 


















        The Big Book of Chemical, Powder, and Thermonuclear Explosives

                                     or:

                            How to Blow up Things



                           Compiled by: Mastermind



                          This file distributed by:



                    `@*-*-*-*THE RAZOR'S EDGE BBS*-*-*-*@'
                      Lots of neat-o files like this one
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                     Sysop: Harold Richards (Harry Dick)





















                              TABLE OF CONTENTS



Introduction........................................1

Chapter 1- Door Switch and Explosive................2

Chapter 2- Chemical Explosives......................5

     1. Carbide Bomb................................5
     2. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower..................5
     3. Unstable Solid Explosion....................5
     4. Poisonous Gas Bomb..........................6
     5. Napalm......................................6
     6. Electrically Activated Gell Explosion.......7
     7. Bolt Bomb...................................7
     8. Mine........................................7
     9. Chlorine Bomb...............................8
    10. Poison BB Gun...............................8
    11. Simple Plastique............................8
    12. Oven Cleaner Vaporizer......................9

Chapter 3- Plastic Explosive........................10

Chapter 4- Smoke Bombs and other Harmlessness.......13

     1. Smoke Bomb 1 (Chemical).....................13
     2. Smoke Bomb 2 (Powder).......................13
     3. Stink Bomb..................................13
     4. Imitation Marijuana (just for fun)..........13

Chapter 5- How to make Explosive Powders(gunpowder).15

Chapter 6- Gunpowder Explosives.....................21

     1. Arrow Rocket Launcher.......................21
     2. Special Effects Explosion...................21
     3. Tennis Ball Bomb............................21
     4. Tennis Ball Bomb Launcher...................21

Chapter 7- Making a an H-Bomb.......................23

     1. Getting the Ingredients.....................23
     2. Stuffing your A-Bomb........................27
     3. Putting Your H-Bomb together................29
     4. What to do with Your Bomb...................30

Technical Information...............................34













                                 Introduction





     I made this using various pieces of information collected from a

number of BBS's and people. I am only saying this because I expect a

lot of people to read this and say "Hell, I read this before!" Well, I

didn't write the majority of this stuff, but I did put in into a common

format and correct the spelling. If you read all of this, and you still

think that I didn't really do any work, well SCREW YOU!


     If ANYONE has any other explosive information that you think should be

included in this book, send a message to MASTERMIND on the Razor's Edge BBS.



          MOST OF THIS IS UNTESTED AND I HAVE NO PROOF OF VALIDITY!




     I wouldn't try any of this and I take no responsibility for misuse

of this PURELY informational document.



     Then again, if you make an atomic weapon, none of us have to worry

about being arrested, do we?























                          Door Switch and Explosive



    It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you.  Being of a

rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a

(direct) confrontation.  But as he laughs in your face, you smile

inwardly---your revenge is already planned.



Step 1:  follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.  Once you

         have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,

         letting your anger boil.



Step 2:  in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist

         kit (details below.)



Step 3:  plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday

         morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am.  Include a

         calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility

         of another attack.  Do not write it by hand!  An example of

         an effective note:



                        "Don't be such a jerk, or the
                        next one will take off your
                        hand.  Have a nice day."



        Notice how the calm tone instills fear.  As if written by a

        homicidal psychopath.



Step 5:  choose a strategic location overlooking the target site.  Try

         to position yourself in such a way that you can see his

         facial contortions.



Step 6:  sit back and enjoy the fireworks!





Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit:



The parts you'll need are:

 1) 4 aa batteries

 2) 1 9-volt battery

 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)

 4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)

 5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)

 6) 1 9-volt battery connector



step 1:  take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.

         This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when

         separated cut off this circuit.  These contacts should be

         held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or

         car door.  Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart

         and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall

         to the closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If

         all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.)



Step 2:  take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.  Wire the

         positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,

         until all four are connected except one positive terminal and

         one negative terminal.  Even though the four aa batteries only

         combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is

         necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and

         effectively.



Step 3:  take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it

         to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of

         the solar ignitor.  Then wire the other prong of the solar

         ignitor back to the open position on the relay.



Step 4:  using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,

         mailbox, or car door.  And last, insert the solar ignitor

         into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).



                      Your kit is now complete!




                         ---------><---------
                         I    (CONTACTS)    I
                         I                  I
                         I                 --- (9  VOLT)
                         I                  -  (BATTERY)
                         I                 ---
                         I                  I
                         I      (COIL)      I
                         ------///////-------
                              /-----------
                             /           I
                            /            I
                           /             I
                       (SWITCH) I        I
                                I        I
                                I       --- (BATTERY)
                                I        -  ( PACK  )
                                I       ---
                                I        I
                                I        I
                                ---- -----
                                   I I
                                    *
                              (SOLAR IGNITOR)



















                             Chemical Explosives



1. Carbide Bomb


    This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain

some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps

and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of

this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some

water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to

produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting

torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If

the gas touched a spark or whatever then KAABOOM! A very big kabom too.

CAUTION: extreme pressure is built up when the gas starts. This may be

enough to blow it up without the flame. About 5 rocks and a little

water in a rubbing alcohol bottle with a hole in the top is about he

equivalent of an M-80. I haven't tried a full bottle yet though...



2. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower


     For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire

and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches

of the tailpipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.

Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the

switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached

to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply

hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no

one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!



3. Unstable Solid Explosion


     First, get some Iodine crystals and some filter paper(coffee

filter).  put the filter in a funnel over a box or the ground (NOT YOUR

SINK!), put the iodine crystals in it and pour ammonia SLOWLY over it.

When saturated, scrape out of filter(carefully) and place in some cute

little place.Such as stairs, sidewalk(if you want to kill someone,

put it in their gas tank). It'l dry and become so unstable that if you

let even a GENTLE fart on it it will blow your 'nads to Jersey.THIS

STUFF IS VERY UNSTABLE, ESPECIALLY WHEN DRY!



4. Poisonous Gas Bomb


     Here's a fun thing to do at a party or other happy occasion. You

get some hydrochloric acid (also known as muriatic acid) from a store

that sells swimming pool supplies. (hydrochloric acid is used to kill

algae in pools) Mix it with gasoline, then pour it into a bottle and

cap it tightly.  When you are ready to use this, you simply open it up

and drop in a couple of chunks(10cm) of aluminum cut from a pipe or

slab.  It should take a few minutes to react (if you stored it in a

TIGHTLY capped bottle),and when it does, you better be out of there

because first-it bursts the bottle, producing a large,dark cloud of

poison gas.  Then,if there is anyone is smoking, the whole room should

literally explode and become a ball of fire.



5. Napalm


    Napalm can be made by mixing one part soap (either soap flakes or

shredded bar soap) with one part gasoline. The problem with this is

that the gasoline must be heated so the soap will melt. Take a can and

mix up a lot of gas and oil. Totally soak a tennis ball in it

overnight, and take it out the next day. Wipe it off (don't worry,the

stuff will soak in.)then tie a string around it and allow about 3 feet

of slack. Light the ball, and watch out!! Walk down the street swinging

the fireball over your head,and you have several options..



6. Electrically Activated Gell Explosion


Ok, you will need:
  1) 6-volt battery
  2) Two wires
  3) 3 parts gasoline
  4) 2 parts Vaseline

      Mix the gas with the Vaseline and let it gel. This should take 1-

3 days depending on the amount. After it has gelled stick the ends of

two preferably LONG wires in it. Put the other ends of the wires on the

+ and -ends of the battery. Of course, you might want to use a switch

or something.



7. Bolt Bomb


What you need:

2 bolts (same size)
1 nut (fits bolts)
Some matches

    1) Scrape the tips off the matches (the type that light anywhere)

    2) Screw the nut onto a bolt so that less than half the nut is

       actually touching the bolt.

    3) Place match tips in hole formed by nut

    4) Screw the second bolt onto the free end of the nut, trapping the

       match tips between the 2 bolts

    5) Throw it far (and run like hell), upon impact, the match tips

       will explode, sending both bolts flying in opposite directions.

       It can cause serious damage if one hits you!



8. Mine


What you will need :

1 M-80 (or something similar)
3 wires
1 9-volt battery
1 solar igniter
1 pressure switch





Directions:

1) Connect wires from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery.

2) Replace fuse on M-80 with solar igniter

3) Bury M-80 (and battery) under a light coat of dirt

4) Place switch in enemy's path, uncovered, but not visible.

5) Wait.... and BOOM!

Note: For best results, place M-80 3 feet behind switch, there is a

slight delay before the explosion occurs and we wouldn't want him to

miss it...  would we!



9. Chlorine Bomb


     First get 2 beer bottles with caps or 2 baby food bottles with

tops may be used then fill 1 bottle with chlorine (Don't mix them

directly together, as doing so will result in an irreversable state of

death.) then cap tightly.  Next fill other bottle with gas then cap

tightly.  Next tape both bottles together then throw when bottles break

and the shit mixes it's gonna make a huge explosion just like a bomb!



10. Poisonous BB Gun


     Take about 1 cup of bleach and mix it with one cup vinegar and one

teaspoon of baking soda. Soak the BB's in this and go hunting.

Editors note: This is VERY painful, and not recommended



11. Simple Plastique (A more detailed explanation is the next chapter)

Ingredients:

one gallon of BLEACH
a heat source (fire,stove,etc)
white gasoline (avalable at camping supply stores)
a aluminum pan
distilled water
plastic bowl
Vaselene
wax
solar, or wick igniters
POTASSIUM CHLORATE (available at any grocery store substitute.)
a hydrometer

     First empty the bleach into the pan, and begin heating it. Add

PRECICLY 63 grams of Potassium Chlorate. Boil this until it reads 1.3

on the hydrometer. Remove, and place in a cool place, such as in a

refrigerator. Skim off the crystals and save them. Do it all again so

you have two sets of crystals. Mix EXACTLY 53 grams od crystals to

EXACTLY 100 milliliters of distilled water. Heat and save the crystals.

Powder them finely, and then heat it to dry off the moisture. Mix 1

part of this with 5 parts vaseline, 5 parts wax, and 5 parts gasoline.

Break off a piece.  A 2.9 gram piece will have the exlposion of one

stick of TNT!!!



12. Oven Cleaner Vaporizer


     Here's a neat trick by the author. Take about 3 feet of aluminum

foil, and spray a hell of a lot of oven clear on it. Wrap of the foil

into a loose ball and chuck it in an enclosed space, such as a locker,

car etc etc. It will fumigate the area and make it impossible to

breathe or see. WARNING: It will also heat up quite a bit, to the point

where it burns to touch. It probably won't ignite anything, but I

wouldn't risk it.




















                              Plastic Explosive



      This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is toxic and the

explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled,

ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin.  The toxicity of

this explosive restricts its use due to the fact that over exposure in

most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if

immediate treatment is not obtained.



     This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than

it's cousin. It's the first explosive used militarily and was adopted

in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was

derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this

explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic

acid.(aspirin purified).



     This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in

warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which

nitrates the purified aspirin. The whole mixture is then drowned in

water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is

called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this

explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form

dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and

aluminum. These salts are a primary explosive and are super sensitive.

They will also cause the detonation of the picric acid.



     Next needed is aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered

brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistency.

To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder

in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will

dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder

that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a

lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining

powder out of the alcohol.  Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it

to evaporate in a pyre dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will

be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.



     Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals

and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity

1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals.  This heating can be done

in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F.

and filled with a good cooking oil.



       When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take

the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of

the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good

ventilation system. It is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as

the whole procedure and any procedure in this book with good

ventilation or do it outside.  Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium

nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker

very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas

(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The

mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until

the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in

the beaker.  When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the

mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution

should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and

water. Brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water.  These should

be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling, distilled water.

Allow this to cool and then filter the crystals out of the water.

These crystals are very, very pure trinitrophenol.  Place these

crystals in a pyrex dish, put that in an oil bath and heat it to 80

deg.  C.  and keep it there for 2 hours. This temperature is best

maintained and checked with a thermometer. Powder the crystals in small

quantities to a face powder consistency. Combine these crystals (by

weight) with 10% wax and 5% Vaseline which you should heat to melting

temperature and poured into the crystals.  The mixing is best done by

kneading together with gloved hands.  This explosive should have a

useful plasticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should

be around 7000 m/sec..  It is toxic to handle but simply made from

common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a

moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped

charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive

as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make.

Again this explosive is very toxic and

should be treated with great care.  AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED,

BREATHING DUST AND FUMES. AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION.

AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE

RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT

WORTH IT. IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE

BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND

EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE CREATED AS NEEDED.

A V O I D   C O N T A C T   W I T H   A L L   M E T A L S

E X E P T   T I N   A N D   A L U M I N U M ! ! !



















                      Smoke Bombs and other Harmlessness



1. Smoke Bomb 1


Ingredients:
1 One tin can such as a soup can
4 parts sugar
6 parts Epsom salt


     Mix together. Put under a low flame such as a lighter or a small

fire. Let it sit over the fire until it starts to gel. Take it off, and

let it sit for a while until it hardens. Then you drop a match

in it or something then run because  four pounds of this thing will

fill a city block!



2. Smoke Bomb 2


At least 3 "D" size model rocket engines
4 tissues
A cloth
A hammer

     First strip off all of the paper on the engines. Then wrap the

 engines in the cloth. Crush the engines with a hammer (try not to make

sparks, or you'll ruin a good hammer and most of your face). Take this

powder and wrap in a tissue.  Light it, and it will make smoke.



3. Stink Bomb


By weight:

1 part potassium chlorate
1 part sugar
1 part formaldyhyde

     Mix this up, IT REEKS. Keep in a waterproof container.



4. Imitation Marijuana


     Marijuana Homemade, but it works!. First get a banana. Take the

peel off (eat the insides), and dry the peel it out until it's crumbly.

Crush it into small chunks. Believe me, it works.(Not as good as the

real stuff, but if you're too cheap to buy it...)


























































                   How to make Explosive Powders(gunpowder)



     All information contained in this file is purely for academic

study. I am not responsible for any injuries/damages arising from the

use of this information. Good luck.



     Flash Powder is a chemical mixture that burns extremely fast.

The mixture burns so fast that it appears to burn instantly, producing

a bright flash of light.

     Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts

larger than 4 ounces even when it is not contained. In very small

amounts flash powder will produce a very loud explosion when contained,

even in a container made of just a few layers of paper.

     Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that

will burn and an oxidizer.  Powdered aluminum is used the most because

it is cheaper. Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work.  The

oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate, Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide,

Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium

Chlorateassium Permanganate, and any combination of the above.  All the

chlorates (and the Permanganate) are friction and impact sensitive.

Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the Chlorates.

     All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder,

about 400 mil or smaller. 400 mil is about like common kitchen

type flour.

     Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder.  It has

a particle size of 400 mil for 98% of the aluminum material.  The other

2% is larger than 400 mil.  There are other aluminum powders that are

equal to or better than Black German Aluminum.  Aluminum Pyro Powder is

also a brand name.  The particle size is 70% 400 mil. the other 30% is

larger than 400 mil.



FLASH POWDER FORMULAS-

[1] This formula is one of the best.  It produces a very very extremely

loud explosion.  Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture

absorbent.  Not very sensitive to impact or friction.  Sodium Chlorate

or Potassium Chlorate can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but

then it becomes very sensitive to friction and impact.  4 ounces of

this mixture will produce an explosion equal to a stick of dynamite.



Potassium Perchlorate         2 oz.
Aluminum Powder (98% -400)    1 oz.



[2] This formula produces an extremely loud explosion that is almost as

good as #1. This is what almost all M-80s, firecrackers, etc. are made

with.



Potassium Perchlorate         2 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400)    1 oz.



[3] This formula is equal to #2 and is not sensitive to

friction or impact.

Bariue Peroxide                9 oz.
50%/50% magnesium/aluminum
powder (98% -200 mil)          1 oz.



[4] This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a

very  bright flash.  This is what used to be used for the photo

flash for the old box type cameras about 100 years ago.

Barium Nitrate                3 oz.
Potassium Perchlorate         3 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400)    4 oz.



[5] This formula works very good.  It is not very impact or

friction sensitive.  It produces a very, very loud explosion.

Potassium perchlorate contains 46.1914 percent oxygen. Almost

equal to #2.  Sulfur can be added to increase quantity of powder

without loosing too much power.

Potassium Perchlorate         2 oz.
Sulfur                        1 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400)    1 oz.



[5] This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage

of being moisture absorbent and is very impact and friction

sensitive.  Sodium Chlorate Contains 45.0937 percent oxygen.

Produces a very, very loud explosion.

Sodium Chlorate               2 oz.
Sulfur                        1 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400)    1 oz.



[7] This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive

to friction and impact and could explode during the

construction of any explosive device.  Potassium Chlorate

contains 39.1664 percent oxygen. This formula produces an

explosion almost equal to #5 and #6. Used in the manufacture

of toy cap pistol caps.

Potassium Chlorate            2 oz.
Sulfur                        1 oz.
Aluminum Powder               1 oz.



[8] This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact,

friction, and  static electricity, even more sensitive than

#7.  Extremely dangerous.  Will ignite even when wet.

Potassium Chlorate            6.7 oz.
Red Phosphorus                2.7 oz.
Sulfur                         .3 oz.
Calcium Carbonate              .3 oz.



[9] This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It

is slightly friction and impact sensitive. Potassium

Permanganate contains 40.4691 percent oxygen.  This formula

will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion.

Potassium Permanganate         2 oz.
Sulfur                         1 oz.
Aluminum Powder                1 oz.



[10] This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited

in a paper tube. A much louder explosion is produced when it

is ignited in a very strong container.  It is impact and

friction sensitive.

Potassium Chlorate             7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust                  1.5 oz.
Sulfur                         1.0 oz.



[11] This formula is a little louder than formula #10.  Impact

and friction sensitive.  Produces a small explosion in a paper

tube.

Sodium Chlorate                7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust                  1.5 oz.
Sulfur                         1.0 oz.









[12] No information is available about this formula.

Potassium Chlorate              6 oz.
Antimony Sulfide                3 oz.
Sulfur                          1 oz.



13. No information is available about this formula.

Potassium Chlorate             7.5 oz.
Gallic acid                    2.2 oz.
Red gum                        0.3 oz.









CAUTION
-------

     The mixture of any Fhlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely

sensitive to friction and percussion and explodes with great violence.

     Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium

nitrate explosives since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these

two substances are brought into contact, explodes.  When mixing

Chlorates with Sulfur, crush all the chemicals separately. Then place

all the chemicals in a bag to be mixed.  Hang the bag from the ceiling,

pole or a tree limb. A long pole is then attached to the bottom of the

bag.  The long pole is inserted through a wall and the operator stands

behind the wall for safety.  The operator can then shake the bag

safely.  4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as a

stick of dynamite. One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks

of dynamite.  8 ounces of powder will make 100 M-80's if each contains

1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.  M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon are almost as

loud but do not have quite the destructive force as the ones with 1/2

teaspoon of flash powder.









CHEMICALS
---------

     Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware

stores, drug stores, lumber yards, plumbing supply, cement companies

and many other stores.



Sodium Chlorate-         O2 solid oxygen pellets are made of about 90%
                         sodium chlorate.  O2 solid pellets are used in
                         small workshop torches.

Potassium Nitrate-       Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles.
                         Also sold at farmers co-op stores.



Sulfur-                  Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores, and lawn
                         and garden centers



Aluminum Powder-         Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores.
                         Aluminum powder can be found in radiator leaks


Sodium Nitrate-          Sold powder.  Sold by paint stores and auto
                         parts stores.



Antimony Sulfide.-       Is sold by most plumbing supply stores.


Potassium Permanganate-  It is used for water treatment.  Check your
                         phone book for water treatment equipment.


Ammonium Nitrate-        Can be bought from any farmers' co-op or
                         lawn and garden center.


Red Phosphorus-          The white tip on wooden matches contains red
                         Phosphorus.


     Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical

supplies. They will have almost all of the chemicals you need

in large quantities.  If you intend to make M-80's I strongly

recommend sending a SASE to this  company asking for their

catalog.



                    FULL AUTO

                    P.O. Box 1881

                    Murfreesboro, TN  37133
















                             Gunpowder Explosives



1. Arrow Rocket Launcher


     If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an

aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade

FFFF).  Then glue a shotshell primer into the hole where the ferrule

used to be. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go!

Make sure no one is nearby. Little shreds of aluminum go all over the

place!!



2. Special Effects Explosion


 2 teaspoons zinc powder
 1 teaspoon Potassium Chlorate
 3 teaspoons charcoal dust
 2 teaspoons Strontium Nitrate
 1/3 teaspoon Sulphur

     Here's a good terrorist explosive that is too good to be true.

It's more powerful than most *BLASTING* powders, lots of smoke, and a

nice red flame. I got a big whiff of the smoke and it gave me a

headache for about three hours. Great for parties.



3. Tennis Ball Bomb


     Take a tennis ball, and cut a slit in the top. Fill halfway up

with sand, then fill up the remaining half with gunpowder. Give it a

little lighter fluid, then shake well to mix the powders.  Causes

sand to shoot out with great force.



4. Tennis Ball Bomb Launcher


     Easy. Take 5 or six coffee cans, but out the bottoms except for

 one, and tie them together with duct tape. Fill the bottom of the can

with the powder from 3 or 4 large model rocket engines. Drill a hole in

the bottom of the can and insert a wick. Put a tennis ball inside the

can, light, and run. For added effectiveness, use a tennis ball made

like the one in number 2 above. Then again, it might just blow up in

your face.























































                              Making a Atom Bomb





PART 1- GETTING THE INGREDIENTS



   Uranium is the basic ingredient of the A-bomb. When a uranium atom's

nucleus splits apart it releases a tremendous amount of energy (for its

size), and it emits neutrons which go on to split other nearby uranium

nuclei, releasing more energy in what is called a 'chain reaction'.

(When atoms split matter is converted into energy according to

Einstein's equation E=mc2. What better way to mark his centennial than

with your own atomic fireworks?) There are two kinds (isotopes) of

uranium. One is the rare U-235 (used in bombs) and other is the more

common (heavier) but useless U-238. Natural uranium contains less than

1 percent U-235 and in order to be usable in bombs it has to be

'enriched' to 90 percent U-235 and only 10 percent U-238. Plutonium-

239 can also be used in bombs as a substitute for U-235.  Ten pounds of

U-235 (or slightly less plutonium) is all that is necessary for a bomb.

Less than ten pounds won't give you a critical mass.  So purifying or

enriching naturally occurring uranium is likely to be your first big

hurdle.  It is infinitely easierto steal ready-to-use enriched uranium

or plutonium than to enrich some yourself. And stealing uranium is not

as hard as it sounds.



    There are at least three sources of enriched uranium or plutonium.

Enriched uranium is manufactured at a gaseous-diffusion plant in

Portsmouth Ohio. From there it is shipped in 10 liter bottles by

airplane and trucks to conversion plants that turn it into uranium

oxide or uranium metal. Each 10 liter bottle contains 7 kilograms of

U-235, and there are 20 bottles to a typical shipment. Conversion

facilities exist at Hematite Missouri Apollo Pennsylvania and Erwin

Tennessee. The Kerr-McGee plant at Crescent Oklahoma where Karen

Silkwood worked was a conversion plant that 'lost' 40 lbs of plutonium.

Enriched uranium can be stolen from these plants or from fuel

fabricating plants like those in New Haven San Diego or Lynchburg

Virginia. (A former Kerr-McGee supervisor James V.  Smith when asked at

the Silkwood trial if there were any security precautions at the plant

to prevent theft testified that 'There were none of any kind,no guards

no fences no nothing.') Plutonium can be obtained from places like

United Nuclear in Pawling,New York,  Nuclear Fuel Services in Erwin,

Tennessee, General Electric in Pleasanton,California, Westinghouse in

Cheswick,Pennsylvania,  Nuclear Materials and Equipment Corporation

(NUMEC) in Leechburg,Pennsylvania and plants in Hanford,Washington and

Morris,Illinois. According to Rolling Stone magazine the Isrealis were

involved in the theft of plutonium from NUMEC.  Finally you can steal

enriched uranium or plutonium while it's en route from conversion

plants to fuel fabricating plants. It is usually transported (by air or

truck) in the form of uranium oxide, (a brownish powder resembling

instant coffee) or as a metal coming in small chunks called 'broken

buttons.' Both forms are shipped in small cans stacked in 5-inch

cylinders braced with welded struts in the center of ordinary 55-gallon

steel drums. The drums weigh about 100 pounds and are clearly marked

'Fissile Material' or 'Danger- Plutonium.' A typical shipment might go

from the enrichment plant at Portsmouth Ohio to the conversion plant in

Hematite Missouri then to Kansas City by truck where it would be flown

to Los Angeles and then trucked down to the General Atomic plant in San

Diego. The plans for the General Atomic plant are on file at the

Nuclear Regulatory Commission's reading room at 1717 H Street NW

Washington. A Xerox machine is provided for the convenience of the

public.  If you can't get hold of any enriched uranium you'll have to

settle for commercial grade(20 percent U-235). This can be stolen from

university reactors of a type called TRIGA Mark II -where security is

even more casual than at commercial plants.  If stealing uranium seems

too tacky you can buy it.  Unenriched uranium is available at any

chemical supply house for $23 a pound. Commercial grade (3 to 20

percent enriched) is available for $40 a pound from Gulf Atomic.

You'll have to enrich it further yourself. Quite frankly this can be

something of a pain in the ass.  You'll need to start with a little

more than 50 pounds of commercial grade uranium (it's only 20 percent

U-235 at best and you need 10 pounds of U-235 so...). But with a little

kitchen table chemistry you'll be able to convert the solid uranium

oxide you've purchased into a liquid form. Once you've done that You'll

be able to separate the U-235 you'll need from the U-238.  First pour a

few gallons of concentrated hydroflouric acid into your uranium oxide

converting it to uranium tetraflouride. (Safety note- Concentrated

hydroflouric acid is so corrosive that it will eat its way through

glass, so store it only in plastic. Used 2-gallon plastic milk

containers will do.) Now you have to convert your uranium tetraflouride

to uranium hexaflouride, (the gaseous form of uranium) which is

convenient for separating out the isotope U-235 from U-238.  To get the

hexaflouride form bubble flourine gas into your container of uranium

tetraflouride.  Flourine is available in pressurized tanks from

chemical-supply firms.  Be careful how you use it though because

flourine is several times more deadly than chlorine the classic World

War I poison gas. Chemists recommend that you carry out this step under

a stove hood (the kind used to remove unpleasant cooking odors).  If

you've done your chemistry right you should now have a generous supply

of uranium hexaflouride ready for enriching. In the old horse-and-

buggy days of A-bomb manufacture the enrichment was carried out by

passing the uranium hexaflouride through hundreds of miles of pipes,

tubes, and membranes until the U-235 was eventually separated from the

U-238. This gaseous-diffusion process, as it was called, is difficult

time consuming and expensive. Gaseous-diffusion plants cover hundreds

of acres and cost in the neighborhood of $2-billion each. So forget it.



     There are easier and cheaper ways to enrich your uranium.  First

transform the gas into a liquid by subjecting it to pressure.  You can

use a bicycle pump for this.  Then make a simple home centrifuge Fill a

standard-size bucket one quarter full of liquid uranium hexaflouride.

Attach a six-foot rope to the bucket handle. Now swing the rope (and

attached bucket) around your head as fast as possible.  Keep this up

for about 45 minutes. Slow down gradually and very gently put the

bucket on the floor. The U-235 (which is lighter) will have risen to

the top, where it can be skimmed off like cream.  Repeat this step

until you have the required 10 pounds of uranium.  (Safety note-Don't

put all your enriched uranium hexaflouride in one bucket. Use at least

two or three buckets and keep them in separate corners of the room.

This will prevent the premature build-up of a critical mass.) Now it's

time to convert your enriched uranium back to metal form This is easily

enough accomplished by spooning several ladlefuls of calcium (available

in tablet form from your drugstore) into each bucket of uranium. The

calcium will react with the uranium hexafloride to produce calcium

flouride, a colorless salt which can be easily be separated from your

pure enriched uranium metal.  A few precautions- Uranium is not

dangerously radioactive in the amounts you'll be handling. If you plan

to make more than one bomb it might be wise to wear gloves and a lead

apron (the kind you can buy in dental supply stores). Plutonium is one

of the most toxic substances known. If inhaled, even one-thousandth of

a gram can cause massive fibrosis of the lungs (a painful way to go).

Even a millionth of a gram in the lungs will cause cancer.  If eaten,

plutonium is metabolized like calcium.  It goes straight to the bones

where it gives out alpha particles preventing bone marrow from

manufacturing red blood cells. The best way to avoid inhaling plutonium

is to hold your breath while handling it. If this is too difficult wear

a mask. To avoid ingesting plutonium orally follow this simple rule

Never make an A-bomb on an empty stomach. If you find yourself dozing

off while you're working or if you begin to glow in the dark it might

be wise t take a blood count.  Prick your finger with a sterile pin,

and place a drop of blood on a microscope slide. Cover it with a cover

slip, and examine under a microscope (a low power kid's microscope

should do). If you count much over 0.3 percent white cells - call a

doctor. If you count more than 10%, call a morgue.



PART 2- STUFFING YOUR A-BOMB

     You will now have three or four bowls of uranium metal. Keep the

bowls covered, as you don't want your silvery white uranium to tarnish.

Now take about five pounds of the uranium and pack it into a

hemispheric steel bowl (a stainless-steel salad bowl should do).

Uranium is malleable, like gold, so you should have no trouble

hammering it into the bowl to get a good fit. Take another five pound

hunk o uranium and fit it into a second stainless steel bowl.  These

two bowls of U-235 are the 'subcritical masses' which when brought

together forcefully will provide the critical mass that makes your A-

bomb go.  Keep them a respectful distance apart while working because

you don't want them to 'go critical' on you...at least not yet.  Now

hollow out the body of an old vacuum cleaner and place your two

hemispherical bowls inside, open ends facing each other, no less than

seven inches apart, using masking tape to set them up in position. The

reason for the steel bowls and the vacuum cleaner (in case you're

wondering) is that these help reflect the neutrons back into the

uranium for a more efficient explosion. 'A loose neutron is a useless

neutron' as the

A-bomb pioneers used to say.  As far as the A-bomb goes you're almost

done.

     The final problem is to figure out how to get the two U-235

hemispheres to smash into each other with sufficient force to set off a

truly effective fission reaction.  Almost any type of explosive can be

used to drive them together. Gunpowder (for example) is easily made at

home from potassium nitrate, sulphur, and carbon. Or you can get some

blasting caps or TNT (buy them or steal them from a construction site.)

Best of all is C4 plastic explosive. You can mold it around your bowls

and it's fairly safe to work with (but it might be wise to shape it

around an extra salad bowl in another room and then fit it to your

stainless-steel bowls). Once the explosives are in place all you need

to do is hook up a simple detonation device with a few batteries a

switch and some wire. Remember though that it is essential that the

two charges one on each side of the casing go off at once.

   Now put the whole thing in the casing of an old Hoover vacuum

cleaner and your finished with this part of the process. The rest is

easy.  A word to the wise about wastes - After your A-bomb is completed

you'll have a pile of moderately fatal radioactive wastes like U-238.

These are not dangerous but you do have to get rid of them. You can

flush leftovers down the toilet (don't worry about polluting the

ocean, there is already so much radioactive waste there, a few more

bucketfuls won't make waves) Or, if your the fastidious type, the kind

who never leaves gum under their seat at the movies, you can seal the

nasty stuff in coffee cans and bury it in the backyard, just like

Uncle Sam does. If the neighbors' kids have a habit of trampling the

lawn tell them to play over by the waste. You'll soon find that

they're spending most of their time in bed.  Going first class- If

you're like us, you're feeling the economic pinch, and you'll want to

make your bomb as inexpensively as possible, consonant of course with

reasonable yield. The recipe we've given is for a budget-pleasing

H-bomb, no frills, nor flourishes. Just your basic 5-megaton bomb

capable of wiping out the New York metropolitan area, the Bay area, or

Boston. But don't forget, your H-bomb will only be as good as the

A-bombs in it. If you want to spend a little more money you can punch

up your A-bomb considerably.  Instead of centrifuging your uranium by

hand -you can buy a commercial centrifuge (Fisher Scientific sells one

for about $1000). You also might want to be fussier about your design.

The Hiroshima bomb, a relatively crude one, only fissioned 1 percent of

it's uranium and yielded only 13 kilotons.  In order to fission more of

the uranium, the force of your explosive 'trigger' has got to be evenly

diffused around the sphere, the same pressure has to be exerted on

every point of the sphere simultaneously.  (It was a technique for

producing this sort of simultaneous detonation by fashioning the

explosives into lenses that the government accused Julius and Ethel

Rosenberg of trying to steal).

MAKE THREE MORE A-BOMBS FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS ABOVE.



PART 3- PUTTING YOUR H-BOMB TOGETHER



     The heart of the H-bomb is the fusion process. Several A-bombs are

detonated in such a way as to create the extremely high temperature

(100 million degrees C) necessary to fuse lithium deuteride (LiD) into

helium.  When the lithium nucleus slams into the deuterium nucleus two

helium nuclei are created. If this happens to enough deuterium nuclei

rapidly enough the result is an enormous amount of energy. The

energy of the H-bomb.  And you don't have to worry about stealing

lithium deuteride it can be purchased from any chemical-supply house.

costs $1000 a pound. If your budget won't allow it you can substitute

lithium hydride at $40 a pound. You will need at least 100 pounds. It's

a corrosive and toxic powder so be careful. Place the lithium deuterid

or hydride in glass jars and surround it with four A-bombs in their

casings. Attach one to the same detonator so that they will go off

simultaneously. The container for the whole thing is no problem.  They

can be placed anywhere (inside an old stereo console, a discarded

refrigerator -etc.). When the detonator sets off the four A-bombs all

eight hemispheres of fissionable material will slam into each other at

the same time creating four critical masses and four detonations.  This

will raise the temperature of the lithium deuteride to 100 million

degrees C fast enough(a few billionths of a second) so that the lithium

will not be blown all over the neighborhood before the nuclei have time

to fuse.  The result at least 1000 times the punch of the puny A-bomb

that leveled Hiroshima (20 million tons of TNT vs.  20 thousand tons.)



PART 4- WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR BOMB

     Now that you have a fully assembled H-bomb housed in an attractive

console of your choice you may be wondering 'What should I do with it?'

Every family will have to answer this question according to its own

tastes and preferences but you may want to explore some possibilities

which have been successfully pioneered by the American government.



1.SELL YOUR BOMB AND MAKE A PILE OF MONEY

     In these days of rising inflation, rising unemployment, and an

uncertain economic outlook, few businesses make as much sense as

weapons production.  If your career forecast is cloudy, bomb sales may

be the only sure way to avoid the humiliation of receiving welfare or

unemployment. At any income level a home H-bomb business can be an

invaluable income supplement, and certainly a profitable alternative

to selling Tupperware or pirated Girl Scout cookies.  Unfortunately for

the family bomb business, big government has already cornered a large

part of the world market. However, this does not mean that there is a

shortage of potential customers. The raid on Entebee was the Waterloo

of hijacking and many nationalist groups are now on the alert for new

means to get their message across. They'd jump at the chance to get

hold of an H-bomb. Emerging nations that can't ante up enough rice or

sugar to buy themselves a reactor from G.E. or Westinghouse are also

shopping around. You may wonder about the ethics of selling to nations

or groups whose goal you disapprove of.  But here again take a tip from

our government 'Forget ideology!  It's cash that counts!!!'

     And remember H-bomb sales have a way of escalating almost like a

chain reaction. Suppose you make a sale to South Yemen which you

believe to be a Soviet puppet. Well within a few days some discrete

inquiries from North Yemen and possibly the Saudis, the Egyptions and

the Ethiopians as well can be expected. Similarly, a sale to the IRA

will generate a sale to the Ulster government. A sale to the Tanzanians

will bring the Ugandans running and so forth. It doesn't matter which

side you're on, only how many sides there are.

     Don't forget about the possibility of repeat sales to the same

customer.  As the experience of the U.S and the U.S.S.R. has shown

each individual nation has a potentially infinite need for H-bombs. No

customer, no matter how small, can ever have too many.



2.USE YOUR BOMB AT HOME

     Many families are attracted to the H-bomb simply as a 'deterrent'.

A discrete sticker on the door or on the living room window saying

'This Home Protected by H-Bomb' will discourage IRS investigators,

census takers, and Jehovah's Witnesses. You'll be surprised how fast

the crime rate will go down and property values will go up. And once

the news gets out that you are a home H-bomb owner you'll find that you

have unexpected leverage in neighborhood disputes over everything from

parking places and stereo noise levels to school-tax rates.  So relax

and enjoy the pride and excitement of home H-bomb ownership!



IS IT FOR YOU?

     Let's be honest. The H-bomb isn't for everyone. Frankly there are

people who can't handle it. They break out in hives at the very mention

of megadeaths, fallout, and radiation sickness.  The following quiz

will help you find out whether you have what it takes for home H-bomb

ownership. If you can answer 'yes' to six or more of these questions

then your emotionally eligible to join the nuclear club. If not, a

more conventional weapon may be more your cup of tea. Try botulism,

toxin, laser rays, or nerve gas.  Here's the quiz-



1. I have learned to say 'no' to the unfair demands of others.

2. I subscribe to one or more of the following: Soldier of Fortune,

   Hustler, Popular Mechanics, Self.

3. Though I have many interesting acquaintances ,I am my own best

   friend.

4. I know what to say after you say 'Hello' -but I am seldom interested

   in pursuing the conversation.

5. I have seen the movie 'The Deer Hunter' more than once.

6. I know that everone can be a winner if they want to, and I resent

   whiners.

7. I own one or more of the following- handgun, video game, trash

   compactor, snowmobile.

8. I am convinced that leukemia is psychosomatic.

9. I am aware that most vegetarians are sexually impotent.

10.I have read evidence that solar energy is a Communist conspiracy.



MYTHS ABOUT NUCLEAR WAR

     Ever since the first mushroom cloud over Hiroshima ushered in the

atomic age a small group of nay sayers and doommongers has lobbied,

campaigned and demonstrated to convince Americans that H-bomb

ownership, along with nuclear power, is dangerous and unhealthy.  Using

their virtual stranglehold over the media these people have tried to

discredit everything nuclear from energy to war. They have vastly over

rated the risks of nuclear bombs and left many Americans feeling

demoralized and indecisive, not sure where the truth lies. Well, here

are the myths, and here are the facts.



Myth- After a nuclear exchange the earth will no longer be suitable for

      human habitation.

Fact- This is completely false.  Even if humans succumbed many forms of life

      would survive a nuclear free-for-all such as cockroaches certain forms

      of bacteria and lichens.


Myth- Radiation is bad for you.

Fact- Everything is bad for you if you have too much of it. If you eat

      too many bananas you'll get a stomach-ache. If you get too much

      sun you can get sunburned (or even skin cancer).  Same thing with

      radiation.  Too much may make you feel under the weather, but

      nuclear industry officials insist that there is no evidence that

      low-level radiation has any really serious adverse effects, and

      high-level radiation may bring unexpected benefits.  It speeds up

      evolution by weeding out unwanted genetic types and creating new

      ones.  (Remember the old saying - 'Two heads are better than

      one.') Nearer home it's plain that radiation will get rid of

      pesky crab grass and weeds and teenagers will find that brief

      exposure to a nuclear burst vaporizes acne and other skin

      blemishes.  (Many survivors of the Hiroshima bomb found that they

      were free from skin and it's attendant problems forever.)


















                            Technical Information



EXPLOSIVE- Any material that produces a rapid, violent reaction when
           acted upon by heat or a strong blow. It must consist of
           A. An oxidizer, and B. A fuel.



There are four main groups of explosives--



PRIMARY EXPLOSIVES must be handled in small quantities. They are

extremely sensitive to heat, and even a spark of static electricity can

cause them to explode. Common primary explosives include lead azide,

lead styphnate, and mercury fulminate. They are chiefly used in devices

called detonators to set off other explosives.


HIGH EXPLOSIVES detonate with greater power than primary explosives

but are less sensitive. Common types of high explosives include

nitroglycerin, TNT, and PETN. They are used for blasting and excavating,

but they are also used by the miltary in bombs, shells, and grenades.


BLASTING AGENTS are the safest and least expensive explosives used

in industry. They are used to shatter rock. A common blasting agent

is dynamite.


LOW EXPLOSIVES burn rapidly rather then explode, such as gunpowder.

It is used as a propellant in guns and fireworks.



































                               This has been a

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                                  Production

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                            Look for more in 1992!



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