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  ***                             EXPLOSIVES                              ***
  ***                          COMPLETE TUTORIAL                          ***
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  ***                       Compiled by Red Dragon                        ***
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                          CHEMICAL SUBSTITUTION CHART

peroxide
lead acetate                       sugar of lead
lead tetroxide                     red lead
magnesium silicate                 talc
magnesium sulfate                  Epsom salts
naphthalene                        mothballs
phenol                             carbolic acid
potassium bitartrate               cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulfate         chrome alum
potassium nitrate                  saltpeter
silicon dioxide                    sand
sodium bicarbonate                 baking soda
sodium borate                      borax
sodium carbonate                   washing soda
sodium chloride                    salt
sodium hydroxide                   lye
sodium silicate                    water glass
sodium sulfate                     Glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate                 photographer's hypo








                                BOTTLE GRENADE

       This one's really simple, but a lot of people forget about these kinds
of simple weapons.  Anyway, get yerself a glass bottle, some vinegar and
baking soda, (Any substances that react in an expulsion of gas will work)
and a good strong SCREW-ON cap.  When you want to fire it, you put the
vinegar and baking soda in the bottle, (The amounts depend on the size of
the bottle...) and toss it.  It works, but it's mainly an antipersonnel
weapon, and if the bottle breaks you're screwed...



                              TENNIS BALL CANNON

       Get 4 or 5 seven-up cans, cut the tops off of 3 or 4 respectively, and
put holes (SMALL ONES, please...) in the top of the last can, drill a hole
the diameter of an Ohio Blue Tip match in the side of the can, about 1&122
inches from the bottom of the can.  Then stick a tennis ball in the top of
the cannon, squirt in some lighter fluid in the little hole, and hold a
flame under the hole.  If you've done it right, it'll work.  If you
haven't, you won't be able to try another one until your hands have healed
all of the severe burns you'll have.  (12 times the power of lighter fluid
is pretty hefty...)



                                    NAPALM

Pour gasoline in a bucket, pour in some soap flakes or a shredded soap
bar, and put this bucket inside a larger bucket.  Fill the larger button
with boiling water and wait.  If the soap flakes melt, you're lucky.  If
they don't, renew the water with more boiling water.  When all of the soap
melts, you get NAPALM, which incidentally sticks to kids rather well...



                                  SMOKE BOMBS

       I don't know if this one works, but it might.  Mix six parts Epsom
Salts and three parts sugar over a low flame.  When it turns into a gel,
pour it into a container and stick a few matches in as fuses.  Four pounds
is supposed to fill a city block.

       4 parts sugar to 6 parts potassium nitrate (SALT PETER). Heat over low
flame untill it melts.  Stir well.  Pour it into a container and stick in a
few matches as fuses.  One lb fills a block nicely with thick white smoke.

       HTH smoke bomb:  Using HTH pool chlorine (2 parts) and non-silicone
brake fluid (3 parts) makes one hell of a smoke bomb.  When you add these two
together, it gives off really thick smoke.





                                 SMOKE SCREENS

  Here is a somewhat explosive composition uses by the Germans in WWII for
black smoke:

Hexachloroethane - 60%
Anthracene       - 20%
Magnesium(powder)- 20%

   Brown Smoke:

Pitch            - 29.2%
Pottasium Nitrate- 47.4%
Borax            - 10.6%
Calcium Carbonate-  4.9%
Sand             -  4.0%
Sulpher          -  3.9%

Note: You may substite pitch by soaking liquid tar in sawdust. This has better
effect.

   Grey Smoke:

A:
Hexachloroethane - 50%
Zinc Powder      - 25%
Zinc Oxide       - 10%
Pottasium Nitrate- 10%
Colophony Resin  -  5%

B:
Hexachloroethane - 45.5%
Zinc Oxide       - 45.5%
Calcium Silicide -  9.0%

Note: Because of the high vapor presure of HC, HC smokes must(be sealed in
and artight container. Also the Zinc Powder one may react with water so
be carefull.

White Smoke:

Potassium Chlorate- 20%
Ammonium Chloride - 50%
Naphthalene       - 20%
Charcoal          - 10%

Pottasium Nitrate - 48.5%
Sulpher           - 48.5%
Realgar           -  3.0%

Pottasium Nitrate - 50%
Sugar             - 50%

Yellow Smoke:

Potassium Nitrate - 25%
Sulpher           - 16%
Realgar           - 59%

Other Black Smoke:

This one make the most beautifull black smoke but is expensive.

Potassium Perchlorate         - 44%
Antimony Trisulphide          - 24%
Naphthalene                   - 26%
Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch -  6%

Potassium Perchlorate         - 56%
Sulpher                       - 11%
Anthracene                    - 33%

Hexachloroethane              - 62%
Magnesium                     - 15%
Naphtalene (or Antracene)     - 23%

Red Smoke:

Potassium Chlorate            - 25%
Rhodamine B                   - 24%
Para Red  R                   - 15%

Blue Smoke:

Potassium Chlorate            - 28%
Methylene Blue                - 17%
Indigo Pure                   - 40%
Wheat Flour                   - 15%

Green Smoke:

Potassium Chlorate            - 28%
Auramine                      - 10%
Methylene Blue                - 17%
Indigo Pure                   - 30%
Wheat Flour                   - 15%





                          SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES

Petroleum jelly and potassium chlorate in a 1 to 1 ratio by weight makes a
totally safe when wet compound but is highly explosive and shock sensitive
when dry.


     3 grams of potassium iodide and 5 grams of iodide in a beaker with 50 ml
of water mixed all together.  Add 20ml of ammonium hydroxide (Ammonia water
10%) Filter.  When wet it is very safe, but upon drying, becomes VERY
explosive and shock sensitive.  A feather will set it off.  Called Nitrogen
Triodide.


     Take any amount of iodine crystals and put them in to a generous amount
of --consentrated-- ammonia and mix it well. Then let it sit for about 1/2
hour and then mix it again. Then take a coffee filter or a real chem
filter and filter the solution through it and collect the residue in the
filter and rinse it with ether or pure alcohol.(Ether is better) do this 4 or
5 times. The residue left will be --highly-- unstable and explosive when
it dries so keep it in a paint form with the ether and paint it where you
want. Since ether dries fast, the substance is very good for terror. I've
already had some blow up in my face and it wasn't very plesurable so be
careful with it.













                                 BLACK POWDER

    How to make black powder: you will need potassium or sodium nitrate,
sulfur, and hardwood charcoal.  The common name for potassium nitrate is
saltpeter. Sodium nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate
of soda. It is also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate makes a slightly
more powerful black powder but has the disadvantage of being hygroscopic
(obsorbes moisture from the air), so if you use it, store it in tightly closed
containers. You can lso get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder used
for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under
the name flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of soda, it will be in the form
of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 200 degrees for 10-15
minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and
switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder.  Buy a bag
of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag
 and pound with a hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain
through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate, 2
parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur.  This mixture will burn if ignited and
will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved,
however, by processing it as follows: moisten with water until it will stick
together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable
aluminum pie pan.  Bake in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30
minutes.  Get it totally dry.  Grind into as fine a powder as possible.  A
mortar and pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is a
danger of explosion. It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is
very sensitive to sparks. If you followed these directions, you should have a
fine slate-grey powder.

When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven.  Place your pie pan
approximately in the center of the oven.  Do not set it on the bottom of the
oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder
causing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law
was doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in
military demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that
things can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at
all times. Use common sense.  Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of the
oven, etc.


                               BLACK MATCH FUSE

   How to make blackmatch fuse: take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass
or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole
through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as
you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to
later.  To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add
1/2 teaspoon of corn starch.  Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end.  Separate
the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture.  Lower the
threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture.  Press
them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil
into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die.
Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a
piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 200 degree oven or tie it to a
grill in the oven and let it hang down.  The fuse must be baked to make it
stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the
job. If you used sodium nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room
temperature. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an
air tight container. Handle this fuse carefully to avoid breaking it.  You can
also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually
be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will
be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.



                                 SULFURED WICK

    How to make sulfured wick: use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in
diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be
sure it's cotton.  You can test it by lighting one end. It should continue to
burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal
on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt
it in the oven at 250 degrees.  It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid.
 If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of
string into it.  The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When the string is
saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to
desired lengths with sissors.  2 Inches is about right.  These wicks will burn
slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They
will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your
other fuse.  They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which
can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning rates. Now you
have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In the next
installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do just
that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice been
accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of your
little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing ground
with care.




                                   PIPE BOMB

    How to make a pipe bomb: buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches
long, threaded on both ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard
items in hardware stores.  Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This
is easy with a good drill bit. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end.  Fill the
pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder.
Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder
loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose
in a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or
threads of the pipe.  Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place
a small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site.  Remove the tape
and insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the
hole.  Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree.  Using thread or string,
lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid
letting the wick touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the
wick and head for cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you
and the bomb at all times.  Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may
not expect such a large explosion from such a small object. Be extra cautious
until you have done this a time or two and it gets real what you are dealing
with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly through the air like
bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you.  This is not a big
firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of the bomb can be
increased by using a larger pipe and caps.  To make a big noise without
blowing up your pipe, cap one end only.  Drill a 1/16 hole at the top of  the
threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of powder.
Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder.  Toilet paper or facial
tissue is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it into
the hole.  Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted.
When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous.  You will loose your pipe
unless you brace it securely against something. The pipe can be reloaded and
used again.  A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can
over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air.
Campbell's soup cans are great for this.

Believe it or not, cardboard rolling tubes used for rolls of industrial paper
toweling (3/4" diameter) is excellent material for creating fairly "safe"
pipe bombs.  Stuff tubing abou 1/3 full of flash powder and jam two stones
into each end.  Use a plunger (or a small suction dart from a toy gun) to
pack in as tightly as possible (make sure fuse protrudes from one end) and
light. These are good if you want to scare the living shit out of someone.
Also, if you want to make the device more destructive, you can cra{ broken
glass and nails into the tubing with the powder... this gives a nice kick.






                                  ROCKET FUEL

    How to make rocket fuel: this is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix
equal parts by volume potassium or sodium nitrate and granulated sugar.  Pour
a big spoonful of this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it;
light; and step back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination
will suggest a lot of experiments for this.

Another rocket fuel: mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch
 out if you experiment with this.  It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a
powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its
fast burning rate.





                                    MATCHES

    How to make an explosive from common matches: the word "safety" in safety
matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads of safety matches is a
powerful explosive.  It is similar to black powder but has a lower ignition
temperature (more sensitive to heat) and unlike black powder is easily
detonated by impact. This feature moves it up into the high explosives class.
To test this, lay a paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head
sharply with a hammer.  What do you know! it goes bang! to collect a quantity
of this explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several
cartons.  They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the
strike anywhere kind. Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire
cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the
loose material. It gets easy with practice.  You can do this while watching tv
and collect enough for a bomb without dying of boredom. Once you have a good
batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful
not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the
pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was
killed that way.

   Just for fun while i'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you can
strike a safety match on a window pane?  Hold a paper match between your thumb
and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly against a
large window.  Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while
maintaining the pressure.  The friction will generate enough heat to light the
match.  Another fun trick is the match rocket.  Tightly wrap the top half of a
paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.
Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites.  If you got it right,
the match will zip up and hit the ceiling.

   I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are
made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws off.
Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff wire with
a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of wooden
safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole. It
should fit very tightly.  Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets
hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang. --- For later
projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some concentrated
sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it.




                                 SULFURIC ACID

   How to make concentrated sulfuric acid from battery acid: go to an auto
supply store and ask for "a small battery acid".  This should only cost a few
dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon of dilute
sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container. The
glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect.  Do not use a metal
container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid
until white fumes appear.  As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the
hot plate and let the acid cool.  Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass
container.  The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no
metal. It must be air tight.Otherwise, the acid will quickly absorb moisture
from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that
doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries?  hold on to your acid and follow
me into the next installment.





                           CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE

   How to make a chemical time delay fuse: to get an understanding of how this
is going to work, mix up equal parts by volume potassium chlorate and
granulated sugar.  Pour a spoonful of the mixture in a small pile and make a
depression in the top with the end of a spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place
one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid in the depression and step back. It
will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames. To make
the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece
of cotton in one end.  On top of this put about an inch of the chlorate/sugar
mixture.  Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or
asbestos fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of
sulfuric acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and
ignite the mixture.  The time delay can be controlled by the amount of fiber
used and by varying how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this.  The
acid will react with cotton and become weakened in the process.  By punching a
hole in the side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be
inserted and used to set off the device of your choice.  Potassium chlorate
was very popular with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide
variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to
handle. The radicals lost several people that way. But, don't worry. I am not
going to try to protect you from yourself. I have decided to tell all. I will
have more to say about potassium chlorate, but for now, let's look at a couple
of interesting electric fuses.








                                 ELECTRIC FUSE

   How to make an electric fuse: take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip
down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end.
Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at
the end.  Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head.  One or two
flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to
ignite.

Another electric fuse: take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out
 of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it
around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the
strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires.
Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use.  Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of
cardboard of the type used in match covers.  Place a small pile of powdered
match head in the center and press it flat. Place the wires so the steel
strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to
cover the strand.  The strand should be surrounded with powder and not
touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of
blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on
 top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends.  Press it down so it
sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the
blackmatch on the other.  A single flashlight battery will set this off.

Electric fuse # 3: an excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at
 hobby and toy stores. They are sold for setting off model rockets.





                            SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION

   More spontaneous combustion: some of the ingredients for these can only be
had from a chemical supply so they are not my favorites. Look for powdered
aluminum at a good painting supply.

Method # 1: scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride.  Drop on a little
ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately.

Method # 2: mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium
nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a
depression on top.  Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well
back from this.

Method # 3: put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup.
Drop two drops of glycerin onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into
flames.

Method # 4: spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum.  Place a small amount
 of sodium peroxide on top of this.  A volume the size of a small pea is about
right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.

Method # 5: mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts
 concentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the
mixture.  When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame.




                              NITROGEN TRIIODIDE

    How to make nitrogen triiodide: here are some notes I took four years ago
on how to make this wild explosive that can be detonated by a fly walking on
it. Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml.  Concentrated
ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel. Stir the potassium iodide and iodine
together in a beaker with 50 ml. Of water.  Add the ammonium hydroxide with
stirring until no more precipitate forms.  Filter and spread a thin layer of
the wet solid on several filter papers.  Break the filter papers into many
small pieces and allow to dry for several hours.  On drying, the paper is
extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently with the slightest
disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet.  Do not let any sizeable
quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy concentrated
ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply.





                                 UREA NITRATE

    How to make urea nitrate: would you be offended if I asked you to go pee
in a pot? actually, this is the first step to making a powerful explosive
called urea nitrate.  Boil 10 cups of urine in a heat resistant glass
container until the volume is reduced to 1 cup. Filter the urine into a second
glass container through a coffee filter. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to
the filtered urine and let the mixture stand for 1 hour.  Filter again as
before. This time the urea nitrate crystals will collect on the filter. Wash
the crystals by pouring water over them. Remove the crystals from the filter
and allow to dry for 16 hours. This explosive has the disadvantage of
requiring a blasting cap to detonate it, but I couldn't resist telling you
about it.





                                   THERMITE

      Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two
parts by volume powdered aluminum with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is
hard to lite, but once you get it going, it generates so much heat it can burn
its way through a steel plate.
     There are several ways to get it going. One way is to use a strip of
magnesium ribbon as a fuse. If made from finely powdered ingredients thermite
can generate a fast enough burning rate to be used as an explosive when
confined.  For melting metel, it is best to use a coarse mixture about the
consistancy of ground coffee.
     Powdered aluminum can be bought at some paint stores or from a chemical
supply. You can make your own iron oxide by burning steel wool in a stove pipe
or similar container. Get it started with a propane torch and then blow a
stream of air over it with a vacuum cleaner hooked up in reverse.






                              CO2 CARTRIGE BOMBS

     You will have to use up the new cartridge by either shooting it in a c02
b-b gun or use it in a c02 car or what ever else you might figure out to do
with it.  With a nail, force the hole bigger so as to allow the powder and
wick to fit in easily.  Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in
there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface.
Insert a fuse (i recommend good water proof cannon fuse, but i've used fire-
cracker fuses.)  Light it and run!!!  it does wonders for a row of mail boxes.
Be careful however, this little beauty throws shrapnel and can be quite a
hazard.






                                 LETTER BOMBS

     You will first have to make a mild version of thermite, however you will
use just plain iron filings instead of rust.  Mix the iron filing with the
aluminium filings in a ratio of 75% aluminum with 25% iron.  This mixture will
burn violently in an enclosed space (such as an envelope,) which brings us to
the next ingredient.  Go to the post office or business supply store and but
an insulated (padded) envelope.  The type that is double layered.  Seperate
the layers and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go.  Then place magnesium powder in the outter layer. Theres your
bomb...Now to light it!
     This is the tricky part and is hard to explain in writing, experiement
with this idea until you have got it right.  Ok, the fuse is just that touch
explosive placed where the letter would be torn open. You may want to wrap it
lika a long cigerette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outter layer (on top of the powdered magnesium.)  When the touch explosive is
torn or even squeezed hard it will ignight the powdered magnesium (sort of a
flash light) and then it will burn the mild themite.  I've never sent one of
these so i dont really know if it works good. I do know that the thermite
burns real hot and if it didnt blow up it would give some one a bad burn
(thermite does wonders on human flesh!!)






                                  PAINT BOMBS

     To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal can with a fastenable lid,
a nice bright color paint, and a quantity of dry ice.  Place the paint in the
can and then drop the dry ice in.  Quickly place the lid on tightly and then
run.  With some testing you can get it down so you have a timer that works on
how much ice you have compared with how much paint you have.  If you're really
pissed at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, nock on the door, and
then run!!!





                                      RDX

[RDX...cyclotrimethylenetrinitra-mine.  Also known as cyclonite.  Secondary
high explosive.  Heat of reaction 5.694 kilojoules per gram.  Gas volume
creation 908 cubic cm per gram.  140% as prisant as TNT.  Effect of prolonged
storage is negligible.]

Materials:

Hexamethylenetetramine (also known as hexamine)
    ...available from drugstores as urotropine, hexamin, and methenamine.
    Used to cure urinary infections.

Strong Nitric Acid...chem supply stores.

Acetone...from drug and hardware stores.  Used as a paint solvent.

Graduated cylinder or measuring cups

Thermometer (20-100 degrees C or 68-212 degrees F)

Several quart canning jars

Two large basins or bowls made of metal.

Paper towels


Procedure:

1.   Place 1/2 cup (120 ml) of nitric acid in a large canning jar and bring
the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees C (68-86 F) by putting the jar in
a basin of cold water.  If necessary, swirl the canning jar around the basin
of cold water to bring the temperature down.

2.   Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the
hexamine and start adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon at a
time, during a 15 minute time period.  Maintain the temperature between 20-30
degrees C. while stirring gently with the thermometer.  Control the
temperature by dipping more and less of the can in the water.

3.   When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to
55 degrees C (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water.  Maintain
this temperature for 10 minutes.

4.   After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from
the basin of hot water and place it in the basin of cold water.  Cool the
canning jar to 20 degrees C.

5.   When the temperature is 20 C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of cold water to the
solution and a white salt will appear.


  ***The white precipitated salt is *RDX explosive, and it should be handled
     with care from this point on.

6.   Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the
mouth of anotherjar.

7.   Wash the RDX crystals off of the paper towel and into a canning jar,
using an additional 3 cups of fresh, cold water.  Add a teaspoon of sodium
carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir rapidly for 2 to 3 minutes, then
filter again.

8.   The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter.  It is
suitable for fairly immediate use, or it can be purified.

9.   To purify RDX, fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone.  Heat the acetone
by placing the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add RDX, a
tablespoon at a time, until it completely dissolves in the acetone.

10.  After the maximum amount of RDX has been dissolved in the hot acetone,
allow the solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one more
hour.

11.  The RDX will form a salt once again.  Filter out the RDX and spread it to
dry on a paper towel as before.


                              ******************
                              * RDX is not too *
                              * sensitive to   *
                              * heat and shock *
                              * but it is very *
                              * sensitive to   *
                              * friction. Thus *
                              * use great care *
                              * when packing.  *
                              ******************

Using the amount of chems given in this article, you should get about 1 1/2
ounces of RDX crystals of very good quality if you purified it.  Two or three
batches will be enough to make a three inch hole in sheet metal (say the side
of a car).  8-10 ounces will be enough to do enough blast overpressure to take
out the windows of a room.





                          PETROLEUM OIL/LIQUID CHARGE

[Petroleum Oil/Liquid charge.  Designed for defeating tanks of flamable
liquids or gases.]

Materials:

Soap dishes containing two seperate halves, the bottom flat half fitting into
the top bevelled half (standard soap dish)

Any homemade high explosive Thermite Incendiary Detonator Small alinco
horseshoe magnets, double sided tape, or both.

Procedure:

1.   Seperate the two halves of the soap dish.  Drill hole in top and insert
detonator.

2.   Fill 1/2 of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as thermite
or aluminum granules.  Thermite:  3 parts iron oxide powder and 2 parts
aluminum powder, by volume.

3.   Fill remaining half of bottom of soap dish with any powerful homemade
explosive.

4.   Fill 1/2 of top half with the explosive.

5.   Secure halves together with tape.  Stick on target with tape and/or
magnets.  Detonate.






                                CAST EXPLOSIVES

Potassium Chlorate 33 parts, Potassium Nitrate 33 parts, Sugar 24 parts,
Powdered Coal 10 parts. Mix in enogh water to dissolve the chemicals and make
a stiff putty. Form by hand to the disired shape and allow to dry.
NOTE:  Sodium Chlorate can be substituted for Potassium Chlorate in most
formulas.  Sodium Chlorate contains more oxygen than Potassium Chlorate.
Sodium Chlorate is moisture absorbent.
NOTE:  Sodium Nitrate can be substituted for Potassium Nitrate in most
formulas.






                              PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES

A plastic explosive used by Germany during WWII. Potassium Chlorate 96%, Fuel
oil 4%. Or Sodium Chlorate and fuel oil.

Mix 8 parts Potassium Chlorate to every 1 part Vassaline.  Heat over a small
flame (Like a match) for 2 minutes.  Use an Electronic Detonator to set off.





                                      ANS

Grind up 10 lbs. of Ammonium Nitrate in a blender.  Mix in 1 lb. Sulfur.  Mix
well.  Place 1/4 of the mixture in a 6x6x6 cardboard box.  Use the cardboard
tube from a toilet paper roll.  Cut the tube in half.  Tape one end shut.
Place fuse in one side of the Tube.  Fill tube with FLASH POWDER.  Tape the
other end of the tube shut.  This is the detonator for the ANS.  Place the
detonator in the center of the box and fill the box with ANS.  The above
mixture will make 25 lb. boxes of ANS.
      _________________
c    !*****************!                        * = ANS
a    !*****************!                        # = FLASH POWDER
r    !**** ____________!__                      _
d b  !****!############___!____[FUSE]___       !_!= BOX
b o  !****!############   !
o x  !**** ----------------                __[]__ = FUST
a    !*****************!
r    !*****************!
d    !_________________!












                                 NITROGLYCIRIN

*CAREFULLY* mix in equal amounts of nitric acid and sulfuric
acid together in a granulated cylinder or other tall, thin container.  Slowly
add ordinary glycerin and stir very lightly.  Wait a while, and pour off the
liquid on the top.  This liquid is nitroglycerin, and shood by handled with
caution.  Washing it with sodium carbonate will improve the purity.



                                      TNT

  Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid.  The acid being compused of:
2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid.  Mix below 30 degrees.
Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate.  Take the mononitrotoluene and mix
100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of:  1 part
pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid.  Keep the temperature at 60-
70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.  Raise temperature to 90-100 degrees
and stir for 30 minutes.  The dinitrotoulene is separated and mix with 100
parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with
20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid.  Heat at 95
degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes.  Seperate the
trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water.  Purify the powder by
soaking it in benzene.




                                   FIREBOMBS

  Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked
rag in the mouth.  The original Molotov Cocktail was one part gasoline and one
part motor oil.  The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to
burn.  Some use one part roofing tar or one part melted wax to 2 parts
gasoline.






                                   GUNPOWDER

     75% potassium nitrate
     15% charcoal
     10% sulfur

   The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a
mortar and pestle then combined and mixed thouroughly with each other.  If
gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed smace
it bulids up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container.
Gunpowder works like this:
          The potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then
burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.




                         CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES

     1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar
(sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium)
when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it what occurs is this:
When the acid is added, it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine
dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.

     2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very
well for imitating volcanic eruptions.  I have given it the name 'MPG
Volcanite' (TM).  Here it is:  Potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate +
ammonium nitrate +ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur +
iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (Scarlet= strontium
nitrate; Purple= Iodine crystals; Yellow= Sodium chloride; Crimson= Calcium
chloride, etc...)

     3. So, do you think water puts out fires?  In this one, it starts it.
 Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.  When a
 drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which
 reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat.  The heat vaporizes the
 iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
 when mixed with iodine vapor).  It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin
 burning.
     Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams
     Ammoniun chloride: 1 gram
     Zinc dust:        8 grams
     Iodine crystals:   1 gram

     4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple
colored flame in 30 secs-1 min.  Works best if the potassium permanganate is
finely ground.

     5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas, a highly flamable gas
used in blow torches.


