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- P.I.S.S. Philez Number 31 =
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-   Jamming Police Radar    =
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-     by AT2Screech 	    =
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[You may notice that this is part of a .zip file.  Duh.  It contains a
graphic for the frequencies the infrared uses.  He wrote a section
that goes with it...and here goes.  -Def]

And Now Jamming Police Radar

NOTES: 1.    This is all theory.  No, really.  Honest.  I Know nothing
about what I am talking about, I just sat down with my eyes closed and
banged on the keyboard and this is what was on the screen when I looked
up.
2.  Yes, this is illegal.
3.  I am not responsible for what happens to you if you try it.
4.  The person you got this phile isn’t responsible either.
5.  These read like refrigerator instructions, don’t they.
	
Police radars function off of three primary methods of operation, Laser,
IR (Infra-Red,) and Microwave guns.  We’re going to concentrate on the
latter two since there is nothing really you can do about the first one
since it’s a serious pain in the ass to defeat.  The best piece of advice
that I can offer before you get started experimenting is that you can
outrun a car, but you’ll never outrun a radio.  Outrunning radios is an
entirely different text.  Yes I realize the radar part of the text is
sadly lacking in information at the moment.


IR Speed Detection

BASICS:  These come in two forms, the gun and forward/rearward hard
mounted systems, both are EXTREMELY easy to defeat.  What they do is send
a large burst of far infra-red energy and wait for the pulse to be
reflected back and then read the Doppler shift between the sent and
received pulses.  The difference is integrated internally and then passed
to the display where whammo! Officer Bob now knows that you’re driving 85
and probably should be either pulled over and arrested or pulled over and
arrested.  

WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT: Since these things are looking for a specific
frequency of IR all you have to do is flood the surrounding area with IR
energy.  The detector circuitry is looking for a specific pulse in a
specific timeframe with a very narrow set of characteristics, (either a
sine or square wave, nS/mS duration pulse, the actual signal type/length
is dependant on model and manufacturer,) so the idea here is to clutter
the ever living hell out of the general area with IR energy of all sorts.
 This is the equivalent of you standing in an empty room and playing
Marco Polo with someone, and playing the same game at a Front Line
Assembly concert.  Yes, you can hear all sorts of rather lovely
industrial tunage but chances are you aren’t going to hear that little
&quot;Polo&quot; you’re looking for.  

HOW TO DO IT: IR sources can be obtained from most scientific supply
warehouses, some of them have some fairly severe power requirements so
watch what you buy.  This is for the more power hungry sort, remember to
build wisely and use slack in your designs.

1.  Obtain IR source and documentation, it should at a minimum cover the
Far and part of the Middle portion of the IR spectrum.  Obtain a copy of
the EM spectrum from a science book.
2.  Construct a power/isolation circuit tailored to you particular
source.  This should accept the voltage from your alternator and
boost/convert/obfuscate the voltage/amperage to a point where it is
usable by whatever it is you’re using.  NOTE: Use LOW GAUGE, (thick, very
thick,) wire for this, the best stuff is the kind used to wire high
amperage stereo systems together.
3.  Build a small temperature isolated encasement.  This can either be
done with ceramic or with metal.  It should be vented via baffles, (or a
high output fan for advanced folks,) on the sides and about three inches
of the source should stick above the top rim.  The best kind are
cylinders which shed heat more evenly than boxes and don’t have any sharp
corners to concentrate heat at.
4.  Obtain a IR transparent glass dome to place over the top of the
exposed source, high temp stuff again.  Pyrex works nicely but be careful
not to drive around with it on all day.
5.  It should wind up looking like a bullet with the emitter dome at the
top.
6.  Mount on car, below line of sight from inside the car but facing
forward.  These things can be mounted in whatever direction you are
expecting to encounter cops, I personally would mount it on the front,
statistically speaking.
7.  Wire on/off switch to dashboard.

WARNINGS: Some IR sources put out a shitload of heat, IR energy and use
vast quantities of electricity.  They take anywhere from 2 seconds to 4
minutes to warm up and start doing their job.  Avoid staring at them,
(just don’t look at them period while operating,) and DO NOT touch them
or you WILL burn the hell out of yourself.  Use is recommended in
situations where you need to go and go fast for a short period of time,
use a digital timer to keep track of how long this thing has been on. 
Operating this thing will also turn you into a giant IR target so running
from cops with FLIR, (heat sensing,) systems on their helicopters is out
of the question.

RANGE: Limited to type of IR source.  Some military grade sources can
pump out a 500 yard sphere of IR and require some high end engineering to
get to work with a car’s electrical system.  You should figure out what
you’re going to use it for and since IR guns have LIMITED range stick to
about 150-200 feet.

TESTING: Try it on an actual IR system if possible, if not try on one of
the speed boxes they put out to tell you how fast you’re going.  You can
identify an IR emitter by the fact that they have red or maroon glass on
the front, (emitter end,) of them.  The most common faults you are going
to run into are incorrect power supply or a dead source if you have been
using it for a long time, read the information that came with your
particular source for duty cycle, (maximum period of time on before it
needs a break,) data.

ALTERNATE POSSIBILITIES: &quot;Acquire&quot; a large spotlight from your local
radio shack, (the cigarette lighter powered sort,) and an IR filter. 
This should be a large piece of red colored glass that you can get either
through science supply warehouses, at a nearby military/civilian
electronics warehouse, or through your local militia.  Mount glass to the
front of the spotlight and you now have a line-of-sight type device that
you can whip out and point at things.  Another method would be just to
reconfigure a clear box used in the manipulation of street signals.

FOR THE ADVANCED FOLKS: Use an oscilliscope and a IR detector and figure
out if your locals are using pulse train IR guns.  I do not know for sure
if these exist but I have heard rumors, if they are E-MAIL ME AND TELL ME
ABOUT IT WITH AN ACCOMPANYING ANALYSIS.  If  this is true, well, you’re
going to have to figure out how to emulate a pulse train.  Suggestion
would be to use a spinning wheel with breaks in it to allow IR out at
specified intervals.  I have yet to encounter such a system in use but if
you do, I would like to hear about it.


Microwave or &quot;Radar&quot; Detection

BASICS: These work off of the same essential idea as IR guns with a
couple of major differences.  First off, instead of just sending a
vanilla pulse of energy out and looking at what comes back and the
difference between the two, Radar guns send out modulated pulses.  The
trick here is to get the modulation down such that you can emulate it,
this takes a bit of doing but is not impossible.  Secondly, radar guns
operate at the GHz range, (gigahertz,) which means that if you’re not
careful with them you can wind up sterile or giving yourself RF, (radio
frequency,) burns.  Anyone not familiar with RF burns READ THIS NOW, what
happens is you cook yourself, (charcoal is the better word,) from the
inside out, meaning you don’t know it’s happening until your skin melts. 
Yucky shit.  The more persistent folks may read on.  Most police radars
run in the X, Ku, K, and Ka bands, (new designations for these bands if
anyone cares are I, J, and K, copies of the revised government frequency
designation chart ahould have been included in this phile with the text,
yes this is public domain type information) for frequency people that’s
between 8-40 GHz, most of them falling in the Ku and Ka bands.  The radar
gun sends out a modulated square wave signal that bounces off the target
and has it’s wavelength compressed or decompressed by the relative
velocity and direction of travel of the object being clocked, (again,
Doppler rears it’s ugly head.)  Now I could get into a discussion on
Pulse Width and Pulse Repetition Time and their relation to radar systems
but I think I’d wind up putting most everyone to sleep so I’ll just skip
to the good stuff. 

WHAT YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT:  Again, the idea is to overwhelm the receiver
with erroneous input, this is accomplished by constructing, (or borrowing
from an appliance,) a small microwave resonating cavity or microwave
oscillator.  This thing will not only need to be tunable but cover a
fairly wide section of the EM, (electromagnetic,) spectrum in order to
jam the hell out of any radar system, (see the attached diagram most
police radar falls into the X, Ka, and Ku bands,)  you come across.  This
is the VERY illegal part, the FCC says that you cannot, without license
to do so, possess, design or sell any equipment designed to transmit RF
energy more than 500 feet.  Well, that’s about damn right because how
often have you gone bezerk after your radar detector went off and found a
cop sitting right there.  Almost the every time right?  Exactly, that’s
the true beauty here, you aren’t really violating any laws and you can
semi-legally, (don’t quote me on that,) build and operate one of these
without endless legal hassle.

HOW TO DO IT: This is not as easy as I make it look here, you are going
to have to do some SERIOUS investigation into radar theory to get this
down.
1. First you are going to need to find out what kind of radar the local
LEO, (law enforcement officer,) types are using.  Do this by driving
about in a car with a radar detector through all the native speed traps
you can find.  The more the better.
2. Construct a small microwave oscillator.  I am currently authoring a
text on resonant cavities for the beginner so if you are still interested
drop me a line and I can provide this information for you.  The best
start is to obtain either the magnetron from a microwave oven and
reverse-engineer it or to get what is called a &quot;Gunn&quot; diode.  These
things produce microwave RF and can be coupled to a tuned cavity to spit
out GHz RF without a whole lot of trouble.
3. Mount behind plastic grill of vehicle.  THIS IS IMPORTANT!  PLASTIC
ONLY!  Mounting behind a metal grill will scatter 99% of the RF into your
engine compartment and do you absolutely no good at all.  If you’re
running a more powerful resonant cavity then you may even run the risk of
killing your engine’s electrical system.  Well, if you do that then you
won’t have to worry about speeding because YOU ARE NOT GOING ANYWHERE
FAST.  Nyuck.
4. Wire accordingly. You can use Zener diodes wired to a radar detector
to set this device off every time the detector goes bananas.

WARNINGS:  Like I said before, if you are not careful you run a serious
risk of hurting yourself or at the bare minimum irradiating Aunt Flo and
Uncle Roy as you pull out of the driveway.  Well, maybe that’s a good
idea on second thought.  Do these people need to reproduce?  Hmmm…food
for thought.

RANGE: Limited to line of sight. Period.  

TESTING: Tuning cavities and the like is made MUCH easier with RF meters
and RF spectrometers.  These are some fairly heavy pieces of equipment to
come across.  Your best bet is a upper level college or university with a
solid electronics program.  Most radio stations should, (in theory,) have
a meter or two laying around.  If they have the right frequency range is
another matter.  Most of the common problems you are going to run into
are the wrong frequency or harmonics increasing your standing wave ratio,
(SWR,) to a point where you cannot radiate at all.  This text isn’t
detailed enough to the point where I would recommend going out and doing
this on your own, I am still working out the little bits as to how to
construct one of these.  If you know enough and do a touch of research on
your own you can probably figure it out from the ideas I have put forth. 
There will be an addition in the near future hopefully with schematics.

ALTERNATE (AND THOROUGHLY RIDICULOUS) POSSIBILITIES: Since the fall of
communism in good ‘ol Mother Russia, these people have been selling off
all kinds of crazy shit at rock bottom prices, including countermeasures
pods used on Soviet Air Force planes.  (There’s some crazed farmer who
plows his fields with Russian T-72 tanks, sans turret, I think the guy
lives in Colorado.) Here’s the plan: make contact with your neighborhood
Russian mobster, tell him that: &quot;I want to buy a avionics suite for the
Su-35 including the ECM pods.&quot;  Better yet, tell him you want to buy the
whole thing, (the entire plane,) and go ahead and card it, Ivan wont mind
one damn bit that you didn’t pay him.  No really, they’re that desperate
to unload the hardware.  Anyway, go ahead and get your plane, learn to
fly it and when you get good just take that bad boy and strafe the hell
out of any cop cars you see with that lovely little GSh-30 30mm cannon. 
Just a thought.  Of course if you managed to get the thing working you
could blank out any radio communications within a pretty good area, and I
mean everything including cable TV, cell fones, all sorts of crap. 
Enough of that.

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