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                            makeshift
                             ARSENAL
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                           since 1996
                       full text version 1.2
                          author - Lowry
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The content of this file details extremely dangerous and illegal methods of 
making tried and true improvised explosives and weaponry etc. The explosives 
are far from safe, and by doing so your life is at risk.  This file requires 
common sence to understand and if you are lacking in that department you 
should look elsewhere. You hold responsability for your own actions and 
nothing you see on this sight should actually be done for your own sake.
The original location of this file has been deleted time and time again due 
to "unacceptable information" so i decided to use the format of an easy 
download that can be freely distrubuted throughout the world wide web, so 
feel free to take this file or parts of, and add it into your site as long 
as proper credit is given.

This "full text" version obviously contains no pictures, The full version of 
Makeshift Arsenal contains over 60 photos and diagrams with a section 
devoted to before, during and after homemade explosion photo's.. Download 
the full photo version free at http://explosives.com.bi

- --Lowry




Index


1. EXPLOSIVES

1.1 - acetone peroxide
1.2 - expanding fishhook
1.3 - HMTD
1.4 - hydrogen balloons
1.5 - explosive putty
1.6 - matchbox bomb
1.7 - bolt bomb
1.8 - blackpowder
1.9 - permanganate flash
1.10 - rifle primers
1.11 - ammonium nitrate explosives
1.12 - smokeless powder

2. SMOKE BOMBS

2.1 - potassium permanganate + glycerine
2.2 - potassium nitrate + sugar
2.3 - ammonium nitrate + newspaper
2.4 - smokeless powder + PVC solvent
2.5 - ping pong ball + Al foil
2.6 - chlorine granules + antifreeze

3. PRESSURE BOTTLE EXPLOSIONS

3.1 - dry ice
3.2 - chlorine bomb
3.3 - acid + metal
3.4 - baking soda + vinegar

4. ROCKETS

4.1 - shotshell rocket
4.2 - estes skyrocket
4.3 - masking tape rocket
4.4 - matchstick rocket

5. IMPROVISED WEAPONRY

5.1 - rocket launcher
5.2 - matchbox claymore
5.3 - semi-auto sluggun
5.4 - R.C tank
5.5 - spudgun
5.6 - rock-flinger
5.7 - glove gun
5.8 - blow darts
5.9 - shanghai
5.10 - sling shot

6. FUSE/WICK & IGNITION DEVICES

6.1 - salt petre fuse
6.2 - blackpowder fuse
6.3 - electric ignition
6.4 - party poppers
6.5 - insence sticks
6.6 - bought fuse
6.7 - sparklers

7. INCENDIARYS

7.1 - napalm
7.2 - thermite
7.3 - shotshell tracer
7.4 - chlorine firebomb
7.5 - petrol bomb
7.6 - naphthalene

8. FUN THINGS TO MAKE AT SCHOOL

8.1 - blow darts
8.2 - spitball launcher / exploding pen
8.3 - pen crossbow

9. KILLING YOUR NEIGHBOURS CAT

9.1 - aspirin
9.2 - snare
9.3 - mouse trap variations
9.4 - explosive trap
9.5 - steel traps
9.6 - cat products / taking the trophy

10. EASY TRICKS AND TECHNIQUES

10.1 - things that explode in fires
10.2 - making a bang with a match head
10.3 - sparkler in a bottle






1. EXPLOSIVES


1.1 - ACETONE PEROXIDE
(tricycloacetone peroxide)

1. Go to the bank and take $20 out
2. Head to the nearest chemist/pharmacy, go up to the counter and ask for 6% 
peroxide, the person will take you to where it is, buy as much as wanted - 
$1.50 per 100ml. NOTE- all $ are Australian.
3. next get back into your car and go to the hardware store (BBC, Mitre10 
etc.), here you ask for acetone, they will get it for you - $7.50 for 750ml.
Hydrochloric acid will also be here, you may get it here or go to another 
hardware store , just ask for hydrochloric acid - $7 for 2.5 litres of 30% 
HCl.
4. You now have all the chemicals needed. How easy was that.
Below shows the necessary chemicals. Note the two bottles to the right and 
the layer of crystals on the bottom, this is 15hrs into the reaction.
5. Go home and find a large glass jar to mix the chemicals.
6. pour 200ml peroxide into glass, to this add 150ml of acetone than 50ml 
hydrochloric acid.
7. Stir these mixed chemicals for 2mins than put into the fridge, leave for 
a good 3 days.
8. After 3 days all the crystals of A.P should have formed out of the 
mixture and formed a thick layer of white crystals in the bottom of the jar.
9. Now is time to filter the crystals out of the solution, do this by 
folding a single piece of newspaper in half diagonally then in half again , 
place this in the mouth of a large jar and pour the mix in and let filter.
10. Once filtered you should have a substantial quantity of crystals in the 
bottom of the paper. These dried crystals at this point are extremely 
dangerous, they are friction, heat and shock sensitive, you will now need to 
be careful to avoid any of these.


Characteristics

NOTE - The below information on acetone peroxide is not original to this 
file and was taken from a questionable source.

There are two forms of acetone peroxide: A dimer and a trimer. Both are
high explosives and both are dangerous to handle. The trimer has about 80%
the power of TNT.
A quantity the size of a pea in contact with a flame will burn 
instantaneously with a small 'pop'
and producing a fireball.
AP has been responsible for an alarming number of maiming due to
it's friction sensitivity and high power. It is relatively benign when 
unconfined, but any sign of confinement will ensure that ignition will 
rapidly give rise to detonation.

Dimer Form  :
Acetonediperoxide, Dimeric Acetone-peroxide, Acetonedimer Peroxide
Cyclodiacetone Peroxide or Dicycloacetone Peroxide.

Trimer Form  :
Acetonetriperoxide, Trimeric Acetoneperoxide, Acetonetrimer Peroxide
Cyclotriacetone Peroxide or Tricycloacetone Peroxide.

Formula : C6H12O4
Brisance by sand test - 30.1 g sand crushed when 0.4 grams was initiated
by 0.2 grams mercury fulminate (48 grams crushed by 0.4 grams TNT).
Impact sensitivity is 3" with 2kg weight (30" for TNT).
Volatility 66.4% lost at room temperature after 14 days - complete 
volatilisation in 3 hours at
75 degrees C.

Both forms are heat, impact and friction sensitive.
  For the trimeric form,
Brissance - Phillips - 0.4 g initiated with 0.2 g Mercury fulminate crushed
34.1 g (48.0 g - TNT).
Volatility - complete loss after 40 days at 50 degrees C.
Detonation velocity 5290 m/sec in 6.3mm diameter column - density 1.2, 3065 
m/sec in 15mm dia column - density 0.68.
Friction sensitivity - extreme.
Impact sensitivity - 4" with 500 gram weight.
Initiation capability - 0.05 grams compressed at 250kg/cm2 initiated PETN.
Minimum charge to initiate TNT at density of 1.35 was 0.16 grams.
Power, a 10 gram sample gave 250 cc expansion in Trauzl Test (285 cc for 
TNT).


1.2 - EXPANDING FISH HOOK

A sure way to make your next fishing trip more exciting is to make some 
exploding fishhooks. It i also quite simple if you have the materials.
NEEDED - large cartridge case, primary explosive, party popper, epoxy, 
silicone sealer, hook, line & sinker.
STEPS -
1. Knock the primer out of the case.
2. Take explosive out of party popper and thread the string through the 
flashhole, so that the explosive end is inside the case.
3. Tie hook to string and seal indent where primer was with the sealer.
4. The case is now filled with explosive (peroxides work well, gunpowder is 
not enough).
5. A sinker with line attached is pushed into the neck of the case and neck 
is filled with epoxy.

Now that its made the rest is simple. Tie it to the end of your line, bait 
up and cast in, now just wait for the
......THUMP.....bubbles......upside down fish.



1.3 - HMTD
(hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine)

This explosive is very simular to acetone peroxide, perhaps a little less 
sensitive, however is very sensitive to contaminants and must be thougherly 
washed before being used. If the contaminants are left in the material even 
slight increases in heat will be ample for detonation, this means even 
putting it out into the sun is dangerous. It is also harder to make than A.P 
and if the correct mixture of the 3 components are not added right no 
explosive will form, therefore i cannot guarantee the mixture below will 
work, trial and error will have to be used to obtain the optimal quantities 
of each chemical in the solution as i havnt been able to successfully 
replicate it every time.

The 3 chemicals needed are 6% Hydrogen peroxide, Hexamine and Hydrochloric 
acid. Peroxide is available at pharmacys ($1.50 per 100ml), Hexamine at 
camping stores ($3 for 8 tablets) and 30% HCl at hardware stores ($7  for 
2.5 litres).  In a large glass jar add 100ml peroxide and 3 teaspoons of 
crushed hexamine, stir until disolved and leave for 30min., now add 30ml of 
HCl stir and sit in fridge overnight.
A considerable amount of fine white crystals should form out which are 
filtered, washed and dried in the same fashion as acetone peroxide.
DETONATION VELOCITY = 4511 m/sec @ 0.88 g/cc ,  5100 m/sec @ 1.1g/c




1.4 - HYDROGEN BALLOONS

Hydrogen is a very easily made, explosive gas. It also happens to be the 
lightest element, therefore by using the method below it is possible to fill 
a balloon with hydrogen which will float up into the air and explode when 
ignited.

Take two bottles, one glass the other plastic, drill a hole through the lid 
of the glass bottle and fix and seal a plastic tube, run the plastic tube 
low through the side of the plastic bottle and seal with epoxy.   The glass 
bottle contains the reaction between aluminium and sodium hydroxide 
(commonly sold as Caustic Soda in supermarkets $3.50 for 500 grams), It is 
also possible to substatute sodium hydroxide for diluted hydrohloric acid. 
This reaction produces hydrogen, which runs through the tube, into the 
plastic bottle that is filled with water, the hydrogen gas bubbles through 
the water and fills a balloon that  is pulled over the neck of the plastic 
bottle.

The second bottle full of water is used to condense any vapour that is with 
the hydrogen. It is possible to do without it however the vapour will 
condense in the balloon rendering it less boyant. By using the second bottle 
you also have the advantage of being able to keep adding aluminium without 
the balloon going down.
Once balloon is full, remove and tie. The balloon must be reliably ignited 
or you will get a dud blast, ive found it best to run blackpowder up the 
sticky side of masking tape, stick to side of balloon than attach the fuse 
to the tape.
If youve done it all right these create a fireball, smoke cloud and a 
supriseingly loud, deep BOOM high up in the air.


1.5 - AP PUTTY

This explosive putty is made by the combination of two other explosives, 
those being acetone peroxide and double base smokeless powder.
First the smokeless powder is turned into a paste by combining 2 parts 
powder to 3 parts acetone in a sealed glass jar, this is left
for 3 days, you should now be left with a black paste with a viscocity 
slightly thicker than honey.
Pour the required amount of A.P into a bowl than slowly add the paste until 
the mixture has a mouldable density than remove.
This is the explosive and to use just mould into a shape or around whatever, 
insert fuse and let dry (acetone will readily evaporate). when it is rock 
hard simply light fuse and run.

The conversion to the putty explosive is my favorite, due to being very 
simple to purchase and make, able to be detonated via a simple fuse, no 
shrapnel and very powerful. When you see what damage this can cause and 
realise that it is solely from fast moving gas, you can see how effective 
this is.
I cant be sure how the addition of the smokeless powder to the acetone 
peroxide contributes to the explosion however it seems to raise the power. 
This may be from several reasons. It raises the density of the explosive 
resulting in more explosive per given volume. It increases the volume of gas 
produced for as the smokeless powder burns it too generates large volumes of 
gas. And also what i have been using is "double base" powder which is common 
for shotgun and pistol loads, this powder is a mix of
nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine, There is divided opinion between if 
double base powders are able to be detonated as a high explosive however 
this may be another reason for the high power of this putty explosive.



1.6 - MATCHBOX BOMB

Simply made by cutting the striker off the matchbox and sliding it down in 
front of the match heads in the box.
It is slipped back into its cover and heavily bound with masking tape. it 
will explode when hit sharply on either end or chucked fast against a solid 
object.


1.7 - BOLT BOMB

By compressing powdered matchheads between two bolts in a nut, a basic 
impact ignited explosive is made.
By throwing against a hard surface the matchheads will ignite blasting off 
one of the bolts.


1.8 - BLACKPOWDER

Blackpowder is probly the most common explosive to make at home, however 
making good blackpowder is hard and takes a lot of work.
The 3 components of blackpowder are Potassium nitrate ( most pharmacys will 
order this - $15 for 500gm or as a fertilizer coded 13-0-38 - $25 for 25 
kilo), Sulfur (pharmacy, or cheaper at a garden shop) and charcoal (burn 
something, preferably a soft wood). NOTE - all $ are Australian
These are powdered to as finer consistancy as possible and intimately mixed 
in this ratio - 15:2:3. To achieve a reasonably fast burn rate there is the 
CIA method.
The CIA method takes advantage of potassium nitrate's ability to easily 
dissolve in water and its ability to then again recrystalize around the 
charcoal, Forming a somewhat intimate mixture. The CIA method is also known 
as the precipitation method.
To make BP with the CIA method you will need to place your black powder into 
a saucepan than add a
sufficent amount of water to make it into a sludgy mess. Place the saucepan 
on a hotplate and turn the heat onto low. Slowly bring it to a boil, then 
turn off the heat. Don't leave it there to boil away as the KNO3 actually 
evaporates, leaving you with a batch of black powder that won't burn.
Put the mess into a saucepan containing some chilled alcohol. Why do we do 
this?
Well...as everyone who knows the properties of metals will tell you, heating 
a metal up (in this case potassium), then as quickly as possible cooling it 
down (this is called quenching), makes the metal form tiny crystals, and 
tiny is what we want. Once it has cooled down put your BP onto a piece of 
newspaper a few layers thick.
Smear it out so you can get it as thin as possible on the paper. Once you 
are happy that it is nice and thin
(preferably around a 1cm or less) put a piece of newspaper on top, so it has 
paper on both sides, then place it on a piece of wood. Make sure the wood is 
hard as a soft piece of wood will tend to flex and not create as much 
pressure.
Next, put a piece of wood on the other side and clamp both together as hard 
as possible. Leave this sit in a
nice sunny spot for a week.
When you go to collect it, it should be nice and hard. Break this up into 
small
pieces, it should be still damp and when its like this i push it trough a 
mesh the size of a window screen.This gives the powder sharp edges making it 
burn faster.The black powder made from this method is quite limited.
It is usually limited to making blackmatch, priming, and other things that 
don't require a fast burn rate.


1.9 - PERMANGANATE FLASH

The components needed for this explosive are Potassium permanganate 
(pharmacy $3.50 for 50grams), Aluminium powder (Al foil in a coffee 
grinder), and Sulphur (pharmacy, garden shop).
These are ground as fine as possible, seperately, as this mix is friction 
sensitive, and combined in this ratio - 3:2:1 / potassium 
permanganate:aluminium:sulphur
The resulting powder will readily ignite via a fuse and emit a blinding 
white flash, the finer the aluminium the faster the composition will be.


1.10 - RIFLE PRIMERS

The explosive used in rifle primers (most commonly - lead styphnate) 
detonates violently with no confinement. The lead styphnate is also combined 
with various oxidisers & fuels to hotten and lengthen the flame.Watch for 
very old primers as they may contain potassium chlorate based mixtures.
Primers are available at all gun shops and are used to reload cartridges. 
Also available are percussion caps for use on muzzel loading weapons, these 
are larger than rifle primers and contain no anvil, these were most commonly 
loaded with mercury fulminate.
Lead styphnate (a mustard coloured powder) can be extracted from primers by 
soaking the primers in acetone, this disolves the glue. Than pick the anvil 
out with a pin and scrape the wet explosive out and leave to dry. Shotshell 
primers are completely different and are completely enclosed except for an 
inbuilt flashhole thats sealed with a waxy substance, i cannot see a safe 
way of extracting the explosive from shotshell primers.
Small rifle primers also make excellent explosive ammunition for slug guns. 
The small primers are an exact fit for the .177cal bore and if shot against 
anything hard they will detonate loudly. Although i havnt tried small pistol 
primers out of a slug gun, they may be better than the rifle primers because 
of the thinner "cup" to increase sensitivity to the firing pin which may 
give detonation on softer targets.
These primers can also be added to small pipe bombs for added power. Just 
fill the pipe with primers, than add powder into all the gaps. Pipe bombs 
made this way are considerably more powerful and blast out a lot of shrapnel 
from the used primer cup and anvils.
LEAD STYPHNATE - Det velocity = 5200 m/sec.
MERCURY FULMINATE - Det velocity = 5400 m/sec.



1.11 - AMMONIUM NITRATE EXPLOSIVES

Ammonium nitrate is a common chemical that can be used to form very easily 
made and powerful high and low explosives.
Ammonium nitrate can be accessed at farm supply stores and bulk fertilizer 
dealers, a pure AN fertilizer is available in Australia under the name of 
"Nitram" and it is also sold at farm supply in the blasting grade called 
"nitropril". Only use pure AN for all explosives.
AN as an explosive component has one major drawback, it is very hygroscopic, 
meaning that it will attract and absorb moisture from the air desensitising 
or destroying the explosive. This of course is overcome by containing the AN 
and finished explosive in an airtight container.

Ammonpulver
Ammonpulver is a German name given to a low explosive fuel oxidiser mix 
containing solely ammonium nitrate and charcoal, this composition contains 
an enourmous amount of energy for a simple physical mix with power close to 
that of double base powder containing a considerable amount of 
nitroglycerine. However even though it contains the energy, its burn rate is 
slow and therefore is not suitable for bursting explosives.
Possible uses for this explosive are big bore gun propelant and rocket fuel. 
It has advantages over blackpowder in this role because of the increased 
energy, flashless and emits only a small amount of blueish smoke.
To make this composition -
finely powder ammonium nitrate and willow charcoal to as finer consistancy 
as possible (finer the faster and more efficient) and mix to a ratio of 8 
parts AN to 2 parts charcoal.
Once thougherly mixed add methylated spirits until it clings together like 
thick mud.
strain this paste between two flat surfaces and leave to dry.. If your in 
the colder wetter months of the year dont bother as it will never dry.
Once hard break it up into small granules and its ready to use.

ANFO
ANFO is the most commonly used commercial and agricultural explosive as it 
is cheap and does a good job, this is the explosive farmers use to blow 
stumps out of the ground and mines also use it on mass. ANFO is the perfect 
earth mover with great heaving power brough about by a lot of effective 
energy and relatively low detonation velocity.
ANFO (ammonium nitrate fuel oil) can be manufactured by mixing 17 parts 
prilled AN with 1 part diesel and left one hour to let it soak in, it is 
than ready to use.
ANFO reaches its maximum effective energy at approx. 5.5% diesel remainder 
prilled AN.
It is sensitive to detonation from 2% to 12% at which point the prills are 
saturated and will not hold anymore oil.
The Det velocity is dependant on the density of the loading and the 
confinement of the charge but typically detonates within the range of 3000 
to 4500 m/sec. The denser and more confined the higher the DV, it will have 
a density of approx. 0.8g/cc in the prilled form.
Properly mixed anfo will detonate to 50 grams of high explosive.

ANNM
ANNM (ammonium nitrate nitromethane) is a very powerful and sensitive binary 
explosive that holds more power and is more brisant than any commonly 
available commercial explosive (with the exception of PETN in detonators and 
det. cord).
To make ANNM 1 part pure nitromethane is added to 5 parts powdered AN and 
left 1 hr to soak in, in sealed container.
This explosive is very sensitive and ive never failed to detonate it using 
either of the peroxide explosives, to guarantee initiation a matchbox full 
of the explosive putty should be used however you could probably get by with 
half this amount.

ANNM plastique
This is a very useful explosive containing the same qualities as strait ANNM 
but in a plastic mouldable form.
To make first add 1 part smokeless powder to 2 parts nitromethane in a 
sealed glass container, the nitromethane being a powerful solvent will break 
down the nitrocellulose and you will be left with a black sticky substance 
that will act like jelly.
Now finely powder AN and add 1 part of this "jelly" to 3 parts AN and knead 
together with gloved hands (I got some terrific headaches after playing with 
this stuff, not sure what was the cause of it however nitro compounds such 
as nitromethane and nitroglycerine (from double based powder) are known to 
cause it in which case the nitroglycerine may have seperated and was 
absorbed into my skin or too many nitromethane fumes, so i suggest gloves 
and gas mask)..


1.12 - SMOKELESS POWDER

Smokeless powder is a nitrocellulose based propellant that is now the 
universal propellant used in most modern cartridges (you know, the things 
guns run on, "bullets" you may say).
It is possible to make nitrocellulose, however it involves the mixing of 
sulphuric acid, nitric acid and cotton, ive never done it so im not going to 
attempt to explain it to you. However its not that hard to obtain, you can 
buy it by the kilogram at gun shops for the purpose of reloading ammunition 
or simply empty a few cartridges, this assumes you know someone with a 
firearms licence or have one yourself, as gunpowder is not sold to just 
anyone.
Theres an enormous amount of types and brands of smokeless powder all with 
different burn characteristics, one thing they do have in common is that the 
burn rate increases with confinement, that means if you light a pile up out 
in the open it will burn slowly with a large orange flame but confined its 
burn rate increases considerably.
SP comes in two common forms, that is single base which contain strait 
nitrocellulose and other various nonenergetic additives, the other, double 
base which contains nitrocellulose colloided with varying amounts of 
nitroglycerine. These two types can then be divided up into grain types 
which are commonly flake, disc, tubular and ball, flake will commonly be the 
fastest and is primarily used in shotshells and other compressed powder 
rounds.
Examples of single base propellant are - win 760, AR2213, IMR 4198
Examples of double base propellant are - Hercules bullseye (fastest SP with 
highest NG content available), green-dot, red-dot and win 500HS.
One very interesting characteristic of double based powders is their ability 
to detonate as a high explosive. That means, if excited by a detonator the 
powder will dramatically increase. (look at "before,during & after pictures" 
for the test i conducted to come to this conclusion).




2. SMOKE BOMBS


It is very simple to make effective homemade smokebombs. All the methods 
below produce thick cloads of smoke with little to no flame.

2.1 - POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE

Mix a 1:2 ratio of potasium permanganate and glycerine in a matchbox, shut 
the box and shake. The delay will depend on the temperature of the day and 
grain size of the P.P crystals, the hotter the day and smaller the crystals 
the shorter the delay. after the delay the box will fizz and emit a cloud of 
white smoke.

2.2 - POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR

Mix equal parts potassium nitrate and sugar in a metal or glass bowl, this 
is than carefully melted over a hot plate. This molten mix is poured into 
the container (ive found toilet rolls are a good size) , a fuse is inserted 
and it is left to set. The toffee like mix that you now have is the smoke 
bomb, and is ready for ignition.

2.3 - AMMONIUM NITRATE + NEWSPAPER

Probably the easiest and most effective of the homemade bombs is this one. 
Its become my favourite. All thats needed to do is make a strong solution of 
water and ammonium nitrate, in this soak a newspaper, when saturated take 
out and hang in the sun to dry.
When dry roll up as tightly as possible and tie up with string. the bomb is 
completed.
just ignite the end of the roll of treated newspaper and it will fizz like a 
rocket and blast out thick clouds of white smoke.

2.4 - SMOKELESS POWDER + PVC SOLVENT

In a bowl add some smokeless powder, to this powder add just enough PVC 
sovent/cement to bind the powder together, mould this mix into the shape 
desired and let dry.
This cant be ignited by bare flame or it will simply burst into the flame, 
whats needed is something red hot such as a match that has just been blown 
out or a red hot wire.

2.5 - PINGPONG BALL + ALUMINIUM FOIL

This is probably the easiest to make and quite effective, made by wrapping a 
pingpong ball with foil, fashion a handle out of excess foil and heat over a 
flame.
When it starts to fizz chuck away and either smoke will pour out of it or if 
your unlucky it will burst into flames.

2.6 - CHLORINE GRANULES + ANTIFREEZE

This is another very easily made one, by combining. 2 parts pool chlorine 
with 3 parts antifreeze in an unsealed container a chemical rection will 
take place in around 10 to 15 seconds and produce large volumes of toxic 
white smoke. The size of these bombs can be quite big because of the ease of
aquiring the bulk materials.





3. PRESSURE BOTTLE EXPLOSIONS


The easiest explosive to make in the home would have to be a pressure bottle 
explosion, these bombs use the increase in pressure in a bottle brought 
about by a chemical reaction to burst the container creating a loud boom. 
Common sence plays a large part in the construction of these devices as the 
delays before the explosion can be unreliable. Always test the reaction 
before attempting one of these if its too fast or too slow its too 
dangerous.  Once one of these are set up dont go near the bloody thing until 
it has gone off and if it doesnt seem to be working youll have to shoot it 
or something, again USE COMMON SENCE.
Shown here are the easiest of this form of bomb.

3.1 - DRY ICE + WATER

Simply put, a plastic bottle is 1/5 filled with dry ice (solid CO2)  water 
is added, than quickly the cap is replaced on the bottle.
The dry ice will melt releasing carbon dioxide which will pressurise the 
bottle until it bursts. The delay depends greatly upon the size of the 
chunks of ice and the temp. of the water, the smaller the parts of ice and 
hotter the water the faster the reaction and shorter the delay.

3.2 - CHLORINE BOMB

The popular chlorine bomb uses the reaction between pool chlorine granules 
(65% calsium hypochlorite) and one of various other reactive chemicals, 
these can be - antifreeze/glycerine  (lot of smoke), brake fluid (flame), 
hexamine/sulphur (long delay), thats all ive tried but im sure theres a lot 
more. To use, a bottle is filled 1/6 way with chlorine than the other 
chemical is added, cap replaced than get away from it.

3.3 - ACID + METAL

This uses the reaction between an acid and a reactive metal. The easiest 
would have to be hydrochloric acid and aluminium. The acid may have to be 
diluted with water if the reaction is too quick. The bottle is 1/6th filled 
with acid than the required amount of aluminium is added, cap screwed on and 
run. The reaction produces hydrogen which fills and bursts the bottle (for a 
use of this explosive gas see hydrogen balloons.

3.4 - BAKING SODA + VINEGAR

The reaction between baking soda and vinegar is far too fast to be used in 
the same fashion as the other methods on this page. using a 1 foot x 6 inch 
pvc pipe, glue on an end cap and use a screw cap for the other end. fill the 
pipe 2/3 with baking soda. fill an open toped tin with vinegar and sit onto 
the baking soda, now screw cap back on being VERY carful.
This device must be set up and knocked over when it is intended to go off, 
you decide how this is done.





4. ROCKETS



4.1 - SHOTSHELL ROCKET

If the you have access to the components this is quite an easy rocket to 
make in the home.
The casing is made from a deprimed shotshell case, preferably of the "high 
brass" type. The propellant is simply a mix of 1 part blackpowder to 4 parts 
smokeless powder, these powders are finely powdered than dampened with 
acetone. the rubbery mass is than pressed into a shotshell wad (easily 
bought for reloading purposes) and left in the sun to dry.
When dry you will have a solid block of powerful propellant that provides 
more thrust and power than any commercial blackpowder based rocket.
Next take a spent shotshell and knock the primer out. The hole left will act 
as a nozel for the rocket. Epoxy is than smeared onto the side of the wad, 
the wad full of propellant is can now be pushed down backwards into the 
shell, epoxy is than added to the top of the wad and tissue is rammed into 
the remainder of the shell and sealed shut with masking tape.
A 40-50cm piece of cane is taped to the side of the shell, the nozel is 
filled with blackpowder to ignite the propellant and a fuse is taped to the 
powder, and the rocket is complete.
To use - the cane is pushed loosly into the ground and fuse is ignited.. The 
rocket is remarkably fast and reaches a great altitude, most of the time you 
wont be able to keep your eye on it.


4.2 - ESTES SKYROCKET

Estes rocket engines can be bought at most hobby shops, although expensive 
($5+ per shot) they can be used to make an impressive skyrocket. This rocket 
takes advantage of the ejection charge in the engine, this charge detonates 
at the maximum altitude of the rocket and ignites the main charge of 
blackpowder and stars.  These stars are most easily made from smokeless 
powder and blackpowder binded with acetone. Pure nitrocellulose stars can be 
used to give soft orange fireballs however they have a habit of being blown 
out, by adding a bit of powdered blackpowder the stars will be a more 
intense white colour with a lot less chance of going out.

making this rocket is as simple as fixing the engine into a cardboard tube, 
taping a long cane to the side and filling the tube with a mix of the stars 
mentioned above and blackpowder to burst the container..


4.3 - MASKING TAPE ROCKET

On some inch wide masking tape run a line of a fast smokeless powder strait 
down the middle, than fold in half widthways and roll up into a straw shape. 
Now bind the length with 1-2 layers of masking tape making sure one end is 
sealed and the other open.
To stabalise this rocket a feather is taped to the open end.
Its easiest to launch this rocket out of a tube, simply place in a tube and 
hit the oped end with a lit match, these are good for about 50 metres at the 
best of times.


4.4 - MATCH ROCKET

For a dead easy little rocket to launch around these have to be the easiest. 
Take two matches and a piece of tin foil 1.5" x 2". lay the matches onto the 
foil end to end so that the head of one match is against the bottom of the 
other. now roll the foil around the matches.
Once done make sure the match with the head poking out is a sliding fit 
within the foil and the other isnt.
To fire, stick the matchead into the ground at a 45 degree angle and head 
the foil around the bulge with another match.



5. IMPROVISED WEAPONRY


5.1 - ROCKET LAUNCHER

This weapon is possibly the most impressive and most dangerous to use on 
this page. Although basic in design it utilizes simply found materials to 
make a devastating weapon.
The launcher itself is simply an aluminium pipe, partially blocked at one 
end leaving a 1/3 inch pipe out the back for the wire.  make a hollow 
handle, within this handle is a 9v battery and a push button switch. a wire 
runs frow the battery, through the switch and around to the back of the 
launcher then through the 1/3 inch pipe. The electrical wire connects to a 
rocket igniter and estes rocket engine.

The blockage at the back end is vital, as the bought rocket engines are 
designed for vertical flight the initial thrust is not powerful enough to 
quickly gain the velocity needed for horizontal flight, and will simply 
plough into the ground after a few metres. However with the back end 
partially blocked the gas from the rocket engine will pressurise the tube as 
the rocket is launched in the same fashion as a bullet fired from a rifle 
giving the rocket a far flatter trajectory.

The rocket is powered by a bought estes D class engine, these can be found 
in most hobby shops however are rather expensive at around $7-8 Australian 
per shot, trying to improvise a homemade rocket engine only increases the 
already high risk of an accident.
The rocket is detonated from the ejection charge in the rocket at a set 
distance, this is the safest and most reliable way.

The rockets body is made from thin aluminium tubing (again available at 
hobby shops), The rocket engines ejection charge is drilled into (clay on 
top of engine) until you hit the black stuff (blackpowder). The engine is 
than glued with araldite or equivalent into the Al pipe, the pipe is filled 
with the explosive charge eg. blackpowder and nose cone fitted.
To stabalize the rocket you can do two things that I know of , they are add 
fins or add spin to the rocket. The method below to some extent does both.
  The fins are cut from a flexable plastic ( I used the cover off a ring 
binder) and glued with a strong epoxy to the sides of the rocket. when the 
rocket is pushed into the launcher the fins are folded around the body of 
the rocket.


5.2 - MATCHBOX CLAYMORE

A minature claymore mine ... or to be politically correct a minature 
claymore command detonated anti personel fragmentation device due to mines 
now being banned, can be made around the basic explosive being the explosive 
putty for the method of making this explosive see the "explosives" section.
First the explosive putty is moulded in a matchbox so you left with a rock 
hard block of the explosive, another matchbox is filled with a mix of 
nitrocellulose paste (smokeless powder disolved in acetone) and BB's (these 
can be bought at gun stores for use in BB guns, no licence is required)  use 
just enough of this paste to bind the BB's together. If the not so 
politically correct tripwire version is wanted a small centrefire rifle case 
(no wider than a .222 Rem. case) with explosive out of party popper
inserted through flashhole is pushed right throught the centre of the block 
of BB's so that the explosive will ignite when the string is pulled. If an 
electrically detonated device is wanted simply push a rocket igniter into 
the explosive putty as its drying.  Once this mix is dried smear some 
nitrocellulose paste on the surface of one side of the block of explosive 
and stick the block of BB's to it. It can than be glued to a steel plate in 
the same fashion.
This device contains approx. 300 BB's in front of around 20 grams of 
explosive. As a matter of interest proper claymores contain 700 steel balls 
in front of 700 grams of C4.
