.
SULFUR                          1.0 OZ.

11. NO INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ABOUT
    THIS FORMULA.

POTASSIUM CHLORATE              6 OZ.
ANTIMONY SULFIDE                3 OZ.
SULFUR                          1 OZ.

12. THIS FORMULA IS A LITTLE LOUDER THAN FORMULA #10. IMPACT AND FRICTION
    SENSITIVE. PRODUCES A SMALL EXPLOSION IN A PAPER CONTAINER.

SODIUM CHLORATE                 7.5 OZ.
CHARCOAL DUST                   1.5 OZ.
SULFUR                          1.0 OZ.

13. NO INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ABOUT
    THIS FORMULA.

POTASSIUM CHLORATE              7.5 OZ.
GALLIC ACID                     2.2 OZ.
RED GUM                         0.3 OZ.


!CAUTION!
---------

THE MIXTURE OF ANY CHLORATE WITH PHOSPHORUS OR SULFUR IS EXTREMEY SENSITIVE TO
FRICTION AND PERCUSSION AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT VIOLENCE.

CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES MUST NOT BE STORED TOGETHER WITH AMMONIUM NITRATE
EXPLOSIVES, SINCE AMMONIUM CHLORATE WHICH IS FORMED WHEN THESE TWO SUBSTANCES
ARE BROUGHT IN CONTACT, EXPLODES.

WHEN MIXING CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES, CRUSH ALL OF THE CHEMICALS SEPARATELY. SIFT 
THE OXIDIZER THROUGH A PIECE OF SCREEN WIRE TO BREAK UP THE MATERIAL INTO SMALL
PIECES. THEN SIFT THE OTHER CHEMICALS ALSO IF THEY NEED IT.

MIX ALL OF THE FLASH POWDER CHEMICALS TOGETHER AND MIX WELL BY SIFTING THEM 
THROUGH A PIECE OF SCREEN WIRE OR BY SHAKING THEM IN A ZIP LOCK BAG. THIS 
MIXTURE IS VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION, IMPACT, HEAT, SPARK, STATIC ELECTRICITY.

4 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER HS THE SAME EXPLOSIVE POWER AS ONE STICK OF DYNAMITE.
ONE GROSS OF M-80 FIRE- CRACKERS IS EQUAL TO 3 STICKS OF DYNAMITE.

8 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER WILL MAKE 100 M-80 TYPE FIRECRACKERS IF EACH M-80
CONTAINS 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER.

M-80'S WITH 1/4 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER PRODUCES AN EXPLOSION THAT SOUND
ALMOST EXACTLY THE SAME AS M-80'S WITH 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER, BUT IT
HAS LESS DESTRUCTIVE POWER.

24 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER WILL MAKE 100 M-100 TYPE FIRECRACKERS. (AND THESE ARE
AWSOME!)

QUICK CONVERSIONS:

3 TEASPONS    = 1 TABLESPOON
4 TABLESPOONS = 1/4 CUP
1/4 CUP       = 2 OZ.


M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION
-------------------------

1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE. RUN A SMALL AMOUNT OF ELMER'S GLUE AROUND 
THE SIDE OF AN END PLUG OR THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE PAPER TUBE.  INSERT THE END
PLUG, CONVEX SIDE FIRST, INTO THE PAPER TUBE. PUSH IT IN UNTIL THE BACK EDGE
OF THE PLUG IS FLUSH WITH THE EDGE OF THE PAPER TUBE.

2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE. USING A 1/8 INCH DRILL BIT, AN ICE PICK OR A SHARP NAIL,
PUNCH A HOLE THROUGH ONE SIDE OF THE PAPER TUBE IN THE MIDDLE. NEVER PUNCTURE A
CASE THAT CONTAINS FLASH POWDER. THE PAPER TUBE SHOULD ALWAYS BE FUSED BEFORE
THE FLASH POWDER IS ADDED. CUT THE FUSE TO 1 1/2 INCHES IN LENGTH AND INSERT IT
INTO THE HOLE AT LEAST HALFWAY ACROSS THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE PAPER TUBE. 
RUN A SMALL AMOUNT OF ELMER'S GLUE AROUND THE FUSE AND LET IT DRY.

3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER EXTREME CAUTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN MIXING FLASH
POWDER. FLASH POWDER IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT FORCE. 
AVOID ALL SOURCES OF FRICTION, IMPACT, FLAME, SPARKS AND STATIC ELECTRICITY.

4. FILL THE PAPER TUBES STAND THE PAPER TUBES ON END, OPEN END UP. USING A SMALL
FUNNEL AND A MEASURING SPOON 1/2 TEASPOON, FILL THE PAPER TUBES 1/2 TO 2/3 FULL.
DO NOT FILL THE TUBES COMPLETELY FULL OR PACK IN THE FLASH POWDER. BY LEAVING AN
AIR SPACE THERE IS ROOM FOR THE FLASH POWDER TO EXPAND WHEN IGNITED WHICH WILL
PRODUCE A MUCH LOUDER EXPLOSION.

5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUG PLUG THE OPEN END IN THE SAME WAY THAT YOU PLUGGED
THE FIRST END.


MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80
-----------------------------

1. ONE PAPER TUBE, 1/2 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER, 1/16 INCH WALL THICKNESS, 1 1/2 
INCHES LONG.

2. TWO PAPER END PLUGS 1/2 INCH OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 1/16 INCH PAPER THICKNESS.

3. ONE 3/32 DIAMETER WATER PROOF FUSE ABOUT 1 1/2 INCHES LONG.

4. 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER.

5. 10 DROPS OF ELMER'S GLUE.

              TUBE
      --   ===========   --
END   !!   )    O    (   !! END
PLUG  --   ===========   -- PLUG

           FUSE ^ HOLE


             -----------
             M80 OR M100
             -----------


MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100
----------------------------

1. ONE PAPER TUBE, 5/8 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER, 1 3/4 INCH LONG

2. TWO PAPER END PLUGS 5/8 INCH OUTSIDE DIAMETER.

3. ONE WATER PROOF FUSE ABOUT 1 1/2 INCHES LONG.

4. 1 1/2 TEASPOONS OF FLASH POWDER.

5. 10 DROPS OF ELMER'S GLUE


CHEMICALS
---------

MOST OF THE CHEMICALS YOU NEED ARE SOLD AT K-MART, HARDWARE STORES, DRUG 
STORES, LUMBER YARDS, PLUMBING SUPPLY, WAL-MART, CEMENT COMPANY AND MANY OTHER 
STORES.

SODIUM CHLORATE. O2 SOLID OXYGEN PELLETS ARE USED IN SMALL WORK SHOP TORCHES.
 
O-OP, DRUG STORES AND LAWN AND GARDEN CENTERS.

ALUMINUM POWDER. SOLD BY PAINT STORES AND AUTO PARTS STORES. ALUMINUM POWDER
CAN BE FOUND IN RADIATOR STOP LEAK.

SODIUM NITRATE. SOLD BY DRUG STORES AND MEAT PACKING PLANTS.

ANTIMONY SULFIDE. IS SOLD BY MOST PLUMBING SUPPLY STORES.

NOW YOU PROBABLY WONDER WHERE YOU CAN GET THE PAPER TUBES AND END CAPS. OK JUST
WRITE:

FULL AUTO CO. INC.
P.O. BOX 1881
MURFREESBORO, TN. 37133

AND ASK FOR A CATALOG. 
M-80 SIZE TUBES ARE 100-$5. END PLUGS ARE 200-$3.5
M-100 SIZE TUBES ARE 100-$9. END PLUGS ARE 200-$5.
YOU MUST HAVE AN ORDER FORM TO ORDER THIS. THEY ALSO SELL ALL THE CHEMICALS YOU
NEED TO MAKE FLASH POWDER.  YOU MUST BE OVER 21 OR AT LEAST SIGN THE ORDER THAT
SAYS THAT YOU ARE 21.  THERE IS NO WAY THAT THEY CAN FIND OUT.  I DO NOT SUGGEST
THAT YOU BUY THEIR WATER PROOF FUSE BECAUSE IT SUCKS!  GO TO A GUN SHOP IN YOUR
AREA AND ASK FOR CANNON FUSES.  IT'S PROBABLY AROUND 35 TO 40 CENTS A FOOT AND 
IS WATER PROOF AND MUCH BETTER QUALITY.  YOU DO HAVE TO BE 16 OR 18 TO BUY IT.

VE TO
FRICTION AND PERCUSSION AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT VIOLENCE.


