                               TABLE OF CONTENTS


         Introduction
            Warning ........................................... 1

         Chapter 1 - Low Explosives
            Blackpowder ....................................... 2
            Other Types of Blackpowder ........................ 3
            Zinc Explosive .................................... 4
            Water Fire Starter ................................ 4
            Explosive Misxtures ............................... 4

         Chapter 2 - High Explosives
            Astrolite ......................................... 6
            Astrolite A/A-1-5 ................................. 7
            Sodium Chlorate Explosives ........................ 7
            Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder ......................... 7
            Rocket Fuel ....................................... 7
            Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) ................ 7
            Incendiary Mixture ................................ 7
            Impact Mixture .................................... 8
            Filler Explosive .................................. 8
            Nitromethane Explosives ........................... 8
            Nitromethane 'solid' Explosives ................... 8
            Picric Acid ....................................... 8
            Tetryl ............................................ 9
            Plastic Explosives from Bleach .................... 9
            R.D.X. ............................................ 10
            Composition 'C' ................................... 12
            Composition C-2 and C-3 ........................... 12
            Gelatin Dynamite .................................. 14
            Peroxyacetone ..................................... 14
            Cellulose Nitrate (guncotton) ..................... 15
            Nitrogen Triiodide ................................ 15
            Nitroglycerine .................................... 15
            Making Sulfuric Acid .............................. 16
            T.N.T. (Trinitrotoulene) .......................... 16
            Mercury Fulminate ................................. 16

         Chapter 3 - Incendiaries
            Napalm ............................................ 17
            Thermite .......................................... 17
            Chemically Ignited Explosives ..................... 17

         Chapter 4 - Smoke Bombs
            Smoke Producer .................................... 18
            Smoke Bomb ........................................ 18
            HTH Chlorine Bomb ................................. 18
            Smoke Mixtures .................................... 19
            Chlorine and Turpentine ........................... 21

         Chapter 5 - Bombs
            Generic Bomb ...................................... 22
            Firebombs ......................................... 22
            Pipe Bomb ......................................... 22
            Contact Grenade ................................... 23
            Carbide Bomb ...................................... 24
            Hindenberg Bomb ................................... 24

                                                                     Page 1


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTRODUCTION
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The trouble with chemical books these  days, is that they never explain
in detail how to make something that you want.  Sure, they tell you how the
Chinese did it in 1500 or ten  centuries  ago.  But now days, that does not
help.  Even some of the army manuals don't even give you enough information
on HOW-TO-DO it.

    It's a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to
make something go "BOOM".  An interesting point to remember that it is much
easier to make a big explosion  than a small one.  It is very difficult for
a home expermienter to make  a  fire-cracker, but a bomb capable of blowing
the walls out of a building is easy.  You can find what you need in grocery
stores, hardware stores, and  farm  supplies.   Another,  but harder place,
to get chemicals is a chemical supply house.  These places can be dangerous
to your explosive career because some supply houses  were  told  to  report
people who buy chemicals in a certain combination. For example; If a person
were to buy tolulene, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid would be reported. The
reason:  those  chemicals  are  the  ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene
(TNT).

WARNING:
--------

    The actual construction of the devices and materials described in  this
text are dangerous, even for an experienced  chemist.  Also, the  construc-
tion or possession of  many of these devices would be in violation of  many
federal, state, and local laws.

The author or authors are not responsible for what damages or trouble  that
the missuse of the information  that  is stated herein.  Therefore you  are
responsible for all of your actions that you make. Intended for information
purposes only.

    So, As you can tell this text  is  not  meant  to  be read by the total
IDIOT!  Before you attempt at making any of the  devices  I  would  suggest
that you have some knowledge about chemistry.  Remember:  SAFTEY FIRST!!!


















                                                                     Page 2

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER ONE      [LOW EXPLOSIVES]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

  Low explosive are good for making a loud bang,  or  to  scare the living
daylight out of some poor person or even for making booby  traps.  In this
chapter  I  will  explain  the  making  of  many different  types  of  low
explosives.


BLACKPOWDER
-----------

    You will  need  potassium  or  sodium  nitrate,  sulfur,  and  hardwood
 charcoal.  The common name for  potassium  nitrate  is  saltpeter.  Sodium
 nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate of soda.  It is
 also called chile saltpeter.  Sodium nitrate make a slightly more powerful
 black powder but has a disadvantage because  it  will absorb moisture from
 the air.  So, if you use it then be sure to store  it  in a dry, air tight
 container.  You also can get sulfur at farm supplies as a  wetable  powder
 used  for spraying.  It is cheap and works well.  Some  drug  stores  sell
 sulfur under  the  name of flowers of sulfur.  If you use nitrate of soda,
 it will be in the form of  little  round beads.  Bake it in an over at 200
 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture.  Then  dump  a cup or
 two into a blender and switch it  on.  It  will  do  a  beautiful  job  of
 reducing it to powder.  Buy  a  bag  of  charcoal  briquettes at a grocery
 store.  Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with  a  hammer.  Dip  the
 results into the blender, grind, and strain through  a  tea strainer.  Mix
 by volume:

    6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate
    2 parts powdered charcoal
    1 part sulfur

This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly
confined.  It can  be  greatly  improved,  however,  by  processing  it  as
follows:

    Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between
    thumb and finger.

    Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan.

    Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes.

    Get it totally dry.  Grind into a fine a powder as possible with a
    mortar and pestle.

    If you use a blender at this  point, there is a danger of explosion.
    It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive
    to sparks.

    If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey
    powder.




                                                                     Page 3

OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER
--------------------------

    Below are eleven black/gun  powder  formulas.  They are more powerful
than the ordinary potassium nitrate  powder.  The  only  disadvantage (or
advantage) is that it is very  sensitive  to  sparks  and  some  leave  a
corrosive residue.  A word of caution: when  you  decide  to  make  these
compounds be careful for some of them might  decide to go up just because
they want to.

    [All chemicals are measured by volume]

 1:  Potassium perchlorate  69.2%
     Sulfur                 15.4%
     Charcoal               15.4%


 2:  Potassium nitrate      70.4%
     Sulfur                 19.4%
     Sodium sulfate         10.2%


 3:  Potassium nitrate      64.0%
     sulfur                 12.0%
     sawdust                17.0%
     charcoal                7.0%


 4:  Potassium nitrate      50.0%
     Ammonium perchlorate   25.0%
     Sulfur                 12.5%
     charcoal               12.5%


 5:  Barium nitrate         75.0%
     Charcoal               12.5%
     Sulfur                 12.5%


 6:  Sodium peroxide        67.0%
     Sodium thiosulphate    33.0%


 7:  Potassium chlorate     75.0%
     Sulfur                 12.5%
     Charcoal               12.5%


 8:  Potassium nitrate      79.0%
     straw charcoal         12.0%
     sulfur                 12.0%


 9:  Potassium nitrate      70.6%
     Sulfur                 23.5%
     Antimony sulfate        5.9%


                                                                     Page 4

10:  Potassium nitrate      37.5%
     Starch                 37.5%
     Sulfur                 18.75%
     Antimony powder         6.25%

11:  Guanidine nitrate      49.0%
     Potassium nitrate      40.0%
     Charcoal               11.0%


     The above chemical ratios are percentages.  When making the stuff, be
sure to grind up all the  ingredients  as  fine  as you possibly can.  The
finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode.



ZINC EXPLOSIVE
--------------

To make a big flash of flames almost instantly try mixing:

         1 part Zinc dust
         1 part Sulfur

When these two mix together they  will  burst  into flame almost instantly!
Be careful for it does go off in a sudden flash and can singe anything that
it is around if not expecting it.  This is not a  powerful explosive but it
is violent even when not confined, so be careful.



WATER FIRE STARTER
------------------

  So,  do you think water puts out  fires?  In  this  one,  it  starts  it.
Mixture:  ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a
drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which
reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat.  The  heat vaporizes the
iodine (giving off purple smoke) and  the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
when mixed with  iodine  vapor).  It  will  ignite  the  hydrogen and begin
burning.

     Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams
     Ammonium choride: 1 gram
     Zinc dust       : 8 grams
     Iodine crystals : 1 gram



EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES
------------------

   Following is a list of chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained.
You will also  find the chemical symbol of another chemical which explodes
on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the ever so useful
pipe bomb.

Just for the people that don't know:
                                                                     Page 5

CHEMICAL                                       EXPLODES WITH
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Acetic acid                                    H2SO4  HNO3
Acetic anhydride                               H2SO4  HNO3
Acrolein                                       H2SO4  HNO3
Allyl alcohol                                  H2SO4  HNO3
Allyl chloride                                 H2SO4  HNO3
Aniline                                        H2SO4  HNO3
Aniline acetate                                H2SO4  HNO3
Aniline hydrochloride                          H2SO4  HNO3
Benzoyl peroxide                               H2SO4  HNO3
Cyanic acid                                    H2SO4  HNO3
Chlorosulfonic acid                            H2SO4  HNO3
Dimethyl keytone                               H2SO4  HNO3
Epichlorohydrin                                H2SO4  HNO3
Ethylene diamine                               H2SO4  HNO3
Ethylene imine                                 H2SO4  HNO3
Hydrogen peroxide                              H2SO4  HNO3
Isoprene                                       H2SO4  HNO3
Mesityl oxide                                  H2SO4  HNO3
Acetone Cyanohydrin                            H2SO4
Carbon disulfide                               H2SO4
Cresol                                         H2SO4
Cumene                                         H2SO4
Diisobutylene                                  H2SO4
Ethylene cyanohydrin                           H2SO4
Ethylene glycol                                H2SO4
Hydrofluoric acid                              H2SO4
Cyanide of sodium                                     HNO3
Cyclohexanol                                          HNO3
Cyclohexanone                                         HNO3
Ethyl alcohol                                         HNO3
Hydrazine                                             HNO3
Hydriodic acid                                        HNO3
Isopropyl ether                                       HNO3
Manganese                                             HNO3

H2SO4 - Sulfuric Acid
HNO3  - Nitric Acid



















                                                                     Page 6

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER TWO         [HIGH EXPLOSIVES]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Now, here I stress the  word  of saftey.  These explosive compounds can
remove a limb or kill you.  So I would suggest, before you even think about
trying any of these, that you  have  some background knowledge on explosive
or  chemistry.  These  explosives  range  from  sound  sensitive  to  water
sensitive or electrically ignited.

    It takes time and patience to make high explosive compounds.  Some  are
easier than the others and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible  to
find.  In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed  her e you will
have  to  go though a chemical supply house.  Remember  that  some  of  the
chemical  houses  have  been  told  to  notify  the  police  if  a  certain
combination  of  chemicals  are  ordered  then  send  the  name and all the
information about that person ordering to the police.  And  it is  possible
that you might get a little visit from the city law.  Also,  making, using,
selling, or possession of many of the explosives  are  illegal  and  a hard
penalty can rise.  Even for first offenders.  Take this warning.  Its true!


ASTROLITE
---------

     The astrolite family of liquid explosives  were  products  of rocket
propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to  be  the
world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more
powerful than TNT.  Being more powerful it is also safer to  handle  than
TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.

     "Astrolite G  is  a  clear  liquid  explosive especially designed to
produce very high detonation  velocity,  8,600MPS (meters/sec.)  compared
with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT. In addition, a very
unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to
be absorbed easily into  the  ground while remaining detonable...In field
tests, Astrolite G has remained  detonable for 4 days in the ground, even
when the soil was soaked  due  to  rainy weather know what that means?...
Astrolite Dynamite!

     To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) two parts by weight
of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by  weight  'anhydrous' hydrazine,
produces Astrolite G... Feel free to use different ratios.

     Hydrazine is the chemical  you'll  probably  have  the  hardest  time
getting hold  of.  Uses  for  Hydrazine  are:  Rocket  fuel,  agricultural
chemicals  (maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension),
polymerization catalyst, plating metals  on  glass  and  plastics,  solder
fluxes, photographic developers, diving  equipment.  Hydrazine is also the
chemical you should be careful with.








                                                                     Page 7

ASTROLITE A/A-1-5
-----------------

Ok, here's the good part...

Mix 20%(weight) aluminum powder to  the  ammonium nitrate,and then mix with
hydrazine.  The aluminum powder should be  100  mesh or finer.  Astrolite A
has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.

You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water.  Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.


SODIUM CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES
--------------------------

Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute.  Sodium  chlorate  is  also more soluble in water. You can find
sodium chlorate at Channel or any  hardware/home  improvement store.  It is
used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.


SODIUM CHLORATE GUNPOWDER
-------------------------

65% sodium chlorate
22% charcoal
13% sulphur

and sprinkle some graphite on top.


ROCKET FUEL
-----------

6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.


ROCKET FUEL 2 (better performance)
----------------------------------

50% sodium chlorate
35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin hardener
 5% sulphur

You may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are
using.


INCENDIARY MIXTURE
------------------

55% aluminum powder (atomized)
45% sodium chlorate
5%  sulphur

                                                                     Page 8

IMPACT MIXTURE
--------------

50% red phosphorus
50% sodium chlorate

Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when
mixed with phosphorus.  It has to be hit to be detonated.


FILLER EXPLOSIVE
----------------

85% sodium chlorate
10% vaseline
 5% aluminum powder


NITROMETHANE EXPLOSIVES
-----------------------

Nitromethane (CH3NO2)
Specific gravity: 1.139
Flash point     : 95f
Auto-ignite     : 785f

Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.

      Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes,
            fats, etc.

To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:

1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline

Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of
              6,200MPS.


NITROMETHANE 'SOLID' EXPLOSIVES
-------------------------------

2 parts nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)

Soak for 3-5 min. when done, store in an air-tight container. This is
supposed to  be  30%  more  powerful  than  dynamite  containing  60%
nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance.


PICRIC ACID
-----------

    Phenol  is  melted  and  then  mixed  with  a  concentrated solution of
sulfuric  acid.  The mixture is  constatnly stirred and  kept  at  a steady
temperature of 95 degrees Celsius for  four to six hours  depending  on the
quantities of phenol used.  After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted
                                                                     Page 9

with distilled water, and an  equal  excess amount of nitric acid is added.
The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will
produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly but more
importantly the temperature of the solution  must  not go above 110 degrees
Celsius.  Ten or so minutes after  the  addition  of nitric acid the picric
acid will be fully formed and you can drain off the excess acid.  It should
be filtered and  washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid
is present. When washing, use only cold water.  After this, the pircic acid
should  be  allowed  to  partially  dry.  Picric  acid  is  a more powerful
explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages.  It  is more expensive to
make, and it best handled in a wet 10  percent  distilled  water  form   as
pictic becomes very unstable when  completely  dry.  This  compound  should
never be put into  direct  contact  with  metal, since instantly on contact
there is a formation  of  metal  picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon
formation.


TETRYL
------

    A small amount of dimethyllaniline  is  dissolved  in  an excess amount
of concentrated sulfuric acid.  This mixture  is  now  added  to  an  equal
amount of nitric acid.  The new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well
stirred. After about five minutes,  the tetrylis filtered and  then  washed
in cold water.  It is now boiled in  fresh  water,  which  contains a small
amount  of   sodium  bicarbonate.  This  process  acts  to  neutralize  any
remaining acid.  The  washings  are  repeated  as  many  times as necessary
according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl
is free of acids, filter it from the water and allowed to dry.  When tetryl
is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT.


PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH
-----------------------------

     This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive.  This explosive  and
explosives of similar composition  were  used in WWI as the main  explosive
filler in grenades, land mines, and morter  rounds used by French,  German,
and some other forces involved in that conflict.

     These explosives are relatively  safe to manufacture.  The  procedures
in the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care.

     One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from  sulfur,
sulfides,  and  picric  acid.  The  presence  of  these compounds result in
mixtures that  are or can become highly sensitive  and  possibly  decompose
explosively while in storage.  One should never store home made explosives,
make enough for what you need at the time.  YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS
UNTIL IT BLOWS!

     The  manufacter  of  this  explosive  from  bleach is given just as an
expediant method.  This method of manufacturing  potassium  chlorate is not
economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution  and cause
the "Dissociation" reaction to take place.  The  procedure  does  work  and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product.

     These explosives are  very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
instigating detonation.
                                                                    Page 10

     To   manufacture   potassium   chlorate  from  bleach,  (5.25%  sodium
hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat  source,  hot-plate,  stove , etc., a
battery hydrometer, a  large  pyrex  or  enameled steel container, a triple
beam balance (to weigh chemicals),  and  some  potassium chloride, (sold as
salt substitute).

     Take  one  gallon  of  bleach  and place it in the container and begin
heating it.  While  this solution  heats,  weigh  out  63  grams  potassium
chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.  Bring this solution to a
boil and boil until when checked  with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if
battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge).

     When the  reading  is  1.3  take  the  solution and let it cool in the
refrigerator until it is between room temperature  and  0  degrees Celsius.
Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them.  Boil this solution
again and cool as before.  Filter and save the crystals.

     Take these crystals that  have  been saved and mix them with distilled
water in the  following proportions:  56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled
water. Heat that  solution until it boils  and  allow  to cool.  Filter the
solution and save the crystals  the  form  upon  cooling.  This p rocess of
purification is called fractional crystalization.  These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate.

     Powder these to the consistancy of face  powder  and  heat  gently  to
drive off all moisture.

     Melt five parts vaseline and five parts  wax.  Dissolve  this in white
gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl.

     Knead this  liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed.
Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.

     Place this  explosive  in  a  cool dry place.  Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phophorous compounds.  This  explosive  is best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and  dipped  in  wax  till
water proof.  These block type  charges  guarantee  the  highest detonation
velocity.


RDX
---

   THE  PRODUCTION OF  RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE
DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS.

   Since the first part  of  WWII the armed forces of the United States has
been  searching  for  the  perfect  plastique  explosives  to  be  used  in
demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition
plastique explosives.  Of  this group  C-4  being  the  lastest formulation
that has been readily adopted by the armed  forces.  This  formulation  was
preceded by C-3, C-2, and C.  In  this  series  of  articles,  I will cover
all  these  explosives  in their chronological  progression  as  they  were
developed and standardized  by  the armed forces.  All these explosives are
cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with  various  plastisizing  agents used to achieve
the desired product.  This plastisizer,  usually  composes  7%-20%  of  the
total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is
                                                                    Page 11

manufactured   in   bulk   by   the  nitration  of  hexamethylenetetramine,
(methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.)  with strong red 100% nitric acid.  The
hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric  acid.  It  will
most likely have to be made.  More  on this later.  Hexamine or methenamine
can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine  fuel  bars  fo r camp
stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive.  To use  the  fuel
bars the need to be powered before hand.  The  hexamine  can  also  be made
with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde
solution.  To  make  this  componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water
in a shallow pyrex dish.  To this add 500 ml. of the  formaldehyde solution
to the ammonia water.  Allow this to evaporate and  when  the  crystals are
all that remains in the pan place the pan in the  oven  on  the lowest heat
that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off
any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight
jar  to  store  them  until they are used.  To make the red nitric acid you
will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper.  In the retort place
32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and  to  this add 68 grams of potassium
nitrate or 58  grams of sodium nitrate. Gently  heating  this  retort  will
generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide.  THIS  GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS
AND THIS  STEP,  AS  WITH  ALL  OTHER  STEPS,  SHOULD  BE  DONE  WITH  GOOD
VENTILATION.  This  nitric  acid that is formed will collect in the neck of
the retort and form droplets that will  run  down the inside of the neck of
the retort and should be caught in a beaker  cooled  by being surrounded by
ice water.

   This should  be  heated  till no more collects in the neck of the retort
and the nitric acid quits dripping  out  of the neck into the beaker.  This
acid  should  be  stored  until enough acid is  generated  to  produce  the
required size batch  which  is  determined  by  the  person  producing  the
explosive.  Of course  the  batch  can  be  larger  or smaller but the same
rations should be maintained.  To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric
acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath.
50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added  in small portions making sure
that the temperature of the acid DOES  NOT  GO  ABOVE  30  DEGREES CELCIUS.
This temperature can be monitored by  placing a thermometer directly in the
acid   mixture.  During  this  procedure  a  vigorous  stirring  should  be
maintained.  If the  temperature approaches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE
ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until  the  temperature  drops  to  an  acceptable
level.  After the addition is complete continue the stirring  and allow the
temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay  there for 20
minutes coninuing the vigorous stirring.  After the 20 minutes are up, pour
this acid-hexamine mixture into  1000 ml.  of finely crushed ice and water.
Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid.  The crystals that
are filtered out are R.D.X.  and  will  need to have all traces of the acid
removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting
them in ice water and shaking and  refiltering.  These  crystals  are  then
placed in a little boiling water and filtered.  Place  them  in  some  warm
water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper.
You  want  it  to  read  between  6  and  7  on  the  Ph  scale.  If  there
is still  acid  in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid
is removed and  the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to
7 the better).  To  be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until
ready for use.  THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY  HIGH  EXPLOSIVE  AND  SHOULD  BE
TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful
than T.N.T.  To use, these will need to  be  dryed  for  some  manufaturing
processes in the next few articles.  To dry these crystals, place them in a
pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the
are  completely dry.  This explosive will detonate in this  dry  form  when
                                                                    Page 12

pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550
M/second!


COMPOSITION 'C'
---------------

   All of the  type  'C'  plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and
C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care.

   This explosive is  just  a copy of a British  explosive that was adopted
early in WWII.  This  explosive  is the choice  explosive  of  the type 'C'
compounds  because  of its  relative  ease  of  manufacture  and  the  easy
aquisition of  the plastizer compound.  This  explosive  was  available  in
standard demolition blocks.

   This   explosive  was  standardized   and  adopted  in   the   following
composition:

R.D.X.......................... 88.3%
Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1%
Lecithin....................... 00.6%

(all percentages are by weight)

   In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large
crystals of R.D.X.  which would  increase the sensitivity of the explosive.
This explosive has a  good  deal  of  power  and  is  relatively  non-toxic
(except when ingested).

   It is also plastic  from  0-40  degrees  celcius.  Above  40 degrees the
explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy  although  its  explosive
properties go relatively unimpaired.  Below  0  degrees  celcius it becomes
brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably.

   Manufacturing this explosive  can  be  done  two  ways.  First  being to
dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and  mixing  with  the
R.D.X. and allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the  mixture is free of
all gasoline.

   The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound
into the R.D.X.  until a uniform mixture is obtained.

   This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place.  If  properly  made
the plastique should be  very  stable in storage even if stored at elevated
temparatures for long periods of time.

   It should be very cap sensitive.  A  booster  will  be  a  good  choice,
especially if used below 0 degrees celcius.  This  detonates  at a velocity
of 7900/MPS.


COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3
-----------------------

   These are highly undesirable because of certain  trait each has and they
don't produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds.

                                                                    Page 13

   It is not recommended you make  these  two types of plastique, this part
was written for imformatative  purposes  only.

   Composition 'C-2' is harder to make  than  'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE.
It is also  unstable in storage  and  is  poor  choice  for  home explosive
manufacture. It also has a  lower  detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or
'C-3'.

   It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the
same  procedure used in incorperation  of  'C-3'.  Its  composition  is  as
follows:

R.D.X................... 80%
Mononitrotolulene....... 5%
Dinitrotolulene......... 5%
T.N.T. guncotton........ 5%
Dimethylformide......... 5%

(see below for rest of recipe)

   'C-3' was  developed  to  eliminate  the  undesirable  aspects of 'C-2'.
It was standardized and adopted by the military as  following  composition:

R.D.X................ 77%
Mononitrotolulene.... 16%
Dinitrotolulene...... 5%
Tetryl............... 1%
T.N.T. guncotton..... 1%

   'C-3'  is  manufactured by mixing  the  plastisizing  agent  in  a steam
jacketed melting kettle equipped  with  a  mechanical  stirring attachment.
The kettle  is  heated  to  90-100  degrees  celcius  and  the  stirrer  is
activated.  Water wet R.D.X. is added to the  plastisizing  agent  and  the
stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has
been driven off.  Remove the heat source but  continue  to stir the mixture
until it has cooled to room temperature.

    This explosive is as sensitive  to  impact  as is T.N.T.  Storage at 65
degrees celcius for four months at a relative  humidity  of  95%  does  not
impair it's explosive properties.

   'C-3' is 133%  as  good as an explosive as T.N.T.  The major drawback of
'C-3' is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although
the explosives detonation properties are not affected.

   Water does not affect  explosives preformance.  Thus it is very good for
under-water demolition uses  and  would  be  a  good  choice  for  such  an
application.

   When stored  at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place.
It will become hard  at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this
temperature.

   While this explosive  is  not  unduely toxic,  it should be handled with
care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds  which  are  absorbed  through the
skin.


                                                                    Page 14

   It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a
booster is always  suggested.  This  explosive has a great blast effect and
was avaliable in standard demolition  blocks.  Its  detonation  velocity is
approximately 7700 MPS.


GELATIN DYNAMITE
----------------

   Below are five different ways to make a very common explosive. Dynamite.

1)  Nitro........................ 12%
    Guncotten.................... .5%
    Amonium nitrate.............. 87.5%

2)  Nitro........................ 88%
    Potassium nitrate............ 5%
    Tetryl....................... 7%

3)  Nitro........................ 24%
    Guncotten.................... 1%
    Amonium nitrate.............. 75%

4)  Nitro........................ 75%
    Guncotten.................... 5%
    Potassium nitrate............ 15%
    Wood meal.................... 5%

5)  Nitro........................ 80%
    Ethalyne glycol dinitrate.... 20%


After making  this  stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end.
But  be  careful  for  it  might  be  a  little  unstable  because  of  the
nitroglycerine (nitro).  Before  it is totally dry stick a good fuse in one
of the ends.  Light, Throw, and run as if your  life depended on it!  Which
in a way it does.


PEROXYACETONE
-------------

Peroxyacetone is VERY flamable & has been reported to be shock sensitive.

Materials:

  4ml of Acetone
  4ml of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
  4 of drops conc. hydrochloric acid
  150mm test tube

    Add 4ml acetone and 4ml  hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4
drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should
begin to appear. If no change is  observed,  warm  the test tube in a water
bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the
slurry and filter it.  Leave  out  on  filter paper to dry for at least two
hours.  To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while
staying at LEAST a meter away).
                                                                    Page 15

CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON)
-----------------------------

    Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that it
does not give off smoke when it burns.

Materials:

  70ml of concentrated sulfuric acid
  30ml of concentrated nitric acid
  5g of absorbent cotton
  250ml of sodium bicarbonate
  250ml beaker
  ice bath
  tongs
  paper towels

   Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric
acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs,  immerse each piece in the
acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of
500ml water.  Use fresh water for each piece.  Then immerse in 250ml sodium
bicarbonate. If  it bubbles, rinse in water once  more  until  no  bubbling
occurs.  Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.


NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
------------------

    This is  very  shock sensitive  when it comes to being agitated, moved,
dropped, touched,  breathed  on... etc.  For  one thing I hope you don't do
any of those.  This has a high explosive value to it.  It can move a lot of
mass with just a little compound.  I  have  heard so many different ways to
make this, and this is the best one.  I think.

    Take a medium glass and fill it up  with  ammonium hydroxide (household
ammonia).  Take  some iodine crystals and pour  about a fourth of the glass
full.   Wait  about 30  minutes  to  an  hour  then  pour  off  the  liquid
remaining.  Now, what you have in the  glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide,
which is very sensitive to touch.  But, it  is  perfectly  save  when it is
wet.  Thats why  you  do  not  let  it  dry  until  you want to use it.  To
detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on  an  object  and  wait  till
omething agitates it.  Remember too much can harm a lot of things.  It does
pack a wallop!


NITROGLYCERIN
-------------

    Nitroglycerin  is  a  very  high  explosive.  It is used all around the
world to do  many different types of  jobs.  To make nitro here is what you
have to do:

    By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid.
The  mixed  acid  is composed of 40% nitric  and  60%  sulfuric  acid.  The
sulfuric acid  is  slowly added to the nitric acid  with constant stirring.
Never mix them the other way round for  they  will  splatter.  Each part of
glycerin  will  yield  2.3  parts  of  nitroglycerin.  The temperature when
adding  the  glycerin  to  the  acids should  never  go  above  25  degrees
                                                                    Page 16

centigrade.  If it does or if red  fumes  appear, the whole mess should  be
dumped into cold water fast.  Do not  take this as an encouragement to make
nitroglycerin.  It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids
together and can easily be lost control of.


MAKING SULFURIC ACID
--------------------

    No, your not really MAKING sulfuric  acid,  you are just making it more
concentrated.  All you need to do is to take a old car battery and dump all
of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a stove.  Do not use metal
for unwanted occurances could come about.  Just  take the old acid and boil
it until you see white fumes come out.  When  you  do  immediately turn off
the heat and let it cool.  One thing,  DO NOT  use  a  gas  stove.  Use  an
electric hot plate & make it outside because the fumes are very  poisonous.


T.N.T    (Trinitrotoulene)
--------------------------

    Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid.  The acid being composed of:
2 parts 70% nitric acid and  3  parts  100%  sulfuric  acid.  Mix  below 30
degrees.  Set this for 30 minutes and let  seperate.  Take  the  mononitro-
toluene and mix with 100 parts of  it  with  215  parts of acid.  This acid
being composed of:  1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid.
Keep the temperature at 60 -70 degrees while they are slowly  mixed.  Raise
temperature to 90 - 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes.

    The  dinitrotoulene  is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with
225 parts of  20%  oleum,  which  is  100%  sulfuric  acid  with  20% extra
dissolved sulfur  trioxide,  and  64 parts nitric acid.  Heat at 95 degrees
for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for  90 minutes. Seperate the trini-
trotoluene and  slosh  it around in hotwater.  Purify the powder by soaking
it in benzene.


MERCURY FUMLMINATE
------------------

    Mix 2 parts of  Nitric  Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part
mercury.  This is very shock sensitive explosive.  Be careful, Nitric Acid
is an unstable acid.  It will react to agitation.















                                                                    Page 17

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER THREE       [INCENDIARIES]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    What is an incendiary?  Those  are compounds that do not go "boom", but
can burn fast and generate  a  lot  of heat.  For example, thermite, its an
incendiary, because it can produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and
can even melt metal.


NAPALM
------

    This  is  just  gasoline  in a thickend form.  What it does is burn for
long periods of time.  If it is made right I hear that water can't even put
it out.  What you do is take some  polystyrine  (styrofoam) and place it in
some unleaded gasoline (unleaded works better).  Keep  feeding styrofoam to
the gas until you can not feed any more at all.  At  points  it  will  look
like thats all it can take, just wait for  a  minute and let  the other gas
rise to the top.  It will take a lot of stryrofoam  until  you get what you
want.  When it is done, it will burn for a long time.  I would suggest that
you do not place any on you because once it is  lit  it  will  travel quite
quickly since it melts the thickend gasoline  and  it  rolls down.  This is
also fun to play with.  The only  problem with it  is it gives off too much
smoke (which, I may add - is poison).


THERMITE
--------

    This is the arsonists dream!  Thermite is a very hot mixture.  Although
it is slightly hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it.  Here is
what you do:  Thermite  is  made  from  powdered  aluminum  and  iron oxide
(rust).  Mix two parts by volume  powdered  alumnium  with three parts iron
oxide.  This stuff is hard to light,  but  once you get it going don't plan
on putting it out, because it can produce  enough  heat  to  melt through a
steel plate.  The finer the ingredients  are  the  easier  it  will  be to
ignite.


CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES
-----------------------------

    A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose)
burns  fiercely  and  brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1
drop of concentrated  sulfuric  acid is placed on it.  What occurs is this:
when  the acid is added it reacts  with  the  potassium  chlorate  to  form
chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.










                                                                    Page 18

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER FOUR          [SMOKE BOMBS]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    So, you want  a  smoke screen?  Well this chapter will explain how many
different types of smoke can be made.  Even colored smoke.



SMOKE PRODUCER
--------------

    The following reaction should produce a fair  amount of smoke.  Since
this reaction is not  all  that dangerous  you  can use larger amounts if
necessary for larger amounts of smoke.

   6g zinc powder
   1g sulfur powder

    Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
be created.


SMOKE BOMB
----------

This is the father of all smoke bombs.  Mix:

         2 part Potassium Nitrate
         1 Part Granulated sugar.

     Put this under a very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium
nitrate.  After it is melted let it set and  get  hard.  When it gets hard,
just take outside and hold a lit match on  an  area   of the smoke bomb and
wait till it lights.  You will know when it  is about to ignite because the
stuff turns black and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of
the compound.  You also can light it  without  melting  it but it burns too
fast and will make a hudge flame while the other one does not.


HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB
-----------------------

    Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two
together in a ratio of 4 parts  chlorine  to  1 part brake fluid.  When you
mix the two together they will begin to sizzle  and  then  it will begin to
smoke.  It will take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully.  When it does
begin to smoke it will produce  a  stinking cloud of thick white smoke.  If
you do not be careful it could burst into flames and burn what it is in.  I
suggest to place the mixture in a glass  container for  it  gets  real hot.
And anybody in their right mind will not go  pick it up and try to throw it
when it has done smoking.  The  smoke  is  known to last for over 2 minutes
and is also toxic because it produces chlorine gas, which is deadly!





                                                                    Page 19

SMOKE MIXTURES
--------------


[Black]

Hexachloroethane......... 60%
Anthracene............... 20%
Magnesium (powder)....... 20%

[Brown]

Pitch.................... 29.2%
Potasium Nitrate......... 47.4%
Borax.................... 10.6%
Calcium Carbonate......... 4.9%
Sand...................... 4.0%
Sulfur.................... 3.9%

[Grey]

Hexachloroethane......... 50%
Zinc Powder.............. 25%
Zinc Oxide............... 10%
Potassium Nitrate........ 10%
Colophony Resin........... 5%

[Grey]

Hexachloroethane......... 45.5%
Zinc Oxide............... 45.5%
Calcium Silicide.......... 9.0%

[White]

Potassium Chlorate....... 20%
Ammonium Chloride........ 50%
Naphthalene.............. 20%
Charcoal................. 10%

[White]

Potassium nitrate........ 48.5%
Sulfur................... 48.5%
Realgar................... 3.0%

[White]

Potassium Nitrate........ 50%
Sugar.................... 50%

[Yellow]

Potassium Nitrate........ 25%
Sulfur................... 16%
Realgar.................. 59%


                                                                    Page 20

[White]

Potassium nitrate......... 6%
Antimony sulfide.......... 1%
Powdered sulfur........... 1%

[Yellow]

Potassium nitrate......... 4%
Powdered sulfur........... 1%
Charcoal.................. 2%
Sodium chloride........... 3%

[Yellow]

Powdered sulfur........... 4%
Charcoal.................. 1%
Potassium nitrate........ 24%
Sodium carbonate.......... 6%

[Red]

Strontium nitrate......... 4%
Powdered orange shellac... 1%

[Red]

Strontium nitrate........ 11%
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
Charcoal.................. 1%
Calcium carbonate........ 11%
Potassium nitrate......... 1%

[Purple]

Copper sulfate............ 1%
Strontium nitrate......... 1%
Powdered sulfur........... 1%
Charcoal.................. 1%
Potassium nitrate......... 3%

[Green]

Barium nitrate............ 7%
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
Charcoal.................. 1%
Potassium nitrate......... 1%

[Green]

Barium chlorate........... 9%
Powdered orange shellac... 1%

[Blue]

Anitmony sulfide.......... 2%
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
Potassium nitrate........ 12%
                                                                    Page 21

[Blue]

Potassium nitrate........ 12%
Powdered sulfur........... 3%
charcoal.................. 1%
Copper sulfate............ 2%
Powdered rosin............ 1%


CHLORINE & TURPENTINE
---------------------

    Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it
into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and
probably start burning...











































                                                                    Page 22

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER FIVE             [BOMBS]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

   This is the point I really stress the word  saftey!  At  this  point  it
should  be  well  excercised  and  you  had better know  what you are doing
before you even attempt to construct some of these  devices.  Remember that
the law prohibits the manufacture and use of such devices, and you could be
breaking the law in some places.  If you do  make on of the devices that is
listed in here then I would suggest you make  a  prototype and set that one
off in the country and if it worked correctly then make your final  one and
use it the way you had in mind.


GENERIC BOMB
------------

    Aquire a glass container.  Put in a few drops of gasoline.  Cap the top
and turn the  container  around to coat the inner surface.  Add a few drops
of potassium permanganate  (found  in a snake-bite kit) .  To detonate just
throw against a hard object.  I  hear  this  is the same as a half stick of
dynamite!


FIREBOMBS
---------

    Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag
in the mouth.  The original  firebomb  was  one  part gasoline and one part
motor oil.  The oil makes it splatter and  stick  on  what  your  trying to
burn.  Some use one part roofing  tar  or  one  part melting wax to 2 parts
gasoline.


PIPE BOMB
---------

A pipe bomb is very easy to make.  But is also very dangerous!

   To construct a pipe bomb you  will  need  a piece of pipe about one foot
long.  Some fine gun  powder,  a solar ignitor, and a battery.  Cap one end
of the pipe very good with a cap.  Pour some  gun  powder  in the other end
about little over the middle.  Cap  the  pipe  on  the other end and make a
small hole in the middle of the pipe.  Now wrap the whole  pipe in electric
tape and make the hole again. Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the
hole.  Tape the ignitor down so it will not fall out.

   To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect it to
the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away.  Then connect
the  battery at the other end of the wire.  DO NOT touch the battery to the
electrodes of the bomb for even a  second, because it WILL explode!!!

   Remember  take  a  long  two  conductor  wire  and  connect  it  to  the
electrodes and run it  far away and then connect the battery to it.  If you
made it correctly it will explode upon contact with the battery!  Remember,
this can kill you.  This also can do a lot of property damage.


                                                                    Page 23

CONTACT GRENADE
---------------

Materials:  2-3 in. section of pipe
                PVC (for test and fun)
                Steel (for shrapnel)

            12 guage shotgun shell
                (fitted to pipe)

            marble
            ping pong ball
            cap for pipe

            2-3 ft. ribbon
                (flights)

            explosive charge
                (of personal preferance)
                a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent charge when
                vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest
                or any STABLE flammable explosive one may have.


    This design  is  a  modified  pipebomb  which will be set off upon hard
contact.  This  makes things much easier than tossing molotove cocktails or
lighting fuses as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on contact.

 1)  Cut the plastic of the shotgun  shell off of the primer and set aside.

 2)  Carefully fit the  primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely.

 3)  Glue the marble to the 'dimple' of the primer.

 4)  Cut the ping  pong  ball in half and then glue half onto the marble to
     make a simple form of casing.

 5)  Put explosive charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only
     1/4 of the  volume  of  pipe.  Reason: 1 gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks
     dynamite!!!).

 6)  Cap the pipe and epoxy into place.

 7)  Tie ribbon around tail section of pipe.

    Relax.  Now that its finished  heres  how  it  works.  When  thrown the
grenade will come down upon the point because of the tail flights.  When it
hits, the primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off.  The primer
then ignites the explosive charge.  I  heartily  recommend that PVC be used
for testing as the steel pipe is  rather  dangerous.  This  design is not a
toy and should not be built to be played  with.  If  you  want  a  toy just
empty a shotgun shell and tape a marble to the primer  and throw.  It makes
a quasi-safe firework.





                                                                    Page 24

CARBIDE BOMB
------------

    Obtain some calcium carbide.  This is the stuff that is used in carbide
lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store.  Take a few pieces and
put it in a  glass jar with some water.  Put a lid on tightly.  The carbide
will react with the water  to  produce acetylene carbonate which is similar
to the gas used in curring torches.  Eventually the glass will explode from
internal pressure.  If you leave  a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball.


HINDENBERG BOMB
---------------

    Get, a balloon, bottle, Liquid Plummer,  foil,  and  a  length of fuse.
Fill the  bottle 3/4 full with the Liquid plummer and add a little piece of
alumninum  foil.  Put the balloon over the next of  the  bottle  until  the
balloon is full of the resulting gas.  This  is  highly flammable hydrogen.
Now tie the  balloon.  Tape the fuse to the outside of the inflated balloon
and light.  Let  the  balloon rise into the air.  When the fuse gets to the
balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen will cause a fireball.
 
 
 
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