
                          Introduction and Notes
                                     
                           to The Anarchy Files



    Being depressed about the current uneventful situation in modem world,
and being an avid enthusiast of the old days, when piracy and phreaking
rulled the telephone lines, I decided to create this archive from old
manuscripts that I had collected from my tour of the modem world.  Inside
you will find various essays on telephone line modifing, explosives, and
various other terrorist activities.  A few of them are from the Poor Man's
James Bond, a popular book in line with the Anarchists Cook Book.

    Note that this is the second editing of most of the essays, the first
was made by Quasimoto.  From viewing the condition of the essays, I strongly
believe that the only editing he did was to copy all of them onto one disk.
All of the essays had massive spelling mistakes, and most were formatted for
fourty columns and uppercase.  I made the necessary changes to all the
files.  Note that there may be a few small gramatical, logical, or spelling
error; this is due to the fact that I didnt waste my time doing a detailed
proofing of every single one.  I did skim over all of them, and I believe
that most are just fine.

    Some of the files contain BBS numbers.  I have not verified their
current existance, but I highly doubt that any remain to this day.  It
might be valueable to check up on their existance, and if you have nothing
else to do, I would recommend it.  Also, some mention pirate groups, and I
would also be suprised if they remain alive and active.

    Throughout the edition process, I have tried to maintain their
appearence, so as not to disturbe the original overall look and feeling one
gets when reading them.  There have also been many purposly misspelled
words, and I have left them the way they were.  Some long chemical names,
my speller didn't recognize, and I did not bother to check up on the
spelling.  Also, I have tried some of the experiments, some have failed and
some worked beutifully.  I have not modified at all the content of the
essay, if I could not get it to work.  You'll notice that many of these
essays are very valuable, and some are obvious jokes; to any extent, have
fun, be careful, and don't get yourself arrested or KILLED!

 -- Perihelion  |\/|
                |/\|

11/88



                     Chemical igniters from the book:
                  The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon


    Chemical delay igniters have always been popular with the more
versatile militants.  The most common such igniter is the sulfuric
acid-potassium chlorate and sugar.

    The igniter is a mixture of half potassium chlorate and half granulated
sugar.  It bursts into flame with the application of a drop of sulfuric
acid.

    The idea is to put some of the mixture into a glass or plastic tube and
then stuff in some cotton, or paper.  Some acid is then put into the tube
with a medicine dropper, bought at a drug or hobby store.

    The acid is supposed to seep slowly through the barrier and finally
ignite the mixture.  The bad thing about this system is that it often
doesn't work or it works too fast.

    When sulfuric acid eats through vegetable matter there is a reaction of
great heat.  This is often enough to break the glass tubing and melt a
plastic drinking straw and can stop the action right there.

    If the glass tubing holds, the acid still loses its potency as it reacts
with the vegetable matter and that which reaches the mixture may be too
weak.

    The worst thing that can happen, however, is that it will work too
fast.  The acid can eat through the barrier in seconds instead of the
minutes you think you have.

    This could be disastrous if you loitered in the area for a minute to
avoid looking suspicious.  If you armed the device before going into the
target area, you might not even get there.

    To avoid such hangups you should use a non-reactive barrier such as
asbestos fibers, bought from any building supply store.  The acid will seep
through the asbestos fibers, making heat and without losing its potency.
and since it doesn't eat the asbestos, it can be timed with much more
certainty, which makes it safer and more sure.

    Powdered highway flare igniter can be substituted for the potassium
chlorate-sugar mixture.  It is over half potassium chlorate and is simpler.
In fact, if the plastic straw is pushed over a fuse coated with flare
igniter, the fuse needs no other igniter.

    Another chemical ignition device uses glycerin to react with potassium
permanganate.  Potassium permanganate is a relatively stable oxygenator and
can easily be bought at the drug store.  It is also used for staining
microscope specimens, disinfecting fish tanks.

    The potassium permanganate is ground to a powder and mixed with the same
amount of fuse powder and mixed with the same amount of fuse powder or the
highway flare igniter.  Cotton can be used as a barrier as it doesn't react
with glycerin.

    At least an inch of glycerin is put into the tube, especially if you use
a barrier.  When it reaches the mixture it takes from three to five minutes
for the ignition to take place.

    If the igniter is potassium chlorate and sugar or flare igniter or
potassium permanganate, it needs a barrier to keep it in place.  To make
sure the fire train burns past the barrier to the fuse, the barrier should
be flammable.  To make material for this barrier, mix cotton with wet fuse
powder or flare igniter.  Then dry it and pull off pinches as needed.

    To arm these devices a medicine dropper filled with acid or glycerin
can be carried up-ended in a test tube in the shirt pocket.  A plastic
felt-tip marker with a clip to hold it upright in the pocket can be used
instead of the test tube.  It is simply hollowed out and the dropper fits in
nicely.

    To avoid burned fingers, a string is tied to the dropper so it can be
pulled out of the container.

    To avoid the medicine dropper entirely, you can make up some preprimed
plastic mold compound. suck up a half inch of the compound into a 4 1/2 inch
plastic straw.  Then let it dry for a couple of days.  Shortly before use,
put in the acid or glycerin.





                  =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-=
                    Contact Explosives and Smoke Bombs
                            by the Apple Maniac
                  =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-= =-=



                  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

    Petroleum jelly and potassium chlorate in a 1 to 1 ratio by weight makes
a totally safe when wet compound but is highly explosive and shock
sensitive when dry.

                  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

    3 grams of potassium iodide and 5 grams of iodine in a beaker with 50ml
of water mixed all together.  Add 20ml of ammonium hydroxide (ammonia water
10%) filter and the resulting solid is called nitrogen tri-iodide.  When wet
is very safe but upon drying becomes very explosive and shock sensitive, to
the point of a feather setting it off.

                  /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

    To set off the above explosives all you really need to do is put some of
the mixture on or in something and then drop it sort of like an impact bomb.
It explodes on impact with another objects.


                  [-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-][-]

    Here is a mixture for great smoke bombs.  4 parts of sugar to 6 parts
potassium nitrate (salt peter).  Heat over low flame until it melts, stir
well.  Pour it into future container.  Before it solidifies, imbed a few
matches as fuses into the mixture.  One lb. fills a block nicely with thick
white smoke.



              Presented by the Digital Dimension 714/891-3334

                              EXPLOSIVE PENS

     Here are the instructions for building a device no agent should be
without.  From the mind of "Q" himself, a device for your evaluation.

Materials......

           [1]-(1) "Felt" Tip Pen
           [2]-(1) "Ball" Point Pen
           [3]-(1)  High quality firecracker!
           [4]-(1)  8 gram measure potassium parmagranite (optional)
           [5]-(x)  Scotch Tape
           [6]-(1)  Large Paper Clip
           [7]-(2)  Packages of matches
           [8]-(1)  Pair of scissors
           [9]-(1)  Length of Beige thread

Assembly......

[1]- Use thread to friction saw the felt tip pen in half at the point
     where the cap "snaps" onto the pen. (about mid-section)
[2]- Remove the innards of the felt tip pen, and throw them away.
[3]- Pull the innards out of a bic ball point pen and remove the ball
     point assembly at the front of the pen.
[4]- Use scissors to widen the hole in the "felt" end of the pen.  Insert
     the ball assembly and make sure it is a tight fit.  It should now
     look as if the felt tip pen was constructed as a ball point pen.
[5]- Cut off abrasive strips from the packs of matches.  It is best if they
     have not been used. Tape these to the top of the firecracker near
     the fuse, the strips should run parallel to the outstretched fuse.
     Wrap fuse over the top of one strip and tape down so fuse runs parallel
     to abrasive strips.
[6]- Unbend paperclip and tape a match to the metal rod, the match should
     be parallel to the rod and it should be taped tight using as little
     tape as possible.
[7]- Insert the match head 1/5 of the way between the abrasive strips
     and wrap tape around the assembly.  It should now look like this.

                         ------______-----
            [][][]a[][][]-----------------(b)
                                 (())---------------------
                         ______------_____               |(c)
                                          |(d)
     (a)-Explosive/(b)-Fuse/(c)-Match attached to metal rod/(d)-Abrasives
     The entire assembly should be thin enough to slip into the case of
     the felt tip pen.
[8]- Using scissors drill a small hole in the "non-tip" end of the felt
     tip pen case.  Insert the assembly so the metal rod fits through the
     hole in the end of the pen case.
[9]- The assembly will not quite fit properly.  The firecracker will
     protrude from the cut half of the felt tip case.  Slip the removed
     end of the case over the firecracker. (join the halves together over
     the firecracker in the center) and mount the cap of the felt tip pen
     on the end of the metal rod.  Glue any loose parts.  You are done!

To Detonate...

     Simply hit the cap (mounted at end of pen permanently) and throw
it at your target, or hand it to your target.  My favorite is to say
"Think Fast" and throw them your felt tip pen. (make it a easy throw)
Your victim will catch it, and it will then explode.  Cutting off many
small appendages if you coat the firecracker with potassium parmagranite.
Or killing your target if you use contact poison in place of the potassium.

Theory of operation...

     Quite simple, by hitting the cap you are ramming the match head at
the end of the metal rod between the tight abrasive strips causing
combustion. Or the "Orgasm" effect. (the term Axis Agents use!) The
fire lights the fuse and from there, the pen is history! (pardon the pun)
After hitting the cap you have a average time limit of 2.5 seconds to
rid yourself of the pen. (plenty of time actually...)



                  --------------------------------------
                  -          E X P L O S I V E S       -
                  -                                    -
                  - <#Dark Forest#>]{<#312/232 8804#>] -
                  -                                    -
                  -       Magical Formula's Part I     -
                  -       (*>Clovis  Greenslade<*)     -
                  --------------------------------------


SEC I
-----

                                N A P A L M
                                * * * * * *


    Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap.  The soap is
either soap flakes or shredded bar soap.  Detergents will not work.  The
gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt.  The usual way is
with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two quart capacity.
The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is
taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame.  Then one part,
by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as
it will and the soap is added and then the mess is stirred until it
thickens.  A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as
hot as you can get it.  It will hold it's heat much longer and permit a much
larger container than the double boiler.


SEC II
------

                                 S M O K E
                                  B O M B
                                 * * * * *


    Mix 4 parts sugar and 6 parts potassium nitrate (salt peter) and heat it
over a low flame until it melts.  Stir well, then pour it into a container
you don't need.  Before it solidifies, put a few matches on the surface as
fuses.  One pound of this substance will fill a block nicely with white
smoke.  I have not yet devised a method to get colored smoke, but I will
soon...


SEC III
-------

                          GENERIC (BUT POWERFUL)
                                  B O M B
                          * * * * * * * * * * * 


 1> Get a hold of a glass jug.
 2> Put in a few drops of gasoline.
 3> Cap the top.
 4> Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates.
 5> Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (you can get this real easy
    from a snake-bite kit).
 6> The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling against a solid
    object.

After throwing run like hell.  It packs the same charge as 1/2 stick of
dynamite.


                       How to Make a Flashlight Bomb


    A flashlight bomb is fairly easy it make and can be concealed so well,
that it is virtually impossible to detect it.  Here's what to do:

    Get yourself one flashlight of any size, shape, or creed, and the
battery/batteries that go along with it.  Now it is time for an important
decision.  Depending upon the type of bomb you require, you have to make
a choice in materials.  Here are your choices:

    [1]  mercuric chloride   -  gas bomb
    [2]  pure sodium + water -  flame bomb
    [3]  sulfuric nitrate    -  acid bomb
    [4]  gunpowder (tnt)     -  boooooooom!

    Now, taking the material for the type of bomb you would like to make,
proceed to put rocks, bb's, glass pellets, etc... In the bottom of a
hollowed out battery/batteries, unless you are making a flame bomb, which
in that case read on.  Then line a magnesium strip along the side of the
flashlight appearing on top of the flashlight so you may light it.  Next,
make sure you have plenty of the explosive you chose in the battery. [ Not
you may lightly pack it in, but do not hit it!!! My friend was packing
a home-made bomb one day, and hammered the cover on, and blew a hole right 
through his liquor cabinet ] next, secure the top, leaving room to insert
the magnesium strip.  It should look like this:

                -----------
                \         /
                 \       /
                  \_____/
                  ! bmb !
                  ! bmb !
                  ! bmb !
                  ! bbb !
                  !     !
                  !_____!

    In the last diagram, (b) stands for battery and (m) for magnesium.
Also inside the battery should be the ammo and the explosive.

    Now for the flame bomb...The sodium, should be on the top, and the
water in a babyfood jar.  The sodium used here is not table salt!!!  You
won't need the mag.  Strip because number 1, because all you need do is hit
the flashlight against something hard.  Do not hold it---throw it as far as
you can!!!

                  <><><>How to Build a Flamethrower<><><>



Items you will need:

1 squirt bottle like the windex bottle
2 coat hanger
3 cardboard
4 flammable liquid

Building it:

    Take the top off the squirt bottle.  Fill it with the flammable liquid.
(we used charcoal lighter).  I wouldn't fill it all the way to the top in
case there is an accident.  (ka-boom!) Cut about a foot and a half of coat
hanger and bend one end around the neck of the bottle tightly.  Bend about
an inch of the other end vertically.  The wire should be horizontal for
about a foot+ a little.  Roll up a little piece of cardboard and rap it with
lots of tape of some kind.  Here is how it should look:

bottle='
wire=- and !

             !                 '''''''
             !               '         '
             --------------------    '
                               '    '
                              '     '
                             '      '
                             '      '
                             '      '
                             ''''''''

    Stick the tape-wrapped cardboard over the vertical part of the wire.

Shooting flames:

    Squirt some flammable liquid with the squirter onto the tape-wrapped
cardboard (witch should be on the end of the wire) light the flammable
liquid and tape wrapped cardboard.  (opps, don't light the liquid!!! light
the cardboard that is soaked with liquid!!) when it starts burning good,
shoot some of the liquid into the flames with the squirter.  For longest
shot, shoot into the flames but do not hit the cardboard.

Have fun

by: the Glove

 
                   ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
                   ][           HOW TO MAKE TNT          ][
                   ][          BROUGHT TO YOU BY         ][
                   ][      COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH      ][
                   ][           (801)-264-8201           ][
                   ][      FORMATTED FOR 80 COLUMNS      ][
                   ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
                                       
                               How to make TNT
                                       
                               By  THE SCREAMER
                            *s*c**re*a***m**e**r*


    Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT
(trinitrotoluene).  This and other very similar types of high explosives are
all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25
millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability.  TNT also has
the great advantage of being able to be melted at 82 degrees Celsius, so
that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles.
Military TNT comes in containers which resemble drycell batteries, and are
usually ignited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting
cap, although there are other methods.

                            Preparation of TNT

1. Take two beakers.  In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric
acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water.  In the other beaker,
prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric
acid (percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume).

2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and
placed in an ice bath.

3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.

4. Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50
degrees C.  The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.

5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and
the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will
begin to form on the top of the acid.

6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath,
and cooled to 45 degrees C. when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid
will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker.  After this point,
the remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe.

7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid
while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C.  After this
temperature is reached, it is maintained for a full half hour.

8. At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees
C, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour.  After this,
the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the
bottom.

9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently
heated to 80 degrees C.  All temperature increases must be accomplished
slowly and gently.

10. Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid
solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 degrees C. to 104
degrees C., and is held for three hours.

11. After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C.
and held there for a half hour.

12. After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with
boiling water.

13. After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred constantly,
the TNT will begin to solidify.

14. When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker,
so that the TNT will form into pellets.  Once this is done, you'll have a
good quality of TNT.

    NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and
must be used as such.  DO NOT estimate or use approximations.  Buy a good
centigrade thermometer.

    The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property
for this formula.  It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.

***s*****c**r*e*a*****m**e***r*


                  -----------[=Explosive Phun=]----------
                                    by
                  -------------[=Chris Jones=]-----------

                  ---------------------------------------


    These projects are for those of you who would like to get even at
somebody, but you don't really want to hurt them.  Just scare the hell out
of them.

                  ----------[=IODINE CRYSTALS=]----------

    These little beauties are pressure sensitive so that the slightest touch
will cause a fairly loud explosion.  (About a fourth of a fire cracker per
crystal) It may not seem like much, but there are usually about 500 crystals
in a teaspoon of crystallized iodine.  Also, when the first one goes off, it
will most likely start a chain reaction and cause all of the others around
it to go off too, which would cause all of the others around each one of
those to go off etc.

Materials:

1.  1 bottle of iodine crystals.
2.  1 bottle of ammonia nitrate

Instructions:

    Mix 2 teaspoons of crystals with about 4 ounces of ammonia.  You might
have to experiment with the measurements a little bit to see what works
best.

    Stir until dissolved, then pour it over the area that you want to trap.

    Let the ammonia evaporate so all that will be left are the tiny
crystals.  (they are almost invisible) Then, when somebody steps on or sets
something down on it...

                  ******HE'LL SHIT IN HIS PANTS!!!*******


                  -------------[=HAVE PHUN=]-------------


Which G-file (Q=Quit) ? 19



                          How to Make a Landmine
                                    by
                          Merlin and Black Knight

    First you need to get a push button switch, or a door bell ...  Take the
wires of it and connect one to a 9 volt battery connector and the other to a
solar igniter (if you can't get that then use a thin piece of stereo wire).

    Connect the other wire of the 9 volt connector to to the other end of
the solar igniter (stereo wire).

    Now... connect the end of a fuse (of a pipe bomb, M80, whatever has a
fuse) to the solar igniter...

    Dig a hole... not to deep but enough to cover all the materials.  Think
about what direction your enemy will coming from and plant the switch, but
leave the button visible (not to visible).  Plant the explosive about 3 feet
from the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion. And when
your enemy steps on it...

                            B  O  O  M  !  !  !
                            -------------------




</> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </>

<\>                    The Complete Pipe Bomb Guide                     <\>

</>                       Written by the Monitor                        </>

<\>                     Call Ground Zero  110 megs                      <\>

</>                           (213) 644/7057                            </>

<\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\> </> <\>




Disclaimer: I have written this document with the intent that the readers
            gain in technical knowledge only, rather than using it to make
            illegal bombs.  These bombs are HIGHLY dangerous, and should NOT
            be reproduced.  I take NO responsibility for misuse of this
            information that results in physical damage or death.
 
Important: The most important thing about pipe bombs is to be VERY careful.
           ANY size of pipe bomb can easily rip off hands and send shrapnel
           speeding to the depths of your body.

    My friends and I (including the Stadt, the End, and the Extortionist)
originally began our quest for the perfect bomb with our own discovery of
the pipe bomb.  The first ones we made were simply about 2-3 inch lengths of
copper tubing about 1/2 to 3/4ths wide.  These we filled with gunpowder
collected from opening shotgun shells and large firecrackers, and crimped
the ends to seal the powder inside.  We then inserted a firecracker fuse
and lit them.  Unfortunately they did minute amounts of damage and produced
great amounts of smoke and lots of noise, and were essentially large
firecrackers.

    Observing our misfortunes of wasting the precious gunpowder, we started
construction on a second generation of pipe bombs.  We took a hollow metal
rod, of about 2.5 inches long, 1/2 inches wide, and with approximately 1/16
to 1/8 inch walls.  These bombs were much smaller than our first ones,
because of the material, and because our supply of gun powder was greatly
diminished from our first attempts.  We again crimped the edges and lit the
bombs through a small hole in the top with a fuse.  The resulting explosion
produced an incredible sound that was deafening for MILES and a hole the
length of your small finger in the asphalt.  This was our last attempt for
some time, because the sound it produced hurt my dad's ears when he was
taking a shower. [Note]: When we recovered the shrapnel, the strong steel
pipe that took tons of force to even crimp the edges, was turned inside
out!

Important: DO NOT USE FIRECRACKER FUSES TO LIGHT THESE OFF for obvious
           reasons.  It was a miracle that none of us were injured in the
           explosion.

    Many months later, I was up in Tahoe, where my cousin lives, and one
day we decided to continue the research that my friends and I started so
long ago.  We first used normal CO2 bottles, like the kind used for BB
guns.  These we filled with black or smokeless powder through the small
hole in the top.  Magnesium strips were used to ignite the newly
constructed bombs.  When placed flat on a dry lake bed they took the dirt
and mud from beneath them and threw it 15 feet into the air.  The sound
created from the third generation pipe bombs were equally painful.

    Excited from our results, we went to the local hardware store and
purchased 1/2 to 3/4 foot long steel water pipes with steel screw on caps.
[Note]: The ones about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.  We filled these huge bombs with
smokeless powder taken from cartridge refill cans bought from local gun
shops.  We used model rocket solar igniters and 9 volt batteries to ignite
them, making sure we were a good distance away and behind a large obstacle.
(like a 10 ton rock) On the larger of the bombs, we used two igniters, one
near each end of the tube, to give maximum efficiency of power.  [Note]:
make sure the wires do not touch themselves OR the pipe bomb; also make sure
that the holes used to insert the detonaters are as small as made possible,
or the power might escape out the holes, and nothing happens.  One of these
we buried about 1 foot under the ground with lots of fist size rocks and
packed dirt. When detonated, the bomb threw them up to 50 feet into the air,
and created hail storms of fist size rocks instead of ice.  The explosions
took place in the hills and mountains surrounding the resort town or Alpine
Meadows.  The popular ski resort is about 3 miles up the canyon, and Squaw
Valley, the famous ski resort once used for a winter olympic was about 10
miles away.  The resulting sound blasted our ears, and could easily be heard
echoing off the faces of Alpine Meadow's ski slopes.  One can not easily
imagine the power behind the forces of pipe bombs, and why they are so
feared as terrorist weapons.

    Those last experiments were easily the largest we've ever made.  Now, my
friends and I devote ourselves to the pursuit of more sophisticated devices.
We've come up with several options.  The first and most fun is a simple PVC
plastic bombs.  They produce much more power than expected and lots of ear
deafening noise.  We used simple crushed rocket propulsion powder which
creates large billowing clouds of smoke in addition to the other properties.
[Note]: one of the most important things, is to make sure that the end caps
are of the screw on types and are very tight and secure; also, electric tape
wound tightly around all parts of the bomb highly strengthen the tube and
will usually give better results.

    Our sixth and final generation were again small steel pipes with tight
screw on ends.  The major difference with these and the others is the
detonation device used.  We got sick of wasting time and money on rocket
solar fuses and decided to make cheap, easy and efficient igniters.  We came
up with small iron wool filaments.  These work wonders when woven correctly
and when a powerful DC current is applied across them.  You must make long,
very thin filaments to work, however, if woven too tightly, they will not
burn effectively.  Practice several times, until you get perfect ones that
either spark or produce rapid glowing sparks across the length of the
filament.  We uses a AC to DC converter that produces 1.5 amps and 25 volts.
If you cant gain ahold of one of these (a train power supply works) 2-4 9
volt batteries in parallel and serial arrangement gives ample amperage and
voltage to produce a good effect.


    Diagram of a sample sixth generation bomb:


                      ___________________________
                     /  |                     |  \
           ---------------========================|
                     \__|_____________________|__/
                       ^           ^           ^
                       |           |           |
            tight steel cap    steel tube   tight steel cap

                 ---  Wire terminal, make sure it DOES NOT touch the pipe
                      in any way.  It must ONLY touch the filament.

                 ===  Iron wool filament.  One end is connected to the wire
                      terminal, the other is impeded between the threads of
                      the caps and tube.

    You must have 2 wires, one is the wire terminal, the other is wound
around or soldered to the tube.  You should drill a small hole in the center
of one of the caps to insert the terminal through.  We found it better to
epoxy the threads together and to clog up and hold the terminal firmly in
the hole.  Once again, make sure the wire only touches the filament, leave
the rubber insulator on the wire, except for the part that touches the
filament.  Fill the tube with gunpowder or similar explosives.

Important:  DO NOT be stupid and solder a wire to the tube WHILE the
            gunpowder is inside.  Also make sure the tube has cooled down
            before you fill it up, and KEEP ALL BATTERIES AWAY when you're
            assembling it, you don't want it to accidentally touch the
            filament and ignite the bomb!

    We've used this set up to test underwater depth charges in a pool and
for land mines.  Both are HIGHLY effective.  For land mines, use a door bell
for the pressure plate, and barry the bomb not more than a couple of inches
below the ground, and don't forget BB's or rocks, etc for shrapnel.


                     Special thanks to the Dark Wizard


                  +-------------------------------------+
                  ! King Arthur's Demolition Article #1 !
                  +-------------------------------------+


    Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care and
caution when you are doing this.  Even if you have made this stuff before.

    This first article will give you information on making nitroglycerin,
the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as straight dynamites, and
gelatin dynamites.

                  ---------------------------------------
                                     
                           Making Nitroglycerin
                                     
                  ---------------------------------------

     1. Fill a 75-millimeter beaker to the 13 ml. level with fuming red
nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.

     2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temp.

     3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming
sulfuric acid (99% h2so4).  In other words, add to the now-cool fuming
nitric acid 39 ml. of fuming sulfuric acid.  When mixing any acids, always
do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.

     4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. by adding more ice to the
bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade.  (Use a mercury-operated thermometer)

     5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it
is ready for the glycerin.  The glycerin must be added in small amounts
using a medicine dropper.  (Read this step about 10 times!)  glycerin is
added slowly and carefully (I mean careful!) until the entire surface of the
acid it covered with it.

     6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place as
soon as the glycerin is added.  The nitration will produce heat, so the
solution must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade!  If the solution should
go above 30 degrees,  immediately dump the solution into the ice bath!  This
will insure that it does not go off in your face!

     7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
gently stirred.  In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will form a layer
on top of the acid solution, while the sulfuric acid will absorb the excess
water.

     8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has
formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred
slowly and carefully to another beaker of water.  When this is done the
nitroglycerin will settle at the bottom so the other acids can be
drained away.

     9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the
nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in
a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case you didn't know) solution.
the sodium is an alkali and will neutralize much of the acid remaining.
This process should be repeated as much as necessary using blue litmus paper
to check for the presence of acid.  The remaining acid only makes the
nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.

     10. Finally!  The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the
bicarbonate.  This is done with and eyedropper, slowly and carefully.  The
usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of
the nitroglycerin on metal and ignite it.  If it is true nitroglycerin it
will burn with a clear blue flame.

                               ** caution **

    Nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating dropping, or jarring,
and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.


                 ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
                 ][      COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH      ][
                 ][           (801)-264-8201           ][
                 ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
                                     
                         Courtesy of the Safehouse
                                     
                  +-------------------------------------+
                  ! King Arthur's Demolition article #2 !
                  +-------------------------------------+

    I have decided to skip the article on mercury fulminate for a while and
get right into the dynamite article.
    Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilizing agent
to make it much safer to use.  For the sake of saving time, I will
abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain NG.  The numbers are percentages, be
sure to mix these carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts.  These
percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.


no.  ingredients                 amount
---------------------------------------
#1   NG                          32
     sodium nitrate              28
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate            29
     guncotten                    1

#2   NG                          24
     potassium nitrate            9
     sodium nitrate 56
     woodmeal                     9
     ammonium oxalate             2

#3   NG                          35.5
     potassium nitrate           44.5
     woodmeal                     6
     guncotton                    2.5
     vaseline                     5.5
     powdered charcoal            6

#4   NG                          25
     potassium nitrate           26
     woodmeal                    34
     barium nitrate               5
     starch                      10

#5   NG                          57
     potassium nitrate           19
     woodmeal                     9
     ammonium oxalate            12
     guncotton                    3

#6   NG                          18
     sodium nitrate              70
     woodmeal                     5.5
     potassium chloride           4.5
     chalk                        2

#7   NG                          26
     woodmeal                    40
     barium nitrate              32
     sodium carbonate             2

#8   NG                          44
     woodmeal                    12
     anhydrous sodium sulfate    44

#9   NG                          24
     potassium nitrate           32.5
     woodmeal                    33.5
     ammonium oxalate            10

#10  NG                          26
     potassium nitrate           33
     woodmeal                    41

#11  NG                          15
     sodium nitrate              62.9
     woodmeal                    21.2
     sodium carbonate              .9

#12  NG                          35
     sodium nitrate              27
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate             1

#13  NG                          32
     potassium nitrate           27
     woodmeal                    10
     ammonium oxalate            30
     guncotton                    1

#14  NG                          33
     woodmeal                    10.3
     ammonium oxalate            29
     guncotton                     .7
     potassium perchloride       27

#15  NG                          40
     sodium nitrate              45
     woodmeal                    15

#16  NG                          47
     starch                      50
     guncotton                    3

#17  NG                          30
     sodium nitrate              22.3
     woodmeal                    40.5
     potassium chloride           7.2

#18  NG                          50
     sodium nitrate              32.6
     woodmeal                    17
     ammonium oxalate              .4

#19  NG                          23
     potassium nitrate           27.5
     woodmeal                    37
     ammonium oxalate             8
     barium nitrate               4
     calcium carbonate             .5

    Household equivalents for chemicals

    It has come to my attention that many of these chemicals are sold under
brand names, or have household equivalents.  Here is a list that might
help you out.


    acetic acid                       vinegar
    aluminum oxide                    aluminum
    aluminum potassium sulfate        aluminum
    aluminum sulfate                  aluminum
    ammonium hydroxide                ammonia
    carbon carbonate                  chalk
    calcium hydrochloride             bleaching powder
    calcium oxide                     lime
    calcium sulfate                   plaster of paris
    carbonic acid                     seltzer
    carbon tetrachloride              cleaning fluid
    ethylene dichloride               Dutch fluid
    ferric oxide                      iron rust
    glucose                           corn syrup
    graphite                          pencil lead
    hydrochloric acid                 muriatic acid
    hydrogen peroxide                 peroxide
    lead acetate                      sugar of lead
    lead tetrooxide                   red lead
    magnesium silicate                talc
    magnesium sulfate                 Epsom salts
    naphthalene                       mothballs
    phenol                            carbolic acid
    potassium bicarbonate             cream of tarter
    potassium chromium sulf.          chrome alum
    potassium nitrate                 saltpeter
    sodium dioxide                    sand
    sodium bicarbonate                baking soda
    sodium borate                     borax
    sodium carbonate                  washing soda
    sodium chloride                   salt
    sodium hydroxide                  lye
    sodium silicate                   water glass
    sodium sulfate                    glauber's salt
    sodium thiosulfate                photographers hypo
    sulfuric acid                     battery acid
    sucrose                           cane sugar
    zinc chloride                     tinner's fluid

    Keep this list handy at all times.  If you can't seem to get one or more
of the ingredients try another one.  If you still can't, you can always buy
small amounts from your school, or maybe from various chemical companies.
When you do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the
school year, and they ask, say it's for a experiment for school.

    Again, I hate to bore ya, but be sure to follow instructions carefully.
If you fail to do so, your parents might have to pick up your ashes.



                  $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
                  $                                     $
                  $         SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB         $
                  $         ---- ----- --- ----         $
                  $                                     $
                  $      AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:      $
                  $                                     $
                  $      THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND      $
                  $           BY KURT SAXON             $
                  $                                     $
                  $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$



    This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds.  The bottom of
a soft drink can is half cut out and bent back.  A giant firecracker or
other explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks.  The
fuse is then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.

    After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or
glycerin is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall
where it will not be knocked over.  The delay should give you three to five
minutes.  It will then have a shattering effect on passerbys.

    It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone
else's soft drink can.  But if such a crude person should try to drink from
your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast!


               !!
               !!
               !! <-chemical igniter
           ---------
           !  !1!  !
           ! ===== !
           !*!   !"!
           ! !   ! !
           ! !   ! ! <- big firecracker
           ! !   !%!
           ! ====  !
           !       !
           !   #   !
           ! ---   !
           !  !    ! <- nuts & bolts
           !  /    !
           !       !
           ---------


                                 Stinkum:

               From the Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon

                           Typed by the Penguin



    Iron sulfide is sold for $.35 for only 1/8th of an ounce.  Easier to
make and just as potent and costing about $.50 a quart is ammonium sulfide.
It stinks to high heaven like rotten eggs and no one can stand to stay
around it once it has been spilled on the floor or vaporized by an
explosion.

    To make some, you mix 4 ounces of sulfur with 8 ounces of hydrated lime
in a stew pot.  A quart of water is added and the mess is heated and
stirred until the sulfur has completely blended. the hydrated lime will sink
to the bottom of the pan and the yellow liquid is then poured off into a
bucket.

    Take the bucket outside, if you have any sense, and add 1 pound of
sulfate of ammonia.  Stir it a minute and hold your nose.  Then cover the
bucket with plastic wrap and let it set for about a half hour.  Then pour
off the liquid slowly through a cloth filter into a bottle.  If you don't
have an outside you can use your bathroom, just hope no one has to go for an
hour or so. the liquid is vile but not poison.

    A 5 pound bag of sulfate of ammonia for $1.65 can be bought at any
garden store and garden sulfur is very high grade and makes excellent gun
powder.  It has 10% inert ingredients so 10% more should be added to any
formula requiring sulfur.  I bought the hydrated lime from a building supply
store for $.10 a pound.

    Stinkum is either poured on the floor, shot from a water pistol, thrown
in a bottle or light bulb or vaporized by a firecracker.  The same goes for
the formaldehyde or acrolein.  To vaporize the above nasties, a little bomb
is used.  The best bomb casing is a plastic coin holder with a screw cap.
these can be bought from any coin shop for $.10 each. the thin brass tubing
is bought at a hobby shop.  The wax is bought at a grocery in the canning
section.  To keep the firecracker from getting wet, dip it and part of the
tubing into melted wax.  Enough goody is poured into the coin holder to make
it full when the firecracker is put in and the lid is screwed on.  It is
filled as soon as possible before using.

    It is ignited with a chemical igniter, shown further on, or with a match
or cigarette.  The same system can be used in a glass bottle but that might
injure someone.

             ! <- fuse
            ---
            ! ! <- brass tube
            ! !
            ! !
            (^) <- airplane glue
          -------
          ! !1! !
          !  /  !
          !  /  !
          !-----! <- wax
          !  1  !
          !  1  !
          ! === !
          ! ! ! !
          ! ! ! ! <- firecracker
          ! ! ! !
          ! ! ! !
          ! === !
          !-----!


                  =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =-
                  =- =-       MAKING THERMITE      =- =-
                  =- =-         Edited for         =- =-
                  =- =-  Computer Pirates of Utah  =- =-
                  =- =-       (801)-264-8201       =- =-
                  =- =-             by             =- =-
                  =- =-      The Irate Pirate      =- =-
                  =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =- =-



    Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically
anything, save tungsten.  Now here's how you make it.  It is very simple.
The first step in making thermite is to make hematite.  In layman's terms,
hematite is iron oxide (rust).  Here is a good method of making large
quantities of rust.  You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common
nail.  You will need a source of DC power as well.  An electric train
transformer is perfect.  Attach the rod to the positive wire.  Then place
the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with
water.  Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well
(a teaspoon).  Let the setup sit overnight.  In the morning, there will be a
dark red crud in the jar.  Filter all the crud out of the water or just fish
it out with a spoon.  Now you will need to dry it out.  Heat it in an iron
pot until it all turns a nice light red.
    The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings.  You can either
file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at you
local hardware shop.  (If you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure
aluminum.  It is called duralumin)  That's almost it.  Now, mix together the
rust and aluminum filings.  The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams
of aluminum filings.

That's thermite!
    Now, to light it!  Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the
thermite.  (Either steal it from the chem. lab or buy it at you local
hardware store.  If not, order from a chemical supply house.)  The ribbon
should stick into the thermite like a fuse.  Now you light the magnesium
with a blowtorch.  (Don't worry, the torch is not hot enough to light the
thermite)  When the burning magnesium reaches the thermite, it will light.
When the thermite burns, get the hell back!!!  That stuff can vaporize
carbon steel.  It does wonders on human flesh!

                  \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
                   NOTE:  DO NOT STARE AT THE MAGNESIUM
                    WHEN IT BURNS (IT WILL BLIND YOU).
                  \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/



                         : Electronic Terrorism :
                                    by
                                 King Tut


    It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you.  Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct)
confrontation.  But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your
revenge is already planned.


step 1:  Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.  Once you have
    chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger
    boil.

step 2:  In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit (details
    below.)

step 3:  Plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday morning
    between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am.  Include a calm, suggestive
    note that quietly hints at the possibility of another attack.  Do not
    write it by hand!  an example of an effective note:  "Don't be such an
    jerk, or the next one will take off your hand.  Have a nice day." Notice
    how the calm tone instills fear.  As if written by a homicidal
    psychopath.

step 5:  Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site.  Try
    to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial
    contortions.

step 6:  Sit back and enjoy the fireworks!


    Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit #1.
The parts you'll need are:

 1) 4 aa batteries
 2) 1 9-volt battery
 3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
 4) 1 rocket engine (or smoke bomb or m-80)
 5) 1 solar igniter (any hobby store)
 6) 1 9-volt battery connector


step 1:  Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through th relay's coil.  This
    circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut
    off this circuit.  These contacts should be held together by trapping
    them between the locker, mailbox, or car door.  Once the door is
    opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken,
    allowing the relay to fall to the closed position thus closing the
    ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a look at the schematic
    below.)

step 2: Take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.  wire the
    positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another (serial),
    Until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one
    negative terminal.  Even though the four aa batteries only combine to
    create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the
    solar igniter quickly and effectively.

step 3:  Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to
    the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
    igniter.  Then wire the other prong of the solar igniter back to the
    open position on the relay.

step 4:  Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
    mailbox, or car door.  And last, insert the solar igniter into the
    rocket engine (or smoke bomb or m-80).

    Your kit is now complete!


                         ---------><---------
                         |    (contacts)    |
                         |                  |
                         |                 --- (9  volt)
                         |                  -  (battery)
                         |                 ---
                         |                  |
                         |      (coil)      |
                         ------///////------|
                                 /----------|
                                /           |
                               /            |
                              /             |
                          (switch)--        |
                                   |        |
                                   |       --- (battery)
                                   |        -  ( pack  )
                                   |       ---
                                   |        |
                                   |        |
                                   ---- -----
                                      | |
                                       *
                                (solar igniter)



                           Department Store Fun


    Many of the department stores in my area use a large plastic device
stapled  to the clothing as a security precaution.  Several years ago, an
adventurous friend of mine got ahold of one of these somehow, and we took it
apart.  Inside was a heavy paper strip laminated to aluminum foil (?).  As I
recall, this paper strip was about half an inch wide and 3-1/2 inches long.
When this device got close to a pillar or column at the exits of a store, an
alarm would sound.
    My friend put this paper in his wallet, and we had a lot of fun
wandering in and out of various stores at a local shopping center.  We would
enter when a group of people would enter, or exit with several other
shoppers all together..  When we entered a local Sears in the shopping
center in the main corridor of the indoor mall, a loud bell rang.  A family
with kids was just leaving.  The nearest clerk ran out the entrance to look
at everyone standing around.  A plain clothes security guy appeared out of
nowhere.  Everyone had a good time.  The next store we went in was also
packed with people and the manager (?) got paranoid when the alarm went off.
If you move about discreetly and don't wear a jacket or coat, you can liven
up the busiest of stores.  But don't go into an empty store with one of
these in your wallet.  That's a no-no.


              Presented by the Digital Dimension 714/891-3334
                                     
                                Dial Locks
                            (by Bioc Agent 003)


    Have you ever been in an office or somewhere and wanted to make a free
phone call but some asshole put a lock on the phone to prevent out-going
calls?

    Fret no more phellow phreaks, for every system can be beaten with a
little knowledge!

    There are two ways to beat this obstacle, first pick the lock, I don't
have the time to teach locksmithing so we go to the second method which
takes advantage of telephone electronics.

    To be as simple as possible, when you pick up the phone you complete a
circuit know as a local loop.  When you hang-up you break the circuit.  When
you dial (pulse) it also breaks the circuit but not long enough to hang up!
so you can "push-dial."  To do this you >rapidly< depress the switchhook.
For example, to dial an operator (and then give her the number you want
called) >rapidly< & >evenly< depress the switchhook 10 times.  To dial
634-1268, depress 6 x's pause, then 3 x's, pause, then 4 x's, etc.  It takes
a little practice but you'll get the hang of it.  Try practicing with your
own # so you'll get a busy tone when right.  It'll also work on touch-tone
since a dtmf line will also accept pulse.  Also, never depress the
switchhook for more than a second or it'll hang-up!
 
    Finally, remember that you have just as much right to that phone as the
asshole who put the lock on it!



                              Harmless Terror
                              By: The Prowler
                                     
                              The Speak Easy
                              (818) 905-6262


    To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victems
but only terror.

    These are weapons that should be used from high places.

1) The flour bomb.
   Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in
   the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it
   together. When thrown it will fly well but when it hits, it covers
   the victim with the flower or causes a big puff of flour which will
   put the victim in terror since as far as they are concerned, some
   strange white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of
   terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a bag of
   flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people
   flee in panic.

2) Smoke bomb projectile.
   All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a
   wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the
   terror since they think it will blow up!

3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
   take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in the
   top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm place for about a
   week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell
   when they hit.

4) Glow in the dark terror.
   Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the
   stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim,
   they think it's some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so
   they run in total panic. This works especially well with flower
   bombs since a gummy, glowing substance gets all over the victim.

5) Fizzling panic.
   Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make
   sure there is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and
   you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic
   bag and fill it with vinegar and seal it. When thrown, the two
   substances will mix and cause a violently bubbling substance to go
   all over the victim.



                           VENDING MACHINE KEYS

                               By Quasimoto



    This worked for a friend of mine at school (I would) never do anything
like this) it got him over $900 in one day.  Here's how to do it:

    On almost all vending machines they have those damn round almost
unpickable locks on them so:

    When no one is looking quickly press a piece of AIR-HARDENING clay into
the lock.  (Press hard enough to get a good impression.)

    Remove the clay carefully and let it dry for however long the clay has
to dry as specified on the package.

    You now have a key to fit that lock, (this Type of 'key' can be easily
crushed if you're seen.  But if you're smart you won't though)

Have Phun!!



