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                  | Renegade Legion's Masterkeying File |         
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                          Written By: The Gypsy                   
                          From: Eastern Renegade Legion        
[Originally Written: Summer 1988]  NOTE: During February and
March of 1991, I re-verified the information in       this file
of mine.  It still works quite fine; I followed the steps      
that I wrote years ago and came up with the same results - a
working       Master key!  Have fun!     This file will instruct
you on how to build a master key for the type of locks that are
found in many school systems.  These locks are locks that are
generally rented to the students for the school year.  It is a
combination lock on the front, and each has a different
combination that is given to the student with the lock.  On the
back of these locks is a small keyhole.  This keyhole can be
easily mastered.  Also on the back of these locks is a number
that has been imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. 
The types I have encountered and mastered are #53 and #69, both
of which are popular in my school area.    The first step
involved is to get one of these locks.  The best way to get one
is to wait until you see one left unlocked.  Then just take it
and leave.  This is the best way because they just think,
"Damn... I left my lock unlocked and someone stole it"...  If you
go around breaking them off, then the school is wondering what is
going on, even before you begin to master!    Once you have one,
you must next remove the back cover.  This can be done in one of
the following ways:  1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the
place where the keyhole on the back is.  Not in the actual hole
where the key is inserted, but on the side, between the keyhole
piece and the back cover.  Then simply jam upward on the
screwdriver or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!) 
2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the
lock all the way around.  Then, simply pull off the back cover
with a pair of pliers.  Note: the metal housing of the lock is
very firm, and when using the grinder on it, it will become
red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.  3. Bang the
lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!  I
used the 2nd method.     After the back cover is removed, you
then find a thicker second plate.  If you used method #2 then you
can simply use the grinder to grind off the small piece of metal
in the middle of that plate, which holds it on.  (On some
versions of the lock, there may be other pieces of metal from the
main housing holding on that plate, just grind them all off)... 
Once ground off, you must then only use a screwdriver and pry the
second plate off.  If you didn't use the grinder then this is
still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove.  If, when you
finally get it open, pieces of the lock fly all over, don't
worry...  Unless you were planning to put the lock back together,
(yeah, right!) you do not need those parts anymore.      The part
you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver-colored piece that
contains the brass key-hole section inside.  Just get this
part...  It's really all you need.  You should also note the
version number of the lock which is on the back plate (which
you've already taken off)... you will need this number so you
know what type of lock the master key goes to.     Now... the
trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is
getting the little fucking brass piece out of its silver lining. 
The silver part is hard to break apart, and hitting it or prying
it can cause it to be dropped.  The brass piece contains pins
that will fall out very easily.  The best way I have found to
remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping it or
losing the pins is to melt off the silver-like portion. The
complete piece looks something like this:               ___       
      / K \     K represents the keyhole              | K |       
       \_K_/                 |  /___ Piece Mentioned              
   |  \     Below...     The side opposite of the portion which
sticks out the bottom is the part which should be melted.  Use a
blow-torch to melt the portion away.  It will melt at a
temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron. 
Once you have melted the portion away enough so that you could
pull out the brass piece, let it cool.  After it has cooled, pick
up both pieces together (do not remove the brass from the silver
yet!).  Turn both pieces over (keeping the brass piece in the
silver!!) so that the "piece mentioned below" is pointing
upwards.  You will then have the brass portion in one hand below
the silver portion in your other hand...  Carefully remove the
silver portion, making sure no pins fall out of the brass piece. 
The silver piece can then be discarded.  Place a piece of clear
tape around the brass piece to hold the four pins inside.     Now
comes the key forming process.  Go to your local K-Mart or
Wal-Mart and steal a couple of key blanks.  (Unless, of course,
you are a COMPLETELY honest person, just reading this file for
entertainment...  If you are then you may pay for the keys if you
like.)  The key that works the best is model CO-10 made by
CURTIS.  You may or may not later need to file a tiny amount off
the END or SIDES of that key.  Anyways, it is the best key I have
come across that fits.  Now use some form of a file (I suggest
using a grinding-wheel again) and file off about 2-3mm (Yes,
millimeters) from the bottom of the key.  Remove the tape from
your brass piece (be sure the pins are up, so they do not fall
out!!).  Insert the key into the brass piece key-hole.  Push it
in until it sticks out the other end about 1/2 to 1 mm (or
just... "not very far").  Starting at the far end of the key (the
fourth pin) look and see how much of the pin is sticking out of
the brass piece.  Remember approx. that distance and remove the
key.  Take your file and file down on the key a dip in the place
where that pin (4) would line up on the key.  Do NOT file down
too far.  Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how far the pin
is getting closer to even with the brass piece.  When the pin
sticks out none and is also NOT inside the brass piece at all
(i.e. FLUSH), then move on to the next pin doing the same thing. 
If you file down too far then the key is worthless and must be
re-done.  After all four pins have been completed, they should be
perfectly even with the brass piece when the key is in place.  Be
sure to re-tape the pins inside the brass piece.     Finally your
key is complete, try it out on another lock (with the same
version number on the back-plate)...  You may need to move the
key around a little inside of the key-hole to make it work.  If
it does work then turn the key back and forth inside the key-hole
about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key to work better.  If it
doesn't work then try the key in your brass portion again.  If
they are incorrect then try again.  Don't worry, with a little
practice, you'll be able to file out a key in under 5 minutes
with no problem!     Well, that's it!  My school also had
"normal" master locks that they used for other things (Stadium
fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered.  It's done in
just about the same way, so you can experiment.      Just a
warning... be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys.
Also, be sure not to sell them to anyone unless you're sure
they're not gonna give them to everybody else.  I say this
because I was suspended from school for 14 days because the kid
that I worked on the keys with, sold one to another kid.  So once
people found out he was selling them, others wanted one.    He
then had to tell people "no" (so that not everyone in the fuckin'
school would have one!).  One of these persons decided to be an
asshole and narced on us.  That, of course, is what got me
suspended.  The main reason that they came down hard on us is
because selling the keys increased the crime many times over.  If
we had just kept the things to ourselves (what _I_ wanted to do)
then they probably would have just said 'ok... we'll let you off
this time if you agree not to make any more'...  Yeah, right...   
  There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock
after taking it off and using the master key.  This will be
explained in the next file.  That's it for now...  If you need
help, or are successful, or just want to chat about anything -
contact me at the Internet Email address below.            
       
               - The Gypsy   -=[gypsy@silver.lcs.mit.edu]=-
